I got bored last night and decided to get some of the questions about this FE swap answered.

Updates later tonight 


Peace!

Here is some updated info for those interested in buying this FE...


1)  Before the FE can be mounted onto your frame you will need to change the steering stops on either the frame or lower triple tree.  I recommend the lower triple tree because in doing so, you can easily swap back to your old forks if for whatever reason you want to do that in the future.  Refer to the pictures below to better understand the issue...







Now when i mounted it up last night and found this issue i had the question of, "How the hell did the guy i bought this from use this FE on the GS then?".  Since the tab wasn't touched on the triple tree the only answer could be that he removed the steering stops from the bike he used it on.  (The bike the FE is on in the pic was not purchased from him.)  So to answer the question i went to my storage facility where i keep the bikes and checked to see if either of the frame stops have been modified.  Here's what i found...




As you can see, the stop was totally removed and that's it.  It wasn't modified to work with this triple's stop, it was just simply removed and no concern further was given to it.




2)  The ignition/steering lock will work with the addition of a spacer 7/8" long between the lock and the top triple tree.  The ignition lock will be recessed approximately 1/2" in the hoop on the top triple tree.  I say approximate because the ignition i used for reference has been modified and i don't know if a unmodified one will be taller and hence not be as recessed as much.  I am confident that it will not be lower than 1/2" though.  See CRAZY pic below...





3)  I did weigh both FE's.  They are within a couple of pounds of each other which surprised me cause the GS stock FE looks so wimpy next to the GSXR.  So wimpy i don't really even want to put it back on the bike, lol.  I really expected the difference to be greater.


Got more info but no time to type it, will finish up tomorrow.  Peace!

Mini update to my update.  I decided to just remove the steering stop from the lower triple tree myself.  It's the right way to modify it as already discussed and the only thing that's stopping me from using the FE on the bike i put it on.  Of note as well is that the back of the lower triple tree actually hits the frame before any other part of the FE does.  So basically, it's a steering stop.  There is only about 1/4 of an inch though between parts which is a little less then i'd prefer.  I have no idea what's standard for this sort of thing, but i'd think at least 1/2" would be better to allow for some flex and what not if someone bump into something or dropped the bike.

Anyone feel like measuring the distance between the closet parts with the steering at full lock for me?

I assume it will be the triple trees as long as your bars aren't going FTW on this one.


Peace

P.S.  Oh man, almost forgot.

This i really would like to know.

How far off center does your front wheel turn at full lock?

I just need a good guesstimate.

It doesn't have to be spot on.

But please at least use some form of tool when trying to figure it out.


Thanks, Bob!

The closest thing on my bike (stock forks) at full lock is the lower triple.  It is almost exactly 1/2 inch from hitting the frame. 

Measuring the distance off center accurately in degrees is a lot harder than I thought.  Well, I guess it should be since all I could come up with to measure it was a small protractor and some safety wire.  I kept getting 32 degrees.  I'm not too confident in it so please treat it like a guesstimate. 

Hopefully someone with some real measuring skills will chime in with a more accurate number. 

Hitting your frame with your lower triple is an absolutely horrible idea. Why do you think did all 5 major manufacturers and most of the minor ones (BMW, triumph, KTM, polaris, duc etc etc) have some way of stopping.
I am near about sure you will end up dinging the frame.

A thinking out of the box solution: You may be able to zip tie a chunk of car tire at the contact point on the frame or the forks. Atleast it wont tear up one or the other.
Cool.
Buddha.

Quote from: ineedanap on March 28, 2009, 03:16:18 PM
The closest thing on my bike (stock forks) at full lock is the lower triple.  It is almost exactly 1/2 inch from hitting the frame. 

Measuring the distance off center accurately in degrees is a lot harder than I thought.  Well, I guess it should be since all I could come up with to measure it was a small protractor and some safety wire.  I kept getting 32 degrees.  I'm not too confident in it so please treat it like a guesstimate. 

Hopefully someone with some real measuring skills will chime in with a more accurate number. 

Thanks Nappy!  Unless someone else chimes in i'll be using your info...

