Its been a long while since i've been on this board with anything to contribute. I'm currently in germany completing my 4th year by taking a semester abroad (just finished my finals) and working for 6 months at a Praktikum (i have an interview tuesday with BMW's Research and Innovation Center). But my last project before I left was an old e30 bmw.

This is copy pasted from other forums, but if anyone liked my bike, maybe some might appreciate what i went through to get this car together.




BEGINNING COPY PASTE FROM FORUMS

I sold my swapped impreza L (274awhp untuned) for college tuition. I've gone 3 years riding the bus 3 hours/day to and from school. I'm all for public transportation but at this point, I waste so much time commuting that it started affecting my grades. It only takes 30 minutes each way by car/motorcycle. I decided to get back into cars.

I'm still new to BMW. My first, e30, I purchased last February due to my girlfriends car having issues. We needed a more reliable car. Unfortunately the 85 318i I picked up had some substantial rust on the frame rail and I thought it would be irresponsible to sell it knowing someone could get hurt by a control arm falling off the car.

I picked up a late model 318i from Zoso who is quite active on many other forums. I went with this car because it was enthusiast owned, he had history and receipts from his previous owner, and he had writeups and history on the car littered around the internet.

I hope that I can take good care of his car and turn it into a reliable fun car. I loved autocross/rallycross back home when I lived in the D.C. area. I'm hoping to rekindle that love and dust-off my helmet and gloves to get back into the wallet breaking hobby.


future plans
Fix Rust
Fix Rust
Fix Rust
gt30r


PARTS LIST

Motor:
-1995 s50b30US (M3)
as of August 25, 2010 it has approx 165k miles.
Maintenance (by FredK) @ 150k included:

- all of the rubber hoses were replaced (cooling, crank case ventilation, vacuum, fuel)
-The valve spring top plates were replaced (known weak point of <10/95 S50US, valve            collets pull through top spring plates).
-thermostat, aluminum housing, and genuine BMW waterpump (only good one)
Maintenance @159k miles
-The VANOS was rebuilt with a seal kit from Beisan Systems.  
-Intake tract gaskets were replaced (6x intake runner gaskets, TB gasket).
-Valve cover gasket.
-Application specific oxygen sensor.

-3.5" high flow maf (0-280-217-800) from 540i
-Bosch/Ford 24# injectors
-TRM (the racers market) chip http://www.racersmarket.net/index.php
-e34 Oilpan (to clear subframe)
- Late model M20 starter
-80/88 Temperature Switch (61-31-8-361-787)
-UHMW polyethylene motor/trans mounts (solid)

Suspension/Brakes:
-e36 M3 TC Klein dual adjustable front struts
- Bilstein Sports rear struts
-60mm I.D. x 150mm @ 450# front spring
-2.5" I.D. x 5" @ 650# rear spring (kinda pushing it on billy sports?)
-e36 318ti rear trailing arm, calipers, hubs, spindles, rotors, pads
-e32 735i 25mm master cylinder
-e21 320i brake booster
-e36 M3 Front Brakes
-96+ e36 M3 front control arms
-e30 m3 offset bushings
-Suspension Techniques Sway Bars 22mm (f)/19mm (r)
- aftermarket e30 m3 front endlinks
AKG Rear Diff Bushing
AKG Rear Sway Bar Reinforcement
AKG Front Sway Bar reinforcement
PowerFlex Urethane Rear Subframe Bushing
BMP Design Urethane trailing arm bushings
E30tech Rear Camber/Toe adjustment
Ireland Engineering SS Brake Lines
Ground Control rear pirch

Transmission/Driveline:
-Getrag 240 transmission
-Euro 323i Throughout Bearing (21-51-1-204-525)
-Clutch/single mass flywheel from M20 (eta)
-e36 M3 Dual Sheer Selector Rod (UUC motorwerks)
- UUC ERK (raises shiftor pivot) - to be welded to aluminum plate and bolted from inside car
-e36 5spd driveshaft with late model E30 center support bearing
-4.1 LSD



Wheels:
16 x 8" ET23 Style 4 w/ Toyo t-1r, 245/35/16

16 x 7" ET 20, Style 29, snows

Shake down

The car needed timing maintenance done, I'm sorry if i repeat myself as I made a couple threads on the forum and decided to make a build thread.


