i couldnt have done the wiring without a soldering iron, a drill and at least a hacksaw. dremels work great, but for frame cutting you definately want to pick up a 25 dollar grinder from home depot.


aluminum angle stock can be had for a couple bux at home depot. i actually have a lot of extra. but you have to decide whether or not you want to keep your stock airbox. It ~just~ fit with the project box and k&n filter. as in, there was about <1/4" of clearance. But if it was mounted further back, then the gas tank would not fit back on the bike. I literally just guessed it correct but it's very very close.

take everything apart, and start unclipping wires and try to clear the tangles. undo all the electric tape that covers the harness so you can shift wires in and out as needed. i may have cut wires only to solder them back together so it would be more organized. i only had to extend 3 wires that lead to the fuse block on the right hand side that also connects the positive battery terminal to the starter (i think?). I also flipped this fuse thing upside down and bent the positive terminal back so it fit better. I pulled the main harness back under the tank a couple inches. Just try to push as much of the wires to the front of the battery as possible. i just tried to see how much could be moved around and relocated some other things so it would be as out of site as possible.

int he 5th picture down you can see the bracket that bolts to the stock airbox tabs, its painted black partially, but continues out toward the air filter (as seen in other pictures). I mounted the aluminum angle pieces (the left side rests on the nut for the petcock mount) and drilled two holes each side so i could bolt the box into the aluminum. the box has slots (grinded) into the side for the wiring harness to sit in (dumping all the wires into the box). If you want larger pictures to try to zoom in and inspect just shoot me your email. If you have any ideas and some basic tools. just be creative and try different things. innovation and imagination 

everything i did was done by grinder/cutter (hacksaw would suffice), drill and basic hand tools. it isnt difficult, just patience and know your wires/ knots. I probably disconnected and reconnected the harness/relays 7-10 times just test fitting re routing and cutting/resoldering.

the bar end mirrors are from ebay. they are actually clamped to the bars but i have yet to get real bar ends so i just stuffed what came with the mirrors into the ends. I'm on the hunt for some bar end weight things but i'm a bit on the lean side financially.

shoot me your email if you want larger quality pictures for inspection. I dont know when the next time i'll take my tank off but i'll try to take more pics the next time i do.

Wow those pics look badass.. 
Very nice looking bike.

that looks REALLY good im going to have to think about a street fighter this winter

Very nice ... you know I'd have swapped you a black powdercoated top dash plate along with the stuff you bought ... you didn't ... dang it ... I am specialising in hurting you aren't I ...
First the shock spring, now the dash ...
BTW your bike ahs a lot of shiny black, chock in shiny black works just fine.
Cool.
Buddha.

It's looking great psyber! what year R1 taillight is that? also, is your license plate visable from the rear when you sit down?

Very nice! I think you did a great job. I also like the photos themselves. Very nice composition.

what is that yosh off of again?

yer horse is kickass, stay up there and enjoy the view ! the cars ain't shabby either, but you already know your stuff and don't need anyone to tell ya that



(not being a smartass up there, i really dig your work man)

Quote from: SecondsFromTheFall on October 27, 2008, 10:57:45 AM
It's looking great psyber! what year R1 taillight is that? also, is your license plate visable from the rear when you sit down?

The tail is actually from a 05 kaw zx636. I used an integrated tail/turnsignal (but am not sure how legal it is; it just looked cleaner this way). The license plate is visible if a car is following behind. However it isnt illuminated and i'm sure it is not legal. I've been playing it real safe and cops seem to be too lazy around here. They will shout at you from within their squad cars; but dont actually enforce much.

Quote from: hotrodstu77 on October 27, 2008, 01:09:51 PM
what is that yosh off of again?

yosh is from an r6; i think 04? the midpipe had to be shortened about 2.5 inches and the slipon portion rotated a bit. cost 30 bux to modify!




thanks for the compliments folks; however this isn't original lol. i based it off of russomf and quiktaco's builds. my hats are off to them  . I was just too broke to paint the tank black, and i kinda think it's more noticable by cars with color. (ride to be seen? ride to be safe?)

Tank ... black ... dude ... that blue ... I must have it ... dont paint it ... maybe we can arrange some kinda trade deal ... my powdercoated and coated on the inside tank ... for that and some $ ... how is it inside BTW ? And I'll trade you a black dash plate for yours ... mine has been powdercoated shiny black ... 
Cool.
Buddha.

A big thanks to Bob Broussard for being extremely helpful in pressing of stems and creating a burly spacer.

Notes:
There is a difference in gsxr forks ranging from 01-current. Different years have different brake mounts, different tube diameters, different rotor diameters etc etc. Take some time to coordinate yourself with the different BRAKE options and applicable wheel applications. if you are using standard caliper tabs; be careful which wheels you choose. 06+ wheels (05+ gsxr 1k) and after have a different rotor bolt pattern. 99-07 Hayabusa front wheels/rotors are the same, this gives you some cross compatability if you are shopping around and plan on using 320mm rotors. Radial calipers are by far easier to setup in terms of brake/rotor choice. You can use an 06 wheel with matching componentry or go for an older (cheaper) wheel with larger rotors and use of some spacers. Just familiarize yourself with your options and learn what can fit what.

