you all have convinced me, i did attempt the vice grips and was again not able to get it to budge, but like i said you all have persuaded me to give it a few more attempts before going to the dealer. i really appreciate all the ideas and i will keep it all in mind. I do have one question though, i read somewhere that removing the exhaust to allow for more room to work can potentially be bad as something about the bolts that hold the exhaust on are faulty, is this the case or should i remove the exhaust as it would make working much easier.

Sledge I can appreciate what you are saying and I agree none of these are the easiest thing to do if you haven't done it.  I agree with the do anything you can to learn how to not take it in to be done for you.  I didn't go into detail about the easy out because for all I know he may already know how to do it.  If not.... one thing that would get missed if you haven't worked metal before would be the use of a punch to keep the bit from wandering.  It's pretty much follow the directions after that.  There are several tricks such as slotting and hammering a flathead screwdriver in there.  I wasn't born knowing this...I either learned it by watching and helping my grandpa or trial and error.  Even if that doesn't work there is the drill and tap method such as reload mentioned or you can do that first step if you feel good about it.  I am just saying chances are, no matter how screwed you think you are, someone has probably stuffed it up worse.  Just trying to give some guidance even if it's been said a thousand times before.  You never learn if you don't try.  Just research as much as you can and try to get the right tools for the job.  One step at a time and don't get in a hurry.

Good luck.

Scott
aka the man who has been in your shoes before.

yes, the exhaust does get in the way. loosen the single bolt on the can, remove the 6mm allen bolts, then pivot it down, remove the single bolt and set aside.  

regular hand held allen keys prob wont give ya enough torque for those bolts so get your hands on a allen key socket set. i made one by cutting the hex rods off allen keys and JB welding them to spare socket sets.

now you can dremel a flat surface on that stripped stud and get to drilling.  just think it through real hard before ya do anything you can't undo.

maybe you can also post pictures so we can assist.

Quote from: LetsBeFriends on September 13, 2010, 12:47:43 PM
you all have convinced me, i did attempt the vice grips and was again not able to get it to budge, but like i said you all have persuaded me to give it a few more attempts before going to the dealer. i really appreciate all the ideas and i will keep it all in mind. I do have one question though, i read somewhere that removing the exhaust to allow for more room to work can potentially be bad as something about the bolts that hold the exhaust on are faulty, is this the case or should i remove the exhaust as it would make working much easier.

I would say the more clearance the better and if you are trying to do something tricky don't try to do it in a tight space if you can get around it.  I have yet to remove the exhaust from mine because I was worried about snapping bolts off.  A couple of people recently advised me theirs come off quite easily.  Hard to call it until you try but if you do penetrating oil soak can do wonders for stuck bolts.  I mean spray it and wait hours.  I would spray it and wait overnight....if you are waiting then let it soak while you wait.  I read a thread recently and I think GSJack gave a lot of sound advice on the subject of stuck bolts ie....penetrating oil.....heat and beat....etc.  Do a search on exhaust bolts.  The main reason I haven't dropped mine is I am waiting on gaskets to come in so I will have them ready.  Make certain you have exactly the correct allen wrench ie:  If it's a 6mm then don't try using a SAE that is sloppy in the hole or you can almost rest assured you will strip it.  Forgive me if I am telling you stuff you know. 

Scott

Quote from: reload on September 13, 2010, 01:13:54 PM
remove the 6mm allen bolts

Allen bolts??.....surely you mean socket cap-heads  and I believe they are set-screws not bolts 

Quote from: sledge on September 13, 2010, 01:30:31 PM

Quote from: reload on September 13, 2010, 01:13:54 PM
remove the 6mm allen bolts

Allen bolts??.....surely you mean socket cap-heads  and I believe they are set-screws not bolts  

ack, why is there always a guy like you on forums...

allen bolt is another name for it...just like recessed hex, socket cap screws etc etc.

i can tell you have no idea what you're talking about if you think that's a set-screw so please stop trolling and play nice.

just sprayed the exhaust bolts with WD-40 and will let that sit over night, ill get some pics in the morning so you can see what i a dealing with, i am going to get these out myself   the advice hear is worth a million dollars

Quote from: reload on September 13, 2010, 01:39:45 PM
i can tell you have no idea what you're talking about if you think that's a set-screw.

Really?.......well let me give you a friendly reminder of the differences between bolts and set screws as it would seem that when you were `teaching` yourself it was something you overlooked along the way 

Put simply bolts are not threaded along the whole length of the shank they are intended to be (but not always) used with nuts and not generaly fitted into threaded components.


A bolt!

Set screws on the otherhand are fastenings that are threaded along the whole length of the shank. They are weaker than comparable bolts, can also be used with nuts and are intended to be fitted into threaded components.

A set screw.

"Allen" is a brand name, its not a generc term for any derivation of socket head fastenening or hexagonal section key.

Call me a pedant if you wish but (unlike you) I was tought by professionals, appologies if the result of this offends you   

Quote from: LetsBeFriends on September 13, 2010, 06:47:36 PM
just sprayed the exhaust bolts with WD-40 and will let that sit over night, ill get some pics in the morning so you can see what i a dealing with, i am going to get these out myself   the advice hear is worth a million dollars

Advice?
Howabout you forget about WD40 and use something worthwhile.......like Plus-gas

What is the right torque for those cap screws anyway?

Manual says 9-12 Newts....call it 10.5 for the standard Hi-tensile ones. Swap them out for stainless or cover them in coppa-slip on the way back in and you are on your own 

Quote from: sledge on September 13, 2010, 11:31:32 PM

Quote from: reload on September 13, 2010, 01:39:45 PM
i can tell you have no idea what you're talking about if you think that's a set-screw.

Really?.......well let me give you a friendly reminder of the differences between bolts and set screws as it would seem that when you were `teaching` yourself it was something you overlooked along the way  

Put simply bolts are not threaded along the whole length of the shank they are intended to be (but not always) used with nuts and not generaly fitted into threaded components.


A bolt!

Set screws on the otherhand are fastenings that are threaded along the whole length of the shank. They are weaker than comparable bolts, can also be used with nuts and are intended to be fitted into threaded components.
A set screw.

"Allen" is a brand name, its not a generc term for any derivation of socket head fastenening or hexagonal section key.

Call me a pedant if you wish but (unlike you) I was tought by professionals, appologies if the result of this offends you  

no, you're wrong. just look up the definitions. please type set screw into google.

there are many definitions for bolt vs screw, you'll find that argument to be inconclusive.