Well i am kinda sick of my handle bars being so high up. is it worth getting bars that are lower? and where can i find some?
I just want my bike to look more of a street bike then a touring bike. let me no thanks.

run a search for clip-ons .

-M

clubman bars are cheap, SM2's are the best out there IMO, you can't go wrong with those...

Heres a vote for SM bars I have them and love it, they make the bike so much more aggressive. They are by far my most favorite mod I've done yet.

my '89 has clip-ons and i love them 

Lower bars are good, because it gets your body weight over the front wheel more for better traction.

Bikemaster Superbike bars are pretty much exact copies of the old K&N Superbike bars, though I haven't actually been able to get my hands on a pair yet to see if the quality is the same. Still, for about $20, they are more aggressive (lower) than the stock bars, and you have the choice of black or chrome, without being as extreme as clip-ons. Call your local shops to see if they have any in stock; less rise and less pullback than the stock bars.

Check this page for details; the Superbike bars are letter "E":

http://store.azmusa.com/knclubhanbla.html

You'll also see Bikemaster Clubman bars (only available in chrome) on that page (the "A" bars); you can see there is a major difference between the two types. I've used Clubman bars previously (never on my GS), and I prefer the Superbike bend for most riding, though if I were to do another trackday, I'd probably switch to the Clubman bend bars...

Quote from: kvgs on March 10, 2006, 10:19:40 AM
Heres a vote for SM bars I have them and love it, they make the bike so much more aggressive. They are by far my most favorite mod I've done yet.

+1

So are those just as easy to install as taking the controls and grips off, removing the old bars, putting the new ones in, and reinstalling the grips and controls? I may have to invest...

And those ones (letter e) are direct replacements for the stock bars on all GSs?

Quote from: Cal Amari on March 10, 2006, 01:35:41 PM
Bikemaster Superbike bars are pretty much exact copies of the old K&N Superbike bars, though I haven't actually been able to get my hands on a pair yet to see if the quality is the same. Still, for about $20, they are more aggressive (lower) than the stock bars, and you have the choice of black or chrome, without being as extreme as clip-ons. Call your local shops to see if they have any in stock; less rise and less pullback than the stock bars.

Check this page for details; the Superbike bars are letter "E":

http://store.azmusa.com/knclubhanbla.html

You'll also see Bikemaster Clubman bars (only available in chrome) on that page (the "A" bars); you can see there is a major difference between the two types. I've used Clubman bars previously (never on my GS), and I prefer the Superbike bend for most riding, though if I were to do another trackday, I'd probably switch to the Clubman bend bars...

Sure, for those that want them.  The stock bar dimensions are 27.5" wide, 3.5" rise and 7.5" sweep (pullback).
Now, I just noticed that the superbike bars are 29" wide, and when I installed the letter "G." Daytona bars (also 29" wide), I had to trim off half an inch off each end (for a 28" width), because the stock cables weren't long enough.  But, the Daytona bars are higher.
The closest to the stock bars are the letter "F." GP Touring bars @ 27.5" wide, 2.5" rise and 6.5" sweep.  Of which, I have bought a set, but have not yet installed.

OK, scratch replied before I could...

As scratch has mentioned, the letter "F" bars ("GP Touring" model) are the ones which most closely match the stock OEM Suzuki bars; hard to tell the difference. The "E" bars ("Superbike" model) are lower, more aggressive, with less pullback, and help put more weight on the front wheel. I consider them the perfect compromise between stock (too upright) and Clubman bars (too much weight on the wrists for street / commuting duties)...

I trimmed the ends of the "E" bars, to make them narrower; I didn't mind the stock length, but wanted my hands just slightly closer together. I used a pipe-cutter to trim 3/4" off each end...

Oh yeah, I want more aggressive. By "direct replacement" I meant do you have to modify anything to get them to fit the stock controls and triples. And other than cutting them, it looks like the answer is "no".

I think Cycle Gear is gonna be a stop of mine as I head home...

Got a pair at Pro Caliber waiting for me. $14, thank you very much.

Vodka, straight up, thank yooooooooou!

Unless, you consider the little plastic location posts for the switchboxes and the holes in the stock bar.  You'll either have to trim off the posts(easier, that's what I did), or drill holes (or slots) in the new bars.

Trimming the posts allows you easier placement of the controls where you want them for ease of comfort and (thumb)reach.

Ok, so there are holes in the stock bars and tabs on the controls that go into these holes?

Question: won't trimming these off make the controls more apt to slip and rotate? And if not, why are they thee to begin with?

Quote from: scratch on March 10, 2006, 04:17:34 PM
Unless, you consider the little plastic location posts for the switchboxes and the holes in the stock bar.  You'll either have to trim off the posts(easier, that's what I did), or drill holes (or slots) in the new bars.

Trimming the posts allows you easier placement of the controls where you want them for ease of comfort and (thumb)reach.

Better to slip and rotate than break (in a crash).  I haven't had mine slip at all.  If you want, wrap some electical tape around the area of the bar that would be where the switchboxes would be.  I didn't use electrical tape, because I've had bad experiences with rust forming under the tape for some reason.

OK, so I stuck them in my backpack and got them home. It looked like I had a mast on my back 

Anyways, I need to cut them first, and then do the install. I read a thread detailing how to remove and reinstall the controls, so do I need anything else? I'll probably get thicker grips, but nothing else. So anything else I need? Anything to get the grips off easier or get the new ones to stay? I read about hairspray on the R6 site, but that wasn't mentioned here.

Dave

To get the grips off (if you want to save them) stick a flat head screw driver underneath them and twirl it about to get them loose, then pull them off from the meaty part towards the center of the bike. Hairspray works to get grips on and sticking, but you can't use them for 24 hours.

I would use 3M spray adhesive over hairspray, it will last longer and probably stick better too.

-M

ProGrip 419 gel-filled grips help reduce vibration felt through the grips. They come in several colors, they're reasonably priced (OK, they're CHEAP), but they fit perfectly, they're more comfortable than the stock grips, and they look good (for those concerned about aesthetics).

Here's a LINK for you to check them out.

Here's a close-up:

http://12.158.74.10/product_images/PG719L.jpg

You can probably find them locally, which will save you the cost of shipping, and the delay in waiting for delivery.