I love playing to peoples egos. 

Ok, I need some Brain power here.  Input please, Gentlemen.

Nearest Stealership is an 80mi round trip for me, so I need a good Idea of what shims to buy, before I start.
Here is an update.

Reference: Clymers ch.3/pg.90/fig. 102

Cam position "C":
RH intake    = less than .038mm
RH exhaust = @ .165mm
LH intake    =less than .038mm

Cam position "D":
LH exhaust = @ .127mm

Any suggestions of what shims I should buy?

You need to know what sizes are in there now.  With that info and your clearance measurements you calculate what new sizes you need to bring it into spec.  Watch Kerry's video, he explains it all in good detail.

Thanks Mandres.
I have Kerry's video on DVD. I understand the process, I am just trying to avoid making multiple trips.  I know I won't know exactly what to buy, I just want a collective pool of minds to help me come up with a good selection of shims.

RH intake    = .265mm shim
RH exhaust = .255mm shim

The other two shims I did not pull out. I will over lunch and post up.

Quote from: 3imo on February 27, 2007, 09:28:19 AM
I love playing to peoples egos. 

Ok, I need some Brain power here.  Input please, Gentlemen.

Nearest Stealership is an 80mi round trip for me, so I need a good Idea of what shims to buy, before I start.
Here is an update.

Reference: Clymers ch.3/pg.90/fig. 102

Cam position "C":
RH intake    = less than .038mm has 2.65mm shim - add the 2 and you have 2.68 and you'd need atleast .01 clearance and you cannot get a 2.67 so with a 2.65 here so you're good.
RH exhaust = @ .165mm has 2.55mm shim add that and you have 2.715 mm and need atleast .01 so 2.705 AKA a 270 shim here.
LH intake    =less than .038mm

Cam position "D":
LH exhaust = @ .127mm

Any suggestions of what shims I should buy?

And what are you doing it without a kit from either kerry or mine that's floating somewhere around.
Cool.
Srinath.

wit the Right intake on the tight side, I'd get the next thinner shim 2.60mm. Ideally you could measure your current shim with a micrometer to find out how thick it actually is, and you could measure the new shims too and hopefully find one on the thick side of 2.60mm like 2.62mm or something.

on the right exhaust I'd go with a 2.65mm shim (use the one from your intake) that should give you .065mm clearance. I disagree with srinath on this, I think he may be cofusing mm and inches when he's figuruing his clearances. a 2.70 shim would give you .015mm clearance which is below the minimum specs of .03mm.

It isn't too hard to figure out, just a little addition and subtraction. Ideally you can use a micrometer to get more acurate. And the clearance range is .03mm to .08mm or .001" to .003" (inches) be sure you don't mix up the two

good luck and lut us know how it goes 

I drove to the stealership for lunch and they don't even carry the shims in stock   So they want me to pay $8/ea and wait for them to come in.  Those Bastards. 

Anyway, on my way home I found a Small custom bike shop.  They had them in stock and for only $2.50/ea.    Plus I could return and swap as I please as long as I install the shims correctly and the numbers arent erased.

Duc - I came to the same #'s you did, sorta. I picked up a .260 and two .245.  Hopefully with these I can get a better Idea of what shims I would need.

If you can get shims for only $2.50 each and you can bring 'em back for a full refund, just buy one of each and be done with it.

I've learned long ago never to assume that anybody has what you need in stock, no matter how simple, even oil filters. I always call first 'cause the dealer is about 40 miles from my place too.

Good luck and I hope you get the bike back on the road soon.  then you can send me your tool 

Dude, don't say "send me your tool" and then wink.  It makes me uncomfortable, OK?

I didn't get a chance yesterday to "f" with the engine.  hopefully today.

Thanks everyone.

He said mm ... yea but I set it to .01 mm or there abouts ... So Duc is right. Set it to .001 inch. That's .025 mm. But setting to .01mm while a bit tight, isn't going to hurt. I have had several that I can spin and not measure. Even after 5 mins of riding. 300-400 miles later its measurable. But I know that that bike wears cams and shims (all mine were that way ... coinkidink ... or jetting ... or design ... your guess is as good as mine) and not the valve seats. YMMV on that one.
Cool.
Srinath.

Ha ha!  didn't mean to make you uncomfortable there 3imo I didn't mean it like that

All jokes aside, I am officially Stumpted    and I am not talking about my tool.   

