Been trying to search the forum for the answers but can't come up with anything that has active links (ebay links that no longer exist.. ect.)

1) I just replaced my 96' cluster with that from an 05'... we rewired everything and soldered the old harness on so everything works (including taping the RH coil for the tach) but first the Tach backlight burned out, then the speedo backlight burned out. What to replace these with LEDS but didnt know if there was a "drop in" method. 2) I have incandescent turn lights but still switched to an electric relay. (originally bought it because I was switching to LEDS but had to many issues). The relay randomly clicks (including after I cancel a turn signal) and the turn signals only light up when i actually indicate... When I cancel the turn signal they don't light up even tho the relay clicks (So not really worried about this from a functioning standpoint) but can't figure out why power is still getting to the electrical relay.

Well I am retarded since half the answer was in the Wiki..
Been reading thru this
http://wiki.gstwins.com/index.php?n=Upgrades.LEDIndicators
I have a 96' that I put an 04' gauge cluster on (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=380345674919&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWNX%3AIT) I should be able to use the Post 2002 LEDS information correct? Or do I have to worry about the voltage and wattage.


Just found these http://cgi.ebay.com/2x-194-168-501-T10-5-SMD-White-5050-LED-Car-Light-Bulb-/140522678643?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item20b7cde973
Seem cheap as dirt..
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2x-T10-194-168-W5W-5-SMD-Car-Side-Wedge-LED-Light-Blue-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem20bae296b0QQitemZ140574365360QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories
Blue
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2X-Red-SMD-5-LED-194-168-T10-Car-Light-Bulb-Lamp-5050-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem3f0bcdb071QQitemZ270780969073QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories
Red

Figured I would post all the links so there was a more updated one.


Little confused on the 4 indicator lights tho.. it says #74 but also T6.5... Will a T5 not fit Like this one http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2-x-Super-WHITE-T5-74-1-Chip-SMD-Dashboard-LED-Car-Bulb-/120664913134?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1c183074ee

Just ended up going with Superbrightleds.com and got 2 of the WLED-5x and 3 of the 74-x... Called them up and they confirmed all the base #74 are polarized so just going to replace all but the turn signal indicator and just hope that doesn't burn out anytime soon.

So while you were ordering from them you didn't order the non-polarized ones for the turn signal?  
The WLED-5x and 6x are non-polarized    as are the WLED-xLX

Indicators will look better if you ordered LEDs of the same color as the plastic cap. White LEDs will wash out the color and not look as good.
Instruments work good with the xHP5 (cool white, warm white or amber I like best). Others work, too. The brightness will vary depending on which one you use in the instruments as the light has to bounce around sideways inside to illuminate the dial. I haven't tried the 5x for instruments. The hole is small so I don't know if the 5x will fit, but probably will with a little fidgeting.

All LEDs can be polarized on the GS except for the turn signal. You can use a polarized for turn signal if you throw in 2 diodes and a ground wire. Ground is on all the other bulbs. The 2 diodes connect the turn signal wires together to run the polarized LED. Therefore you don't have much wiring to do in you go that route. Still, easier to get a non-polarized LED in amber or green (depending on your plastic cap color).

I have a box full of all their wedge based LEDs because I use them in my yard lights as well. Its fun to experiment and see now different ones look.

I have also used these from LEDLight for instruments
http://www.ledlight.com/t10-wedge-concave-led-light.aspx

Quote from: adidasguy on July 25, 2011, 12:10:26 PM
So while you were ordering from them you didn't order the non-polarized ones for the turn signal?  
The WLED-5x and 6x are non-polarized    as are the WLED-xLX

Indicators will look better if you ordered LEDs of the same color as the plastic cap. White LEDs will wash out the color and not look as good.
Instruments work good with the xHP5 (cool white, warm white or amber I like best). Others work, too. The brightness will vary depending on which one you use in the instruments as the light has to bounce around sideways inside to illuminate the dial. I haven't tried the 5x for instruments. The hole is small so I don't know if the 5x will fit, but probably will with a little fidgeting.

All LEDs can be polarized on the GS except for the turn signal. You can use a polarized for turn signal if you throw in 2 diodes and a ground wire. Ground is on all the other bulbs. The 2 diodes connect the turn signal wires together to run the polarized LED. Therefore you don't have much wiring to do in you go that route. Still, easier to get a non-polarized LED in amber or green (depending on your plastic cap color).

I have a box full of all their wedge based LEDs because I use them in my yard lights as well. Its fun to experiment and see now different ones look.

