I have been mountain biking for about 3 years.  I want to start road biking and do the Tour de Tucson next year.  What should I look for in a good road bike that I won't want to change in a year?  

Any advice will be appreciated.

depends on howmuch youre willing to spend, then i can prolly give ya a few ideas

I want a bike so that I can do a century ride.  I would like to keep it from $1,500 - $1,800.  I know that is at the lower end of the good road bikes, but I think it is a good start.  I want something that I can keep at least a couple of years.  Once I decide if I like it, then I can splurge.  What are the pros and cons of Shimano Vs Campagnolo components?  What are pros and cons from Carbon Fiber, Aluminum, Steel, Titanium (out of the question due to my price range)?  

Thanks in advance.

P.S. The roads here aren't the smoothest.

OH oh!  Now we are talking my language.  I am an avid bicyclist, both road and mountain.  Maybe I can help a little bit...

First off, www.roadbikereview.com is a great site.  Most of the people there are riding on $4,000+ bikes though.  It can be tough to get much help on that site unless you are looking to spend in that range.  I'll tell you right off though...$1,500-$1,800 is the perfect price range for a new road rider in my opinion.  Especially someone that rides mountain and knows for sure that they will enjoy riding.  People who are just getting into bicycling should stay under $1,000 if you ask me.  

First...frame materials.  There are all sorts of generalizations out there about frame materials.  You will hear over and over that a carbon frame is lighter and will flex more on rough pavement than an aluminum bike.  These kinds of statements are far too general, as the frame design and specific materials (thickness of tubing, geometry, etc.) will ultimately decide frame weight and rigidity.  Basically, pay more attention to your comfort on the bike.  Fit is absolutely the most important factor, as you are likely to be spending 4 hours or more on the bike in one sitting.  There is nothing worse than a poorly fitting bike after about 2 hours.  Everyone is different, so you must be properly fit on the bike by a professional and find one that works for YOU.  

Next, components.  Campy vs. Shimano is a pretty silly arguement that you will see/hear constantly in the road bike world.  Campagnolo is generally very expensive.  In my opinion there is no real technical/engineering benefit when compared to the upper end Shimano components (Ultegra, Dura-Ace).  Yes, I've ridden both.  Just get yourself into the upper end of either brand and you'll be happy.  My current bike has a Shimano 105 group (high end by no means) and I simply love it.  Extremely reliable components that are (somewhat) lightweight and easy to work on.

Do a little reading on the internet to understand the differences in components, frame materials and what each brand has to offer in your price range.  Don't make up your mind here though, go to a bunch of bike shops and spend some time with the bikes.  Fit them and take a bunch of bikes on a decent test ride (bring a helmet and gloves, clipless pedals if you want).  Any good shop will let you test their bikes, just let them know you are serious about buying.

Sorry for the long response...but this topic ventured into my TRUE passion...go bicycles!

-Danimal

Quote from: jag69I would like to keep it from $1,500 - $1,800.  I know that is at the lower end of the good road bikes, but I think it is a good start.  

choke! cough!

      $1500 - $1800    

choke! cough!

I just bought my wife a bike last Christmas and I thought $200 was stiff.  If I paid that much for a bike it better have a engine or motor on it.

Another thing to consider- Road biking tends to be a bit more expensive than MTB- especially when you get on the higher end.
I've always had a soft spot for a good steel frame. You can still get really nice ones- Mine is an Indipendent Fabrications Crown Jewel with Reynolds 853 Tubing. I love steel because it's a much more forgiving ride, and relatively cheap in comparison. Titanium is also nice, but $$$$.
Componentry- I'm partial to the Shimano Ultegra component gruppo (About the equivalent of Shimano's Deore XT mt. bike group) I think it's the best buy between the components. The Dura Ace stuff is nice- but you're paying for a name IMO.
If you're not looking to spend a ton of $$, definitely look at the big brands (Trek, GT, Cannondale, SPecialized, Giant)- they have good offerings at a great bargain. If you want to go custom, that's a whole 'nother ball game and price range for sure.

Another option is what I like to do- Throw a set of standard (Not Microdrive) gearing on the Mountain bike and some slicks. I do the NY-Boston Aids ride on my mountain bike with slicks every year. I ride a hard-tail, I wouldn't reccomend doing it on a dual suspension bike unless you have a lockout for the rear shock. I like riding the Mounrain bike for the tour rides because it is comfy, and I take my time on those- plus I can keep a decent pace with the intermediate roadies.

Quote from: jag69I would like to keep it from $1,500 - $1,800.  I know that is at the lower end of the good road bikes,

Dear God!  I HOPE IT HAS AN ENGINE THAT BURNS GAS!  Buy another GS and save your legs!    :mrgreen:

Quote from: CasiCUAMine is an Indipendent Fabrications Crown Jewel with Reynolds 853 Tubing.