Quote from: The Buddha on March 29, 2009, 07:32:11 AM
Hitting your frame with your lower triple is an absolutely horrible idea. Why do you think did all 5 major manufacturers and most of the minor ones (BMW, triumph, KTM, polaris, duc etc etc) have some way of stopping.
I am near about sure you will end up dinging the frame.

A thinking out of the box solution: You may be able to zip tie a chunk of car tire at the contact point on the frame or the forks. Atleast it wont tear up one or the other.
Cool.
Buddha.

Agreed.  The final solution would be to weld two stops on the lower triple like the stock GS.  That's why i asked about degrees off center for the steering as well as the space between parts at full lock.  So i'd have a good idea of what's, "Normal" and go from there.

I like the tire idea. Good suggestion.  But something i've found in my life is it's much easier to just do it the right way.  And weld some tabs up is it.

The stops aren't a super priority for me right now because the only time they'll be used is when the bike is parked and the handle bars are swung to the left.  Which is why i was happy to find that the frame would act like a stop and prevent any parts from getting together.  Well, any parts from hitting my showroom quality tank that is.  And until i get them on, i will just be slow and careful when i park the bike.  Although i'm inexperienced in modifying/mechanics on the GS, i do have 24 years of riding experience so the stops just aren't an issue for me.

Something interesting i found last night too while searching for different year lower triples made by Suzuki is, the dual stop like the stock GS has become the norm on all models pretty much starting from what looks like 91/2 ish to date.  (I missed it by [  ] that much!)  I also found lower triples from newer GSXR's that resemble the top triple i have better.  I'm not sure if they'd match up, but for someone interested in making a showpiece it would definitely be a better route to go.

If no one stops me by buying this FE from me first, i'm essentially going turn it into a bolt on.  It's going to appeal to more buyers that way, but unfortunately also raise my asking price.  Which will make it less appealing to some buyers...

Rock and a hard place?

Dammed if i do and if i don't?

It's not the fall but the sudden stop at the bottom?  (Ok, this one doesn't fit the theme but i couldn't think of anymore cliche's that did, lol) 

Quote from: The Buddha on March 27, 2009, 07:10:14 AM
We do that all the time to fleabay dirt bags.
However its their option to publish it. Only a fool ignores what the rest of the market is doing and prices things out of proportion with what the market will bear.
Like this piece of sheite -
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2004-Suzuki-GS-500-WileyCo-Muffler-USED_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp3286Q2em20Q2el1116QQhashZitem270166238782QQitemZ270166238782QQptZMotorcyclesQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

Sitting for 4 years on fleabay. Ebay should start charging @ the time of listing. It will clear out these Idiots and

Yeah, hell when you originalljy did the flanges the 60 i spent for mine was it worth it. Maybe I got a bad one but mine leaks like an SOB

Thanks for having principles Werase643.  And especially for sharing them.  I appreciate the effort.   

Quote from: average on March 29, 2009, 01:49:07 PM

Quote from: The Buddha on March 27, 2009, 07:10:14 AM
We do that all the time to fleabay dirt bags.
However its their option to publish it. Only a fool ignores what the rest of the market is doing and prices things out of proportion with what the market will bear.
Like this piece of sheite -
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2004-Suzuki-GS-500-WileyCo-Muffler-USED_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp3286Q2em20Q2el1116QQhashZitem270166238782QQitemZ270166238782QQptZMotorcyclesQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

Sitting for 4 years on fleabay. Ebay should start charging @ the time of listing. It will clear out these Idiots and

Yeah, hell when you originalljy did the flanges the 60 i spent for mine was it worth it. Maybe I got a bad one but mine leaks like an SOB

Well the flange was always leaking or did it start now ?
I had these offset ones (the plate is round and not triangularly ovally shaped) ... anyway if that is what yours is, I think you may have to get new gaskets on and torque it back down.
Cool.
Buddha.

Quote from: Big Shot on March 29, 2009, 01:22:00 PM
Agreed.  The final solution would be to weld two stops on the lower triple like the stock GS.  That's why i asked about degrees off center for the steering as well as the space between parts at full lock.  So i'd have a good idea of what's, "Normal" and go from there.