The WLED-5X is for the instrument cluster.. went with the 5x instead of the 6x because the 5x has a 220 degree difussion angle whilet he 6x has like a 35deg angle....
Was told the 5x wouldn't fit in the indicators holes.. had to be a T5/T6.5 or #74 base... Totally forgot about getting colors and got all white May replace them down the road...
As for your suggestion on modifying the wiring for the turn signal...
That is actually genius and would be simple to implement at the wiring harness... Simply cut the 2 wires that lead to the turn signal illuminator... put a diode on each wire and then tie them both into 1 of the wires leading to the bulb.. then tie the other wire leading to the bulb into a ground...
May buy color bulbs to replace the white ones and do that...

http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/store/index.cgi?action=DispPage&category=CAR&Page2Disp=%2Fspecs%2FWLED-xLX.htm
http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/store/index.cgi?action=DispPage&Page2Disp=%2Fspecs%2FWLED-x6.htm
These work well in the indicator holes and are non-polarized.

For the instruments, the light bounces all over the place inside. There is a metal plate at the tip of where the bulb goes so it doesn't make a bright point on the dial face. So, most any bright LED will bounce around enough inside to illuminate the dial face. A narrow angle LED will hit the metal plate and start bouncing the light around. Side firing will hit the sides and bounce around. Nothing directly shines on the dials. The light bounces around inside the white plastic housing. Quite a few different LEDs work in the instruments. The difference is the final brightness.

Maybe I should put together kits of all the LEDs?   (as soon as I finish the bike cave)
I've got enough extras for 5 to 10 kits.

Any cheap diode like a a couple 1n4001's, soldering iron and some heat shrink tubing would work. Probably under a dollar to do it.

Quote from: adidasguy on July 25, 2011, 01:05:36 PM
http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/store/index.cgi?action=DispPage&category=CAR&Page2Disp=%2Fspecs%2FWLED-xLX.htm
http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/store/index.cgi?action=DispPage&Page2Disp=%2Fspecs%2FWLED-x6.htm
These work well in the indicator holes and are non-polarized.

For the instruments, the light bounces all over the place inside. There is a metal plate at the tip of where the bulb goes so it doesn't make a bright point on the dial face. So, most any bright LED will bounce around enough inside to illuminate the dial face. A narrow angle LED will hit the metal plate and start bouncing the light around. Side firing will hit the sides and bounce around. Nothing directly shines on the dials. The light bounces around inside the white plastic housing. Quite a few different LEDs work in the instruments. The difference is the final brightness.

Maybe I should put together kits of all the LEDs?   (as soon as I finish the bike cave)
I've got enough extras for 5 to 10 kits.

Any cheap diode like a a couple 1n4001's, soldering iron and some heat shrink tubing would work. Probably under a dollar to do it.

Can you please update the wiki http://wiki.gstwins.com/index.php?n=Upgrades.LEDIndicators
That is where I took all the information from.

If the WLED-XLX fit the indicators, shouldn't need the diode although i did find a problem switching out to LED turn signals.
Since the indicator requires that you ground out thru the turn signal you do not wish to utilize, this is still high enough to signal the LED...
I switched to an electronic relay and when i wired the LED turn signals, no matter what way i pressed the switch to indicate, both sides lit up...

According to the wiki the base is wrong for the indicator lights.

The same T10 base works for gauges, indicators and my Malibu yard lights.
Problem is some lights/LEDs are larger diameter and don't fit. I've found the T10 base to be the same for all of them.
LED technology changes fast so keeping up to date might be tricky. My new bike cave is all LED lighting - even the 4' tubes went LED (but $9 shop fixtures and in one minute remove the ballast & reconnect the ends directly to the AC and you're done.) though 4' tubes are now about $65 each - they don't flicker or buzz when its cold.

LED turn signals load the flasher relay so that's the problem there: not enough load and the flasher won't work right because most are a bi-metal strip that heats up and flexes with the current going through it to turn signals on and off. Different current and it works at a different rate. The turn signal indicator is virtually nothing in terms of load so that won't make any noticeable difference in the flash rate. That's the reason for needing an electronic flasher relay.

Quote from: adidasguy on July 25, 2011, 02:48:34 PM
The same T10 base works for gauges, indicators and my Malibu yard lights.
Problem is some lights/LEDs are larger diameter and don't fit. I've found the T10 base to be the same for all of them.
LED technology changes fast so keeping up to date might be tricky. My new bike cave is all LED lighting - even the 4' tubes went LED (but $9 shop fixtures and in one minute remove the ballast & reconnect the ends directly to the AC and you're done.) though 4' tubes are now about $65 each - they don't flicker or buzz when its cold.

LED turn signals load the flasher relay so that's the problem there: not enough load and the flasher won't work right because most are a bi-metal strip that heats up and flexes with the current going through it to turn signals on and off. Different current and it works at a different rate. The turn signal indicator is virtually nothing in terms of load so that won't make any noticeable difference in the flash rate. That's the reason for needing an electronic flasher relay.

