I recently took apart my carb and cleaned it out. Didn't replace any parts but just a good cleaning. I only did one side because I could not remove one of the float bowl(all 4 screws are now stripped).  Anyways, I put it all back together and ran it for ~10-15min and when I got off, it was incredibly HOT.  Then a few hours later, had to ride back home and had to pull over(paranoid) once cuz it was so hot and during traffic time.  It was working fine before I got into the carb.  I checked all hoses and none were pinched.  I also replaced the oil and filter and ran it again.  Still HOT.  I just checked the plugs and both of them are white on the tip, brownish/black on the rim.  Any ideas why it's running so hot and how to fix it?

I do plan on re-jetting with 20/60/135 jets once I get the float bowl screws off.

-Zhi

How are you judging that its running hot?  I know the engine gets warm while in use, but how are you saying this is hotter than normal?

I can feel the heat when I sit on the bike and it's a lot warmer than normal, I can also smell something funny from the engine.  Also where the oil stick is, it is hot to the touch, not warm.  This is only after ~10 min of riding. Also the spark plug is not brownish/black, it is white on the tip.  White indicates it is running hot correct?

means your running lean.

You can probably do as I had to do and turn out your float bowl screws by using visegrips on the outside head of the screw.  The same properties that make the screw slots easy to bugger give the vise grips a solid hold on the screw head.   You might try a pair of those needle nose vise grips.   Just keep some new screws handy, although I re-used the one that I buggered up.   

Zman - your headers glowing ... cos I have seen that ... that = bad.
Anyway you got PM.
Cool.
Buddha.

Quote from: zman93 on June 23, 2008, 06:37:15 PM
I can feel the heat when I sit on the bike and it's a lot warmer than normal, I can also smell something funny from the engine.  Also where the oil stick is, it is hot to the touch, not warm.  This is only after ~10 min of riding. Also the spark plug is not brownish/black, it is white on the tip.  White indicates it is running hot correct?

My new 08 you could not remove the oil cap without a rag as it was that hot.  Plugs were a little white also but I expect that from a new ride running lean. 

What are you smelling? is it like a burning oils smell? burning rubber smell? oil petrol fume smell?

Sounds like your bike is running lean.It could also be low oil level.Please read this thread about checking oil the proper way.Blown engines make me wanna 

http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=41989.new#new

Remember our bikes use the oil to cool them down also.Not just air flow.

Quote from: ben2go on June 23, 2008, 09:24:10 PM
Sounds like your bike is running lean.It could also be low oil level.Please read this thread about checking oil the proper way.Blown engines make me wanna 

http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=41989.new#new

Remember our bikes use the oil to cool them down also.Not just air flow.

I am planning on re-jetting it to 20/60/135 but that doesn't explain why it was working ok before when I had 17.5/60/127.5 jets.  As far as the oil, I just did a oil/filter change and added 3 quarts of oil.  It ask for 3.1 quarts.  The smell is more like a burning rubber smell.

Also, Buddha.....what do you mean "headers glowing"?

Quote from: zman93 on June 24, 2008, 07:46:08 AM

Quote from: ben2go on June 23, 2008, 09:24:10 PM
Sounds like your bike is running lean.It could also be low oil level.Please read this thread about checking oil the proper way.Blown engines make me wanna 

http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=41989.new#new

Remember our bikes use the oil to cool them down also.Not just air flow.

I am planning on re-jetting it to 20/60/135 but that doesn't explain why it was working ok before when I had 17.5/60/127.5 jets.  As far as the oil, I just did a oil/filter change and added 3 quarts of oil.  It ask for 3.1 quarts.  The smell is more like a burning rubber smell.

Also, Buddha.....what do you mean "headers glowing"?

When a bike runs hot the exhaust bends at the engine will glow orange to red in color.This is a sure sign of severe over heating.

I didn't change anything. only cleaned the carb and jets(only 1 side since I couldn't get the other side off) but now it's running hot.  The carb is now off again and trying to re-jet but can't due to dam screws seized.

Yeah I think carb screws are major crapola, even if you do get the right screwdriver. I recommend go to local hardware store and get a screw extractor drill bit... might be able to use pliars ... Get those crap brass screws out and replace with allen screws.

My bike runs hot too.. can't touch top of dip stick after a 20+ minute ride. Bike only smells funny after an oil change as oil gets on the exhaust and burns off... and whatnot.

Quote from: commuterdude on June 23, 2008, 07:31:49 PM
You can probably do as I had to do and turn out your float bowl screws by using visegrips on the outside head of the screw.  The same properties that make the screw slots easy to bugger give the vise grips a solid hold on the screw head.   You might try a pair of those needle nose vise grips.   Just keep some new screws handy, although I re-used the one that I buggered up.   

Here are some pix of the screw heads and the spark plug.  Maybe someone can tell me if that is a normal look for a spark plug on "factory default Lean condition"
screw
screw2
screw side view
spark plug

I think if you will apply a penetrating oil a few times to the screws, then use a needle nose vise grip from the side, or a regular one from the top, you should stand a really good chance of turning them out.  Put the vise grips on tight the first time.   Heat the carb body at the screws with a heat gun (not too hot) or even a blow dryer (hot as it will go) for a few minutes and cook in that penetrating oil first.

what about drilling out the head and then the screw should come out easy right?  I heard that works from someone here but I can't find that posting now.

take a saw, and CUT A FLAT groove into the screw. Pretty much making it fit into a flat head screw. LULZ. i did it with mine, and it works.

Tried that, didn't work. 
gonna try "commuterdude" advice now.  Last resort, drill it out then take my chances.

when I did the jets, I think like 5 of the 8 screws stripped... I used e-z out bits and a drill. worked slick. I think vice grips will likely do the trick too though.



d

Yea leftie drills, this and that ... eventually they can all fail ... seen that happen not pretty. No method is fool proof ...
Cool.
Buddha.

did you try hitting the screw head with a hammer?? It usually works for me. You could also get a tool which looks like screw driver but you hit it with a hammer and it spins left slightly with each hammer stroke loosening the screw this way.
good luck