What i ended up using were:
$150 - 2006 gsxr 600/750 forks
$  51 - 2006 gsxr radial calipers with master cylinder and brake lines*
$  35 - 2006 gsxr axle/spacer
$200 - 01-03 (k1-k3) gsxr wheel
$180 - 320mm Rotors (k1-k3 / hayabusa)
$  50 - 2006 gsxr clipons
$  25 - New GS500 steering bearings

Damage: $661  (ouch..what did i get myself into)

* this required a 5mm shim between the radial mounts and the calipers; Honda Part # 51497-MEL-D20 (x4)

good references (there are more but just search google)
http://www.gixxer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=210354
http://forum.svrider.com/showthread.php?t=59000


Pre-swap:
I send the GSXR and gs triple to bob. He was able to press the GS stem into the GSXR triple and fab up a spacer to allow the upper clamp to bolt right on top of the GS stem. For this i am deeply grateful for his time and excellent communication throughout the whole process.



now for pictures....


Before:



Remove handlebars/clipons and headlights:


removed wheel and brakes:


after the wheel was removed, you just loosen the bearing nut and drop the forks out (being mindful to reroute all the wires and cables etc). Forks will come out easily. I replaced the steering bearings so i had to tap out the old outer race.

pressing in the new outer race (bottom)...I used threaded rod and some large "fender" washers, two nuts (jammed) and a threaded coupler. These can be had for 10 bux at the hardware store. Be sure to use the THICK washers (may require larger diameter rod) because the thin ones will bend and deflect under pressure; even if stacked.




Liberally apply grease to the bearings and install the triple tree



a close up of Bob's spacer; it fills up the larger diameter of the hole in the upper clamps while providing a tapered hole on the bottom to perfectly mate to the top of the GS stem


slide the fork tubes in place and adjust height till even; don't forget the clipons...i had to drop them down again to slip them in






THe wheels...
GS wheel on left, GSXR on right.



Test fitting the wheel and brake calipers




My brake rotors came in later that evening but i was at the Brown University - Campus Dance for a couple drinks and rubbing elbows with the big wigs.

I'll post more pictures when i finish the rotor and caliper install. as well as the clutch/throttle/brake cable routing and headlight bracket/mounting.

i still need to find a dremel to destroy the rivets holding the ignition cylinder on the old upper clamp. And i need to purchase a speedometer and figure out how to plug up the tach mechanism hole.

Buddha, i still have to ship the wheel out, i'm sorry, i've been caught up in this swap and having to organize my stuff to move out soon (as well as raise funds through selling some items)



you might ask WHY i decided to do this and i'll be honest...

I'm still a bit new to motorcycles... i still have a lot to learn. I loved mountain biking for over a decade. Tore them apart, rebuilt, upgrade etc. I bought my first car; autocrossed, changed the suspension and brakes, auto crossed some more. Sold it purchased a subaru; swapped the motor, changed suspension and brakes....autocross and rallycrossed. Decided i needed to go to university and sold my car, my mountian bikes, my trials bikes for tuition. all i had left was a single speed road bike but had to ride the bus an hour to and from school 5 days a week. Having wasted 380 hours per school year sitting on a bus, after three years i picked up my first motorcycle for $900 (last summer); felt at home on it. Again...i started modding. I think this is one of the last things i can do to the bike but it pretty much completes it for me. I had another thread started showing how i got my bike to what you see. The forks are probably the last thing i'd do to the bike. I was researching forks since i bought the bike. I've been torn between kat swaps, the old gsxr forks and the new gsxr forks. There are a lot of beautiful modded GS's from race bikes to just plain awesome street bikes. I wanted functionality, as well as aesthetics and decided to slowly research and slowly harvest parts. Everything you see above was done within a day since everything was collected and available. There's still a lot to be done...and as stated earlier,  i still have a lot to learn

Dude, your bike is SICK, and you live in P-Town? I'm about an hour away from there! I live up in Worcester! That's freakin sick... sick sick sick!

Glad to see it working out well! 

BobB is da man! 

Looks good 
Did you need modify the steering stops?

As for the tach hole...
Option #1 - Buy the plug & parts from an 04. It still had the hole in the head. It was eliminated in 05.
Option #2 - Remove the drive gear from the housing, once removed from the head. Plug the hole with a bolt and nylock nut w/ a washer. First pack the hole with high temp silicone and run the bolt through it. Seal the area with more silicone where the tach cable screws in to it. Just make sure the bolt does not hit the cam.

I have run heads with both options. Both can be done without pulling the head.

Ya know ... on me SV1K, this FE would look sooooooooooooooper ... and best of all, the ignition lock, the guages, the headlight etc etc etc all works like stock ...
Just sayin ...
Cool.
Buddha.

for the steering stops; on the bottom of the triple, there are two threaded holes... it's reinforced and thicker in that area so i drilled up and through them to the surface and it's on a closer radius than the normal GSXR stops. I want to find a dremel to cut the original tabs off but my idea was to pass a bolt though the hole and using either rubber or just a bunch of washers creating a larger area for the new bolt(stop) to interfere with the original stop on the head tube. I just have to decide what diameter bolt to use; not really sure about the amount of sheer to expect in a worse case scenario. but hopefully choose something that is a bit more ductile than brittle.

pictures will be posted.... the ideas are just in my head but should work



buddha, did you get my PM about the bearings for the kat rear wheel? I'm sorry i've been bad about the bandit wheel. it WILL be sent out i just had to pay first+last month rent on my new place... and still need to sell some things.

the ignition lock should still work, except my wheel will be facing forward instead of cocked left. I can try getting an 06 gsxr 1k top clamp to have it in the GS configuration but money is tight. i think the offset will allow a center mounted gauge such as the Acewell Speedo/Tach....instead of cluttering with two gauges.


http://www.electrosport.com/products/product-detail.php?products_id=2253

I like that gauge.  And it's priced right.  Should be able to sell your old set for what it costs to get that new one...


Good job - Bob!

Oh ... I didn't reply to that psyber ... I will do that ... I would get back to you soon ...
Cool.
Buddha.

good writeup

SICK!