I like the tire idea. Good suggestion.  But something i've found in my life is it's much easier to just do it the right way.  And weld some tabs up is it.
 

No. Weld to the middle of that lower triple and you will really really run the risk of having that damn thing break in 1/2 under stress. Its OK to weld a little thin area around the stem like the factory did, its a very shallow weld with low heat, but try to put a stub for a steering stop on that weird ass Iron based cast metal and you really can screw it up.
You are better off welding to the steeing neck, but that means you may have to get that frame out in the open, un seat the lower race etc etc.
Cool.
Buddha.

the reason for the stops is to keep from tapping the tank with the h-bars
also when crashing you might get your hand pinched

what would the advantage be to swapping my forks on my gs for these other than gaining clip ons?

Stopping power? Being the GS inovator(sp) in your hood?

stopping power? how do forks affect that?

They don't, but that caliper does. The GS caliper has only 2 pistons per caliper, while that Nissin has dual opposed pistons; 4 per caliper.

Quote from: TheDrunknmonky on March 29, 2009, 06:07:15 PM
what would the advantage be to swapping my forks on my gs for these other than gaining clip ons?

The brake calipers on these forks are better than the GS's.  The GS has 2 pistons and these have four.  Simply put, they work much much better.   

These forks offer adjustment for preload, compression, and rebound.  The GS's do not.

These forks are 43mm thick and do not flex under aggressive driving situations.  The GS's are 37mm thick and flex more than a bodybuilder in front of a mirror.

These forks were designed to do this.  http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=7848723937557327814&hl=en  The GS's were not.

The video shows Katana forks.  These GSXR forks are better than those.


Quoting Werase643
43 mm built like a brick sh!t house===> NO FLEX until you hit that truck
sweet front end.....100 times nicer than a Katana f/e


More info can be found here...  http://wiki.gstwins.com/index.php?n=Upgrades.FrontForks

There isn't a GSXR write up yet.

When it's all said and done, i hope to have one made.


Bob

I'd pitch in here and say atleast 3 things that make this less than 1000 times nicer than a Kat fe.
1. nothing you do will let this run your guages in the stock position with the original grommets. Only a kat 600 89-95 will work for that. None of the 750's and not even the later 600's.
2. Single caliper. Kat 600 is dual with 4 pistons per. Main advantage is not performance, its brake disk and pad life. A standard GS can lock its tar no matter what tar you have, past that caliper aint doing nothing.
3. Fork brace and fender off a GS fit the kat and look better than the kat ones. They dont on this.

3.5 - Clip on's under the triple isn't my preferred location. I prefer over the triple. But ... its an old man's opinion.

This after you mod the triple for a steering stop. I still like my car tire idea though.

Having said all that, its a good FE. Just dont over sell it. Maybe you should sell it @ the katana/bandit site also.
Cool.
Buddha.

Quote from: The Buddha on March 30, 2009, 07:47:36 AM
I'd pitch in here and say atleast 3 things that make this less than 1000 times nicer than a Kat fe.
1. nothing you do will let this run your guages in the stock position with the original grommets. Only a kat 600 89-95 will work for that. None of the 750's and not even the later 600's.
2. Single caliper. Kat 600 is dual with 4 pistons per. Main advantage is not performance, its brake disk and pad life. A standard GS can lock its tar no matter what tar you have, past that caliper aint doing nothing.
3. Fork brace and fender off a GS fit the kat and look better than the kat ones. They dont on this.

3.5 - Clip on's under the triple isn't my preferred location. I prefer over the triple. But ... its an old man's opinion.

This after you mod the triple for a steering stop. I still like my car tire idea though.

Having said all that, its a good FE. Just dont over sell it. Maybe you should sell it @ the katana/bandit site also.
Cool.
Buddha.

  Them are fighting words Buddha!  But it'll have to wait until later tonight when i done wrenching...


Bob!

Not fighting nothing. I was just stating fact. Much like you saying these are 43mm and GS is 37. No disputes there ...
I have been in GSXR crap to my eyeballs. Katana too.
Cool.
Buddha.