I pulled the plugs and the plug well 1,2 and 3 were flooded with a bit of oil enough to cover the bolt head of the plug.

Compression numbers where cylinder 1 is most forward on the engine

#1) 210 psi and holds

#2) 200 psi but dropped to 195 psi and holds

#3) 200 psi holds

#4) 210 psi but dropped to 206 psi and holds


engine was warmed up for a couple minutes (longer than 5, no more than 10) but was not at operational temperature. I have a check light and low on gas.

Regarding timing maintenance, I'm wondering if the block is worth it, or just to spring for a used m42 if i can find one locally. motor has 209,000 miles. But there is an M50 swap lined up locally for less than M42 timing maintenance...might spring for that option

Brakes Do Not Work

Fixed the rusted brake hardline. I have a feeling i'll be replacing a couple lines soon, POR15 and re-undercoat the car.

Rusted line


Have to disconnect it from the brake pressure regulator...what you don't see it?


there it is (already disconnected)...took an adjustable wrench and an 11mm, cramped hand and patience


Why my brakes didn't work


from the rear end


old line on top, brand new unbent line on bottom





This would have been 300x easier if the subframe and trailing arms were dropped, as well as the motor pulled out. I have a feeling i'll be revisiting this to make sure it's not rubbing anywhere once i finalize my brake conversion and motor swap.


Brake Preview





e36 m3 front brakes:

Diameter - 315mm(12.4")
Thickness - 28mm (1.1")

e30 Stock front brakes:
Diameter - 260mm (10.24")
Thickness - 22mm (0.87")


318ti being used for rears. I was going to reuse my trailing arms, but the cost of new bearings/spindles were twice as much as a set of used ti's i found locally.

Front Brake Conversion

I was initially going to use Koni Yellow's in e36M3 Housings (housings are for sale btw) but the Koni's were backordered for a month. I stumbled across a set of TC Kline D/A struts for $255 and couldn't resist. It was cheaper...



Before




Out with the old, in with the used


taking care of the sway reinforcement


I'm too embarrassed to post my blobby flux-wire welding skills

My ghetto camber kit, sourced some Grade 10.9 M12x1,75 30mm bolts









Picked up a set of style 29's locally. Tires far too large, but it was $200




Also picked up a set of style 4's

Rear Brake Conversion

Time to remove the driver side rear spring


..and like magic

"Who Needs Springs?" © Byron a.k.a E30SPDFRK, 2010


encountered some problems on the passenger side though...





Moving on....
I was able to take the subframe off by myself, but more problems surfaced


The driver side e-brake cable is very very stuck. I'm about to cut it and forget it


Using FredK's methof of a 5/8" lag screw, The sleeve was successfully extracted on the driver side


Both my subframe bolts are bent however...




Right now, I'm waiting for some new subframe/trailing arm bushings to come in, then getting the toe/camber adjustment tabs welded onto the rear subframe. Ordered new subframe bolts and washers.




Rear Sway

New vs. Old




This was actually very difficult to mount, the holes in the mounts didn't want to line up for the bolt.


Bad shot, but does anyone know what this wire is for? It hangs in front of the sway bar but it's cut and taped off.

Rear Subframe/Trailing arms


While I am waiting on new subframe bolts, I wanted to take care of the welding required for the rear subframe and trailing arm.

First things first...prep the pieces for bushings and weld

Pyro






With the bushing burning, the sleeve heated up enough to melt the outer "skin" of rubber within the trailing arm. It slid right out and I burned the rest of the rubber out of the arm.


Cleaning up the tabs a little bit to get it prepped for welding


This tab had to be cut off before the welding, picture was taken mid prep



Huge thanks to Tom and Jay at Wicked Innovation in West Kingston, RI. They allowed me to use their tools and facility to let me accomplish this. Here's a couple photo's of Tom@Wicked Innovation, jigged the camber/toe adjusters and TIG welding them on.













My Bushings came in a lunchbox!


Brake Lines also came in


After the welding, I used POR15 on the trailing arms and subframe. My girlfriend is pretty pissed I used the bathtub to clean the parts. We don't have a spigot to use outside at our apartment.


POR15 drying up on the trailing arms (today)


I POR15'ed the subframe yesterday so here it is waiting with new bushings. The upper 'caps' ont he subframe bushings (purple) need to be trimmed to accomodate the cam-bolts.