(insert grovelling "we're not worthy" smiley here)

I own an old Benotto with Reynolds 531 tubing and full Campy.  It is deffinately a fun ride, but I would trade it and my two first children for an IF.

-Danimal

Quote from: Danimal

Quote from: CasiCUAMine is an Indipendent Fabrications Crown Jewel with Reynolds 853 Tubing.

(insert grovelling "we're not worthy" smiley here)

I own an old Benotto with Reynolds 531 tubing and full Campy.  It is deffinately a fun ride, but I would trade it and my two first children for an IF.

-Danimal

There's one here that looks like it could be had for (Relatively) cheap:
http://cgi.ebay.com/INDEPENDENT-FABRICATION-CROWN-JEWEL-IF-STEELMAN-FAT-853_W0QQitemZ7198164300QQcategoryZ98084QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

mmm, road bicycles. 12 years racing as a cat 3 and I've accumulated a few bikes in my time. Sold my vintage Guerciotti track bike, will forever keep my Bianchi road bike (converted to fixed gear) and of course my custom Easton aluminum race bike.

I was just considering the fate of my old trusty Eddie Merckx Motorola replica...what size you looking for? Its got dura ace which was only a year old or less when I stopped riding the bike 3 years ago (had my boy then). classic lugged frame. many miles on it. would let it go for $400 or very negotiable...its a 53cm.

$2000 is a reasonable price point for a new bike and you could probably at least score ultegra on a good bike for that. you want at least ultegra (shimano) or the campag equivalent. look at specialized bikes for some deals. look at coloradocyclist.com for great fitment information too.

the merckx frame ran me $1200 IIRC and the whole bike full retail was in the neighborhood of $3500 (as was my race bike).
 


pablo-

The new version of Ultegra components are sweet 10 speed cassettes, the large brake hoods, action almost as good as Dura-Ace (unlike previous versions).  Much better deal than Dura-Ace, better be a real good rider to need the weight savings with those.

Of course, many bikes with this group are on the high end or over on your price range.  You're probably handy with a wrench, if you're going for 'new', get the frame you want, go for 105's and upgrade as things wear out.

I got me a Specialized Tarmac Expert... CF frame with Ultegra components.  My eyes just about bugged out of my head when I first took it for a lap around the parking lot.  I'm going to enjoy doing century rides and triathlons on that!  My old Schwinn constantly got out of adjustment and well... it was sorta light when I got it 15 years ago, but it's a boat anchor now   I ended up going for the CF Tarmac over the Aluminum Allez since I'm on the tall (and therefore heavier) side.  Gotta keep from getting beat up by bumps on rides

Thanks for all the advice.  I will have to now search an research.  I am sure I will post more questions as my research continues.

Thanks  

I'm not an expert on any of these topics by any means, but I did go through the same experience as you earlier this year.  I was buying a bike to get into road riding, with the intention of training up for a century ride.  I went into it figuring I'd spend somewhere in the $600-800 range (like I did for my perfectly adequate Giant Rainier), but ended up spending $1,500 (on a $2,000 MSRP bike).  I'll just bounce from one topic to the next.

roadbikereview is a good site.  

Fit is the most important thing!  If a shop doesn't spend some time with you, to get a feel for what kind of riding you're going to do, see how you fit on various bike sizes and different models, they're not worth your time.  A $5,000 bike that is uncomfortable because of bad fit is worthless.  

Al vs. CF vs. steel
What Danimal said about materials is correct, there's lots of generalizations about materials that aren't necessarily true.  But, I found when test riding bikes in the $800-$2,000 range, that the generalizations were pretty accurate.  Trek 1200, 2100, a Cervelo or two, a couple Lemonds, a Felt, and a Cannondale.   The aluminum bikes rode the "harshest", then the aluminum with carbon, with the steel & CF Lemonds being the smoothest.  I didn't try out any all CF bikes.  The difference in ride quality between the steel & CF Lemonds and the aluminum bikes was drastic.  I am sure, if you're getting a custom built bike that costs loads of bucks, that they might be able to build an aluminum frame that rides great.  Maybe the real pricey Cannondale's ride great?  Not sure.  

Campy vs. Shimano
It's been said, buy the bike you like, don't worry about the brand of parts.

105 vs. Ultegra vs. Dura Ace
These are comparable to LX, XT, and XTR.  I think pantablo is selling a little high, suggesting that $2,000 and Ultegra is "the least" you'll want.  105 is perfectly good stuff, and well suited to recreational riders.  

Remember to budget cash for spares, a pump, cages, bottles, gear (if you don't have it) etc.  You will easily spend several hundred more on that stuff over the first couple months.  

