Whenever I come to a stop and put the bike in neutral, I have to roll it forward to get it back to first.  Is there some adjustments I may be able to make to fix this?  I have just resorted to leaving it in gear at all stops so I don't have to hassel with giving it a roll to get in gear...plus I fear it may not go into gear and that line of cars behind me my become very angry.  Any advice is much appreciated.

I think thats just a normal occurence. That happens to my 2004, and i just double pull the cluth and she pops in.

Same issue over here. Seems normal.

I just give her a quick roll or like stefman722 said, fiddle with the clutch.

JG

I recommend keeping it in gear at stops. I think it's what the MSF suggests, and it makes more sense. I am no mechanic, but I think the wet clutch withstands a lot, so you can ride it, as well as leave it in gear with the clutch in and not harm it. Then you are ready to accelerate at the green light, and you can get out of harm's way if need be. I always downshift while braking and put her in first. If it's a long light (I know a few in the 'Couv and Portland), I may throw it into neutral and put both feet down, but generally it's left in first gear with just the left foot on the pavement.

Good luck,

Dave  

Quote from: 2005-GS500-PDXI recommend keeping it in gear at stops. I think it's what the MSF suggests, and it makes more sense.

+1

You should check your oil level.

I recently had to perform an oil change twice in a matter of weeks because I slightly overfilled, which made 1st and N a serious pain in the neck to operate.

Thanks to all for the advice so far.

Typically I wouldn't put it in neutral at a light.  I like to get up and go quick if I need to.  But, there are times when, at long lights, I would like to give my hand a rest or need two hands to adjust gear or something.  

I will try to re-clutch...not sure why I didn't think of that before, I do that with my car when it doesn't like to get into gear easily.

Has anyone dug a little deeper and found they had something wrong with the transmission or something?

Quote from: vtlionYou should check your oil level.

I recently had to perform an oil change twice in a matter of weeks because I slightly overfilled, which made 1st and N a serious pain in the neck to operate.

I second this... i used to have the worst time shifting to and from neutral, oil changes work wonders, especially since the bikes have wet clutches.  I now change my oil approximately every 1500 miles just cuz.  My gears shift super smooth.  smooth is a funny looking word isn't it?  Anyway, change your oil if you haven't recently.

Its very normal, I have experienced that on every bike I have owned.

Quote from: vfrocketIts very normal, I have experienced that on every bike I have owned.

It hasn't happened on the SV, but it has on the rest.

Oh, and...

http://www.gstwins.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=19062

I have the same issue, but I always stay in first at a stop light.  One of my worst fears is to get rear ended by some dumb A$$ .

Hi all!

I kind of disagree with the hang-on-in-the-first-gear folks...

Every time the clutch is pulled, the tiny plates inside the clutch are meshing against each other - even if the clutch is pulled in all the way. In other words, the clutch plates are grinding themselves at each other.

Yes, there's oil, which will, if it is of decent quality, considerably slow this process. Nonetheless, that's the way multi-plate wet clutches work.

I usually switch to neutral when I get to streetlights 'n other stop-requiring spots - especially if I know that I'll have to wait more than few secs. When I start to decrease speed, I also use the engine to slow me down; often I can hit the N from coming down from 2nd...  then I just slide to stop with brakes - all the time since getting to N I let the clutch go. When the green comes, I just start on with hitting to 1st and so on - the usual works.

When your gearbox works decently (mine does... good oil in sufficient amounts), there really isn't a big problem in getting in the first gear.

But hey... this is MY opinion; it's also MY bike

I also think that everybody should probably do as they feel comfortable and safest to do with their bike.

That is how they taught us to ride in the MSF course.

ps your avatar is spooky...  

Thanks on complimenting my avatar that's actually me goofing around with a colleague some 5 odd years ago...

We don't have MSF here in Finland, although you'll have to get a separate MC licence before you can drive - driver's licences are quite strictly regulated here.

The actual driving how-to I've picked up ever since I got my licence - just figuring out what works for me and how I manage to get about the driving safely & comfortably.

I should've added that I've my left leg on the peg about 95% of the waiting time... that shaves some of the time needed to "get on" if need be.

But as I said before - do as YOU're comfortable and quite often comfortable is what you've been taugth to do. Afterall, the clutch discs can be replaced...

Cheers,

I would think instead of braking with the engine, to use the brakes. (Makes sense) Brake pads are cheaper than fixing the clutch disks.

I know when i took the MSF Saftey Course they tought us to leave the bike in first just in case a jack @$$ wasn't watching and you needed to accelerate away to avoid a rear ending.  I myself leave it in first unless it is a long light, then I will kick it into neutral and rest a little.  As for the problems getting into neutral or first if it doesn't want to go I either fiddle with the clutch or rock forward and she slides right in

Quote from: Budrick320I would think instead of braking with the engine, to use the brakes. (Makes sense) Brake pads are cheaper than fixing the clutch disks.

On the other hand, rotors are definitely NOT cheap....  

Quote from: RoadstergalOh, and...
http://www.gstwins.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=19062

That's a good thread.  I get the clack-a-clack-a-clack-THUNK now and then shifing from N to 1st.  My biggest problem happens when starting out: the choke is pulled all the way, so RPMs are 3500 or so, and I need to shift into 1st to get going.  What I usually do, is reduce to 1/2 choke, and the RPMs drop; then, before the engine can die, I shift to 1st and ride out.  With the RPMs down at 1-2k, there is rarely a clunk shifting to 1st.  Once I'm riding down the street, I reapply full choke (or else the bike will kill at the first stoplight).  

Sounds like maybe my clutch is dragging?  But... if the bike is warmed-up, at a stoplight, I can pull the clutch, and the bike doesn't pull forward at all (no brake needed).

(oh, and yes, it's running lean on cold-start... I'll fix that one of these years).