I have no pictures to update with but with the help of FredK and SlapDash, the subframe, diff, and trailing arms went in within 30 minutes.

I had to replace a third brake hardline in the rear because of rot...but now they have all been replaced; new hard lines and SS lines.

Tomorrow morning i'll take a pic, and plan on bolting the rest of the suspension up. I will only have one ebrake as the driver side is stuck within the metal tube in the rear. It's not coming out or going back in. No idea how to address this.


I have to:
install rear struts
set rear coilover
bleed brakes
bolt up driveshaft
install axles
cross brace
install exhaust
install retaining washers for steering rack
replace front brake lines
bleed brakes

then this car runs/rolls!

I think i can handle most of that in a day.

During the fiasco of moving day fast approaching... I finished the car and was actually able to move to a new apartment. Here's a pic of the rear the day after FredK and SlapDash dropped by and helped a ton.






Just got 245/35r16 for the 16x8 et23's...it rolls! but engine runs like garbage, cluster doesn't work, mystery wires everywhere and i need to raise the rear a bit (and get aligned).





Went to FredK's place for a grill & chill. Saw the motor as he did a compression check

Compression (6 turns) - cylinders numbered from front of car to back.
#1 180 psi
#2 180 psi
#3 185 psi
#4 180 psi
#5 185 psi
#6 185 psi

The motor has critical maintenance performed 15k ago and the vanos was rebuilt 6k ago. It's in his daily driver so it hasn't been sitting as a mystery.

i'm stoked...S50b30US




This weekend will be a fun one...




Car as it sits (minus the iS lip that I just installed):

pulled the old motor out


new motor awaits










resurfaced/shaved/lightened flywheel




because i was using a 320i booster, i had to cut the pushrod which was m10 at the clevis...but the shaft is m12.

cut and beveled


threading


drilled the clevis out and tapped to 12mm (old on right, new on left)


shortened and all set!


Tom@WickedInnovation tigged the motor mount reinforcement plates, then the whole subframe got a slick coat of POR15


There was a bolt stuck in the frame that had snapped. Drilled it from the top and it backed itself out. Just chased the threads afterward and it was all gravy


flywheel and clutch mounted




car without a heart


ready to drop the motor in












I'm guiding and supporting the back end/trans while it's being lowered. Not subframes or trans crossmembers in place to aid in positioning. Once in place, the subframe/crossmembers were bolted from underneath and the engine lowered onto solid mounts






all set









I have to bolt the shifter up, driveshaft, get a new radiator and find a 506 or non-ews dme. but for now, i'm tired

I ordered a new center support bearing, circlip, and backing plate. I inadvertently got the early model CSB and it wont fit the chassis.

My radiator had a small crack in the endtank so i ordered an aluminum radiator, m/s50 rad hoses and will need to mount an expansion tank of some sort. Late model lower mounts are on their way

I am using an MZ3 shifter on m3/328 carrier and selector rod. It feels absolutely great. It is almost centered in the shifter cutout, but sits a bit more forward. It does not interfere with the chassis though, it gets close, but never touches so i'll live with it. The only problem is that the shifter/selector rod now sits right on the drive shaft. I'm hoping to take Dominic's advice and get a shifter cup from UUC to raise it up a bit.


Just ordered:

24 lb injectors
Bimmerworld HFM intake boot
540i 3.5" HFM
and a TRM chip




high flow maf, boot, and intake manifold mounted. Also got the radiator in today. Still waiting on injectors...need to figure out how to secure the overflow tank, and find out which hardlines are fuel supply/return/evap.

Exhaust needs to be welded, still waiting on shifter bits.

Enthusiasm and motivation are a bit slim....just getting tired

I have to figure out the o2 wiring as it's doing that idle/stumble/check engine when it sits, but is fine when driving.

Also may need to rebuild the vanos, it has a pretty good rattle.


So the carrier i was using for the shifter was just too short and fell out of the rear mount. Mount went missing. So....driving with the selector rods bouncing on the driveshaft was no fun. This is my budget 'dtm-style' shifter which you can make fun of all day, but it lets me shift without saying hello to my driveshaft.

I disassembled everything and punched out some of the perforated sheet metal. Drilled one hole where the interior mounting stub used to be.



I cut a piece of aluminum to roughly fit and chopped up a spare carrier i had laying around. Tom@WickedInnovation was able to weld it to the plate after a hole saw was used allowing the shifter to pass through.