I started out with the following:

Quote
Reference: Clymers ch.3/pg.90/fig. 102

Cam position "C":
RH intake    = less than .038mm
RH exhaust = @ .165mm
LH intake    =less than .038mm

Cam position "D":
LH exhaust = @ .127mm

I bought shims: 2.65, 2.60, 2.45, 2.45    (Srinath- didn't see your suggestion till now. I wondered why you quoted me  )
Now look what I have:

Cam position "C":
RH intake    = @ .127mm  (shim=2.45mm)
RH exhaust = @ .102mm   (shim=2.65mm)
LH intake    = @ .127mm  (shim=2.45mm)

Cam position "D":
LH exhaust = @ .152mm (shim=2.60)

----------------------------------------------
NOW here is where I need your help.  I think I am correct, but want to be sure. PLEASE correct me if necessary. I am shooting for mid-tolerance 0.06mm   (halfway between 0.03mm and 0.08mm)

THE MATH.

RH intake    = @ .127mm  (shim=2.45mm)

Total distance between cam and bucket = 0.127mm + 2.45mm = 2.577mm

Total distance minus mid tolerance = 2.577mm - 0.060mm = 2.517mm

I would need a shim of 2.50mm to reach a clearance of 0.06mm

I also tried subtracting the mid-tolerance from the current clearance = 0.127mm - 0.060mm = 0.067mm

then adding that to the current shim = 0.067mm + 2.45mm = 2.517mm

again concluding that I would need a shim of 2.50mm to reach a clearance of 0.06mm

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

If my math is right, then this is what I need.

Cam position "C":
RH intake    = ~ .060mm (shim=2.50mm)
RH exhaust = ~ .060mm   (shim=2.70mm)
LH intake    = ~ .060mm  (shim=2.50mm)

Cam position "D":
LH exhaust = ~ .060mm (shim=2.70)

AM I WRONG???

{warning - NEWBIE question}  what is the C and D position? {/end warning}

Reference: Clymers ch.3/pg.90/fig. 102

The clymers repair manual identifies the positions of the cams as Position C and D.  I don't know if it is a standard Suzuki thing or a Clymers thing.

Basically, Position C is when the Ignition pickup tick marks are aligned together and the cam shaft tick marks face each other.

Position D is when 360° around clockwise with the cam shaft tick marks facing away from each other.

At Position C the cams for the RH intake, RH exhaust and LH intake are turned up away from the valve bucket, allowing you to check your valve clearances.

Position D the cam for the LH exhaust is turned up , allowing you to check that valve clearance.

If you are attempting a valve adjustment for the first time, I strongly suggest you have a manual at hand.

Quote from: 3imo on March 01, 2007, 08:19:34 AM
AM I WRONG???

Nope, you are correct.  Good job.  After you put the new shims in, rotate the motor over by hand a couple times, and then remeasure. 

YAY!! thats what I wanted a pat on the back and a "good job".
Thanks Scratch. 

A couple times?  I was only doing one full rotation between shims.    oh well I bought enough extra sized shims just in case.

whatever shims are left, I will send out along with the tool as a kit. We will have Three kits floating around. 

QuoteReference: Clymers ch.3/pg.90/fig. 102

The clymers repair manual identifies the positions of the cams as Position C and D.  I don't know if it is a standard Suzuki thing or a Clymers thing.

Basically, Position C is when the Ignition pickup tick marks are aligned together and the cam shaft tick marks face each other.

Position D is when 360° around clockwise with the cam shaft tick marks facing away from each other.

At Position C the cams for the RH intake, RH exhaust and LH intake are turned up away from the valve bucket, allowing you to check your valve clearances.

Position D the cam for the LH exhaust is turned up , allowing you to check that valve clearance.

If you are attempting a valve adjustment for the first time, I strongly suggest you have a manual at hand.

awesome!  thank you for taking the time to write that.  i remember that diagram from the manual now.  this is very very helpful.

time? time is on my side.  I am stuck in lower Alabama at work dodging Tornados and bugging everyone on GStwins with my failed attempts at being witty.

Everyone else has been sent home due to bad weather.   I am so bored, having something to type about makes the time pass by.

I wish I had the remote from that Sandler movie.

<click> yabba dabba doo time!

One or two full rotations...either/or.

Well the clearances are alll now up to spec.

BUT the knocking didn't go away.   this project will have to go back on the back burner.



time to park it for now.

I have a brand new 302 V8 long block waiting for me at Advanced auto.  I waited a year to buy this thing.