FWIW, I ended up buying a 2004 Lemond Buenos Aires.  It's one of the Lemond "spine design" bikes, with a frame that's part 853 steel, part CF.  The parts are a mix of 105 (front derailleur, brakes) and Ultegra (shifters, cranks, rear derailleur).  Zero problems with the bike, a joy to ride.  Slightly less aggressive ergos than some other models, and the frame is super smooth.  I needed the big 61 cm size, and the shop had one leftover from last year, so it was heavily discounted.  

So yeah, if you're not really into racing, and you're not a weight weenie, I highly recommend looking at steel bikes.  Lemond & Jamis both make some great ones in your price range.  If possible, go to a shop that carries Trek and Lemond (Lemond is owned or at least manufactured & distributed by Trek) and some steel and AL bikes back to back.  

One last thing, if you're a heavy dude (200+) you need to consider the wheels.  Big dudes are tough on wheels, and a less expensive bike might come with wheels that won't last too long.  I rode all summer with a strong 220-230 lb dude who had a Felt F60, nice bike, but had to get new wheels after 500 miles or so.  Good wheels are very expensive, so if you're hefty it might pay to spend a few hundred dollars more on the bike at the time of purchase if it gets you into a better set of wheels.

jeff

Thanks.  I looked at the Lemond last year.  I currently weigh 170 lbs nekid.  The roads here in Nogales aren't the smoothest.  This is where I would do most of my training for next years Tour de Tucson (Nov 06).  I am nervous and excited for the purchase.  A few friends of mine have suggested a couple of locations in Tucson where I can purchase a bike and get properly fitted.  

Thanks for all the input.  I am sure more questions will come.

Quote from: Jeff P
So yeah, if you're not really into racing, and you're not a weight weenie, I highly recommend looking at steel bikes.  Lemond & Jamis both make some great ones in your price range.  If possible, go to a shop that carries Trek and Lemond (Lemond is owned or at least manufactured & distributed by Trek) and some steel and AL bikes back to back.  

If you're into purple, Klein makes a sweet Al frame with 105 components, the Q-Pro V.  Specialized makes nice bikes, and they put in a lot of anti-vibration tech.  Definitely ride the different frame types, Steel, Al, and if you can get a hold of one, a CF bike.  The Trek lineup this year went all weird with the components, not sure what I'd recommend for them.  I hear their basic CF frames are nearing the end of their design cycle.

Quote from: TurkinaIf you're into purple...

Yeah this is something else I meant to touch on.  If you're down to two bikes, basically the same price and similar bits, and the fit is equally good, buy the one you think looks better.  

My Lemond is butt ugly, the steel parts are silver, the CF is bare, and it's got horrible red, white, and black Lemond logos all over it.  But I bought it to ride, not to hang on my living room wall, so it's fine    I've actually started to appreciate it's ugliness.

jeff

The June issue of Bicycling has a whole bunch of suggestions in your price range. I have been riding seriously since the early 1980's and do club rides and about 3 centuries a year. If I didn't want to spend a lot of money and only a bit more than you are talking about, I would get a Land Shark or Steelman custom steel frame with a Reynolds Ouzo fork and Ultegra components. You should be able to get one of the internet purveyors like Gary Hobbs to put one together for you for around $2300. It is a really great bike that you could ride for 10 years. Either builder will do custom angles if you have a good idea what fits you.

I've had a custom lugged titanium frame with Ultegra componets built by Harry Havnoonian in Philadelphia for about 10 years. It still works well but I am lusting after an Orbea Orca with campy Super Record, which will run about the same as a new GS500F.

Quote from: Jeff P... I think pantablo is selling a little high, suggesting that $2,000 and Ultegra is "the least" you'll want.  105 is perfectly good stuff, and well suited to recreational riders.  

My experience with it (watching my friends with it actually) was that for the slightly more serious rider, such as would be training for the Tour of Tuscon (3-5x a week riding leading up to some long distances), the 105's didnt hold up well. The price difference upgrading to Ultegra isnt as significant as the difference in quality and longevity. thats just my opinion and experience which may not be the standard and is based on what I saw of 105 quality 4-5 years ago. I'm sure its gotten better but so has Ultegra...

Quote from: FinprofThe June issue of Bicycling has a whole bunch of suggestions in your price range.

Bicycling Magazine is for 2 types of people.
1) The people who like drooling over shiny new frames and components
2) The people who actually have the wheelbarrows of cash to buy all those shiny new things that the magazine says you MUST HAVE in order to ride faster...

And how many times can you recycle the same riding and workout tips?

I mean, I just started getting Runner's World, and I know half the stuff they put in there is recycled BS.  Bicycling Mag has like 75% BS  

Though I do love the bamboo frame that was shown an issue or two ago... sweet!