Problem with the electronic flasher is that since the indicator in the gauge cluster uses the opposite side to ground thru, you may have a 9.5V across on flasher and the other side experiences 9V after it passes thru the indicator you wanted to flash + the gauge indicator... on LEDs 9V is still enough to light the side you are grounding thru... atleast that is my opinion of what happened.

That could be possible if everything went LED (including turn signals) since current goes through the turn signal indicator between the left and right sides.
Using 2 diodes would prevent that.
You are right that LEDs are more current oriented than voltage. As long as there is enough current, they go on and 12v ones probably anywhere from 8 to 15 volts (I should test that on my bench breadboard thingy with all the voltages , dials & meters.)

Once the bike cave is done I'll have a clean area to do lots of testing on things.

The 5x LED will fit into the instruments - but you have fuggle it in as it is slightly bigger than the hole. Go in at a slight angle to get 2 side LEDs in then push the rest of the way in. I found I had some and checked it out.

Trivia:
Q: How do you make a white LED? A: You make a UV LED then apply a phosphor over it that emits white light when excited by UV (similar to how florescent lamps work)

Q: How can you tell if an LED is a white LED without applying power? A: Shine a black light, UV LED or Blue LED on it. The chip will glow yellow to orange because the phosphor on it is excited by the UV causing it to emit visible light.

Q: If you put an LED in your instrument indicators (let's say the green one) Which will be brighter: A white LED of 10 lumens or a green LED of 5 lumens? A: The green one. A White LED emits a little over 3 lumens of green, 3 of red and 3 of blue so a green plastic cap will block the red and blue, giving you 3 lumens of green where a pure green LED of 5 lumens will give you 5 lumens of light. That's why it is best to use an LED of the color of the plastic cap it goes under, rather than white.
Actually, the caps are not perfect filters. A little red and blue will go through a green cap, thus washing out the color and look like a faded green. use a green LED under a green cap and it will be a very rich green. Use red under red and blue under blue. If you have amber for turn signals, use amber for that.

UV LED shining on an assortment. White? (counting left to right) 2,3,4,6 and 8

Quote from: adidasguy on July 26, 2011, 02:05:24 AM
The 5x LED will fit into the instruments - but you have fuggle it in as it is slightly bigger than the hole. Go in at a slight angle to get 2 side LEDs in then push the rest of the way in. I found I had some and checked it out.

Trivia:
Q: How do you make a white LED? A: You make a UV LED then apply a phosphor over it that emits white light when excited by UV (similar to how florescent lamps work)

Q: How can you tell if an LED is a white LED without applying power? A: Shine a black light, UV LED or Blue LED on it. The chip will glow yellow to orange because the phosphor on it is excited by the UV causing it to emit visible light.

Q: If you put an LED in your instrument indicators (let's say the green one) Which will be brighter: A white LED of 10 lumens or a green LED of 5 lumens? A: The green one. A White LED emits a little over 3 lumens of green, 3 of red and 3 of blue so a green plastic cap will block the red and blue, giving you 3 lumens of green where a pure green LED of 5 lumens will give you 5 lumens of light. That's why it is best to use an LED of the color of the plastic cap it goes under, rather than white.
Actually, the caps are not perfect filters. A little red and blue will go through a green cap, thus washing out the color and look like a faded green. use a green LED under a green cap and it will be a very rich green. Use red under red and blue under blue. If you have amber for turn signals, use amber for that.

UV LED shining on an assortment. White? (counting left to right) 2,3,4,6 and 8

You really should create a kit, or atleast a list of the exact models that function better in the gauge cluster and then update the wiki with it..
It is easier to be told... This this and that fit in here and there and work the best.. done.

You are positive the X6 will fit into the gauge indicator spots? Going to order 1 red, 2 green and 1 blue if you are...
Atleast that is what my caps appear to be http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=380345674919&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWNX%3AIT <- that is the cluster i bought

I could put together a kit and you can tell me if you like it. 

Quote from: adidasguy on July 26, 2011, 10:21:41 AM
I could put together a kit and you can tell me if you like it. 

That would work.

OK. Good thing I have a couple bikes. Seems the "E" bikes use standard T-10 wedge base lamps (same as the gauges). On the "F" they went to the mini wedge base and made the holes smaller.

Well, I didn't like the brightness of the mini wedge LEDs I have so I shaved down the edges of the base on a T-10 and they did fit. Tight - but did fit.

I'm going to do more work this weekend on Suzi's indicators that are now LED and see what ones can fit with a little shaving down.

You can see how I shaved them down a little to fit. It needs a little more work to get it exact but it did work. Because the fit was tight, I put a drop of super glue on the bulb to lock it into the rubber socket.

Bulbs came in Worked awesome... Only one not changed is the turn signal.. and the bulbs in the indicators will be changed in the near future.. but the clear ones aren't half bad...

