Is it pretty straight forward after lapping the new valve?

or do I need a tool to compress the springs or whatever?

quote from my troubleshooting thread

QuoteIn my situation, I had a whole other top end to put on (jug, and head with good valves) so I didn't do the individual valves. That part you linked looked like it's compatible. I know you're going to need a spring compression tool to get the valve springs compressed enough to release the clip on the top of the valve, and to get the new one in. Otherwise, just follow the steps in the manual.

I've yet to take the top of the motor out and see if I can remove the bottom of the valve as it is.

Have no tool but if I do need a spring compressor, just going to possibly take the new buckets, exhaust valve (after possibly lapping it myself) and engine top to a local garage that I know are good and honest. (little harley shop by my dads)
if they can even do it that is, and depending on the cost.

so, can I just lap the new valve and put it back together or do I need a special tool? (not counting the material for lapping the valve)

First time doing this and yet to get the parts, so I have no idea what I am doing "just yet".

thanks

Unless you have a valve spring compressor, you will be hard pressed to remove it without fabricating some rube goldbergy thing.

The following is the easiest way I can think of