The shifter I was trying to run initially; MZ3 that used to hit the driveshaft in normal configuration. Shown also is the UUC Effort Reduction Kit (ERK) which also positions the pivot a little higher.


The white and black bushings needed to be slotted to fit the shifter. Here is the white bushing installed


The UUC ERK shifter cup


UUC supplied some loctite (they are also very thorough and friendly folks)


aaand.....


The black bushing installed on the shifter (it wont fit over the body of the shifter hence a slit to be cut for install just above the pivot). The spring and retainer fits perfectly without mod.


I failed to photograph, but there is a large circlip that holds the assembly and spring compressed. Here is what it looks like completely finished.




installed




The throw is very nice and precise. I think because the ERK had actually positioned the shifter a little too high, it increased effort, but still feels really good. May or may not remove the ERK or just have an extension built for the bottom of the shifter if it clears the driveshaft. That being said, if you have the money and no access to someone who welds... just go out and spend the big bucks for a real shifter kit. I wish I could have purchased the UUC EVO3, but this was much cheaper for me. I need all my spending money as i'll be in germany for a year and i know you all want euro parts.







There was a rattly in the front of the Valve cover by the timing gears which concerned me. Cracking it open, one of the bolt heads was getting shredded ever so slightly.

Changed the oil immediately and didn't notice any substantial metalic particles floating around from worn bearings or anything. Just dark but transparant oil. We replaced the one bolt and snugged the rest down. But the Vanos clatter didn't go away.


The car went back under the scalpel


I ordered a $30 dollar vanos o-ring and seal and Fred had a spare vanos unit on standby.


Using his Cam lock blocks the Vanos was disassembled and reassembled using the new unit.


There was a nut that accidentally fell into the cylinder head (but luckily not through the galleries) and took a good part of 30 minutes to fish out. Gigantic reminder to block off every single port/hole with paper towel or something whenever doing any open valve work. What a scare



in any event, new vanos installed



I take back the comment about the car being slow. This is definitely faster than my girlfriends car (catless, tuned, stock turbo wrx motor in GC). But thats about to change as she's upgrading to  vf34 with 18g wheel.

The power delivery in the e30 is much smoother and theres no bog in the middle of the powerband. Torque whenever you want it, spins tires through a corner in second gear on a whim and is very very very easy to throttle steer with all the hardened/solid/urethane bushings. Throttle response is amazing with solid mounts.











all done






The total cost of this endeavor was around $5,500. This includes the cost of the car itself, suspension upgrades + associated bushings, brake upgrades, motor swap + associated components, two sets of wheels, summer and winter tires and exhaust work. It handles like a dream and throttle steering is predictable with all the urethane and solid bushings. I have taken the radio out as its useless with solid engine mounts. The sound and vibration of the motor is more than enough music for me. I'm going to miss driving it until i come home once in a while to visit friends/family.


I have my interview in München (Munich) on Tuesday for a position with BMW's Research and Innovations Center. Somewhere in the field of suspension technology hopefully. Then after I get back, I can't decide if i should leave the car alone and enjoy it as is. Or turbo it.

Nice work. if you were in the CONUS id try or offer to buy the old 4cyl from you. i need to finish my rx7 vert to sell it. i sold most of the 13b's parts, not many were usable without sig. expense. GL in your interview. let us know how it went k?  have fun in München

Wow, really impressive!  Good work 

Love the older Beemers.

Very nice, makes me miss my e28

ooʇ uoıssıɯsuɐɹʇ ןɐnuɐɯ ɐ sɐɥ ʇı puɐ ˙ןןǝʍ sɐ poɹʇoɥ ɐ sı ɹɐɔ ʇɐɥʇ ʎɐʍ ɹǝɥʇıǝ ˙5 ɐ ɹo sǝıɹǝs 3 ɐ ɹǝɥʇıǝ oʇuı 21ʌ ɐ uı uǝddɐʍs ʇɐɥʇ ǝqnʇnoʎ uo ʎnƃ ɐ sǝɹǝɥʇ ˙sdɐʍs ɹoɟ ʇɔǝɟɹǝd sɐʍ sǝıɹǝs 3 ןıן  ɥǝʇ ʇɥƃnoɥʇ sʎɐʍןɐ

Nice looking work.