so some of you might bash on the rattler's

well ther long and short is..


i can speed 1000$ and get it done by a pro or spend my time and 40$ in paint and get her done...

i've sprayed my GS and i recently got a second one that needs a bit of TLC.... starting with PAINT!

before you go on about blah blah looks like crap... i'll have you know it CAN look decent (especially good for a 20 year old bike!)



anyway

the parts i've done always look GREAT i prime em give em a few coats and exopy enamel it...

and thats works fine....


BUT the stupid tank

always the tank

(you needa spray it OVER AND OVER to get it right... as you need to do THINK layers to make it look good... but then it drips and runs)

when im filling up maybve not EVERY time but getting a few drops onto the tank is gonna happen....

first coat of pain i didnt coat it... paint was gone LIKE MAGIC!

second time i used this enal stuff... very cool... paint stays...

but over time you can see where the gas hit... as the color changed... also right around the filler cap the pain is starting to change into a tacky gum almost

i'll post some pics up..


but i guess my biggest question is.... what can i spray it with that'll make it "HIGHLY gas resistant"

here what my tank is doing....




and some shots of my newest paint:





and my new bike (old one in the back)

Have you tried base-clearcoat combinations?

Some car rattle can stuff is designed to be clear coated to match the factory technique.
One clear coat that I found was compatible with some of the base coats is Engine clear.
Maybe a top coat of an engine clear would be more resistant.

thanks!

dont suppose you have a link or a pic of the can?

im doing alot of reading and man seems like the best i can get with a rattler is "just small wrinckles"

but there has to be a better way... their always is... i just need to find it

Pretty much all my paint jobs are rattle-cans.

Here's what I do.

USE ALL THE SAME BRAND/TYPE OF PAINT!!!!! If you use Krylon primer, use Krylon everything else... but don't use Krylon because it's enamel and will bubble off with gas/oil exposure.

Use Dupli-Color SUV/Truck/Van paint, it's Laquer based and can be wet-sanded, clear-coated, and buffed no problem.

Afterwards, you can drizzle gas or oil on it and as long as you catch it quick will do NOTHING to the paint.

Here's a few of the projects I've resurrected with this process:

START:


FINISH:



START:

FINISH:




FINISH:




FINISH:




Dan

Don't just rely on auto parts stores. 
Automotive paint stores, IE PPG etc. usually stock a lot of rattle cans.  They can also give you some good tips.

a buddie told me to check out a small store in the next town over...

maybe they can mix up a 2k for me and put it in a can =-P

this machine is fantastic ! love the olive paint, love the wheels !
http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c143/DannyMoped07/greenmoped002.jpg


the truck is pimpalishouse also, but since it's a cage, it sucks

i did mine rattle can for the time being. really paint is coming this winter (purple just was not a good 22 year old male color)

Quote from: Mdow on September 25, 2008, 07:48:28 AM
purple just was not a good 22 year old male color

Hey...didn't Prince got a lot of chicks.... ?? You sure it's really all about the color?

hehehehehehe 

i rattle-canned my frame black. i am cheap, i am a college student and i decided to take care of the rust now before it got too cold to spray.

i used PJ1 fast black epoxy spray paint and it came out alright (good enough for me, i dont care if others hate). I dont know about the epoxy part though because isnt it a mix between two chemicals which harden it? anyhow, one can worked fine. I have a second for when i need to touch up. I've got other things to worry about before a true real deal powder coat.... like extracting a siezed broken bolt off the header in an area that is nearly impossible to access head on. I'm not comfortable removing the enigne; and my pockets dont run deep enough to have a shop do it.  :p

i'll post pics someday for everyone to judge. I know i'm going to get some flack for removing the rear plastics lol but i like it hahah

hey now...

i got a broken stud too...

im dealing with it..

and my plastics are off too......


but im painting mine =-P

Quote from: Jared on September 25, 2008, 09:04:48 AM

Quote from: Mdow on September 25, 2008, 07:48:28 AM
purple just was not a good 22 year old male color

Hey...didn't Prince got a lot of chicks.... ?? You sure it's really all about the color?

hehehehehehe 

price was RICH im not somthing about have a couple million bucks lets you dress in any color you want haha

Quote from: starshooter10 on September 25, 2008, 11:19:25 AM
hey now...

i got a broken stud too...

im dealing with it..

and my plastics are off too......


but im painting mine =-P

mines the upper right (facing the bike) and the subframe gets in the way of any drill. wanna come do it for me? 

Getting that header stud out is just nearly the hardest job I've ever done ... Take off the FE and get under it and drill away ... Yea everything gets in the way ... You may need to take off the removable frame member and get at it, but mine was an 89 ... and 89-90's have a bad cross brace ... newer ones are better. Anyway mdow, I would ahve done it when I was doing a FE swap ... but hey ... that's just me.
Cool.
Buddha.

the removable part of the frame; will this require the removal of the engine? or just leave a jack/blocks of wood to support it and delicately take it off??? i just thought i was way in over my head but maybe i'll give it another go

Quote from: birdman on September 24, 2008, 10:05:33 PMAutomotive paint stores, IE PPG etc. usually stock a lot of rattle cans.

Wesco always hooked me up with paint back when I cared how it looked.  They'd put in flex agent for paint bound for plastic, which is a Good Thing to keep it from cracking down the road.

a 20-foot job is just fine for my bike these days, though.

Quote from: psyber_0ptix on September 25, 2008, 02:13:18 PM
the removable part of the frame; will this require the removal of the engine? or just leave a jack/blocks of wood to support it and delicately take it off??? i just thought i was way in over my head but maybe i'll give it another go

Leave it on blocks or a jack ... but motor aint going anywhere ... there is 2 huge bolts on the back keeping it there ... the b loody thing is a nighmare to get out even if you take those out ...
Cool.
Buddha.

RATTLE CANS RULE ! You can save some serious cash with a lot of time. It was starting to rain and its kind of dirty but ill post better pics soon. And yea, I painted my seat. I used Montana Gold spray paint, special graffiti paint, seriously thick with pigment, then pinstripe it clear w/ halographic paint then clear it 3 more times with regular gloss, ALL PAINT HAS TO BE COMPATiBLE !!!!    ie... acrylic, enamel, laqeur, ect...

Woah, that is one seriously beautiful paint job!