Also looking into accent light options...
Would it be better to go with a 7 inch SMD tube like
http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/store/index.cgi?action=DispPage&category=ACCENTS&Page2Disp=%2Fspecs%2FSMD_LED_tube.htm#photos

or
the mcm accent series
http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/store/index.cgi?action=DispPage&category=ACCENTS&Page2Disp=%2Fspecs%2Fmcm.htm

or
The lux3
http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/store/index.cgi?action=DispPage&Page2Disp=%2Fspecs%2Fals.htm

Those look OK.
Seems they changed the indicator lights in 2004. The gauges are still T10 base lamps.
Still working on the best solution for 2004+ indicators.
Pre 2004 already taken care of.
The shaved LEDs are working fine is Suzi. So maybe shave down a T10 bipolar LED for your turn signal or use 2 diodes and a regular mini wedge LED.

this is what i'm going to put on the Neutral Bulb and Turn Signal Indicator Bulb



i know with the Turn Signal Indicator Bulb, it has to be Non-Polarized
though the LED Bulb that i got is Polarized but i'm putting a RECTIFIER Chip that can be bought from
any RadioShack or electronic Store, this one:



its called: Full-Wave Bridge Rectifier, and last time i checked it was $2.19 on my Local RadioShack Store

doesn't matter what polarity you put in the input, the output stays the same

Once i get my LED, then i'll buy this one and let you know if it works or not
most likely tonight...

Those LEDs work fine. Only problem has been that 2004+ they changed the bulb size in the indicators from T10 to a mini wedge. Non-polarized amber and green (or any color) are easy to get in standard T10 but haven't found them for the mini wedge yet.

Mini-wedge LEDs are smaller and generally not as bright as T10 size. Some of the T10 ones are blindingly bright.

As I mentioned, I shaved down some T10's for use in Suzi (a 2009) and they're working fine. I have some mini wedge ones coming in that might be non-polarized. I do have other mini's but didn't like the brightness which is why I shaved down T10's to fit in the sockets. The other thing Suzuki did was make the inner hole smaller. Inside the housing there is a hole that helps support the bulb. Had to enlarge that a little for the non-polarized LED as it was longer in length and slightly too big. It is a smaller hole than the hole the rubber socket goes in. It is interesting to discover the subtle differences between different years of GS500's.

Full wave bridge works as well as 2 diodes. With the full wave bridge, you won't need to locate a ground. Just connect turn signal lines to inputs. Connect the + and - outputs to the LED. It will work just fine.

One other interesting idea: rewire things a little. Drill an extra hole to mount a green LED for neutral. Then use the 2 green ones (neutral and turn) for a left and right turn signal indicator. Then you don't need non-polarized LEDs and you can know which way you have your flashers going. If I do that, I'd move the caps so the turn signals are on the far left and right, with oil and high in the middle 2 positions.

Quote from: adidasguy on August 01, 2011, 05:58:35 PM
Those LEDs work fine. Only problem has been that 2004+ they changed the bulb size in the indicators from T10 to a mini wedge. Non-polarized amber and green (or any color) are easy to get in standard T10 but haven't found them for the mini wedge yet.

Mini-wedge LEDs are smaller and generally not as bright as T10 size. Some of the T10 ones are blindingly bright.

As I mentioned, I shaved down some T10's for use in Suzi (a 2009) and they're working fine. I have some mini wedge ones coming in that might be non-polarized. I do have other mini's but didn't like the brightness which is why I shaved down T10's to fit in the sockets. The other thing Suzuki did was make the inner hole smaller. Inside the housing there is a hole that helps support the bulb. Had to enlarge that a little for the non-polarized LED as it was longer in length and slightly too big. It is a smaller hole than the hole the rubber socket goes in. It is interesting to discover the subtle differences between different years of GS500's.

Full wave bridge works as well as 2 diodes. With the full wave bridge, you won't need to locate a ground. Just connect turn signal lines to inputs. Connect the + and - outputs to the LED. It will work just fine.

One other interesting idea: rewire things a little. Drill an extra hole to mount a green LED for neutral. Then use the 2 green ones (neutral and turn) for a left and right turn signal indicator. Then you don't need non-polarized LEDs and you can know which way you have your flashers going. If I do that, I'd move the caps so the turn signals are on the far left and right, with oil and high in the middle 2 positions.

According to the engineer at superbrightled (called one the other day) they can't make a non-polarized #74 led... Think a shaved down T10 is probably the best way to go.

What about trying a smaller bulb like http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/store/index.cgi?action=DispPage&Page2Disp=%2Fspecs%2FWLED-x.htm


If the T10 is to much a pain I can easily add a full wave rectifier to my console harness (it is already soldered at the contact points to attach to the gs500e harness so simply removing the solder and re soldering the rectifier in..
Gotta buy the correct colors this time tho.

Edit:
Hell I might just go ahead and add the full wave rectifier... gives me an excuse to buy a new variable wattage soldiering iron (my old 35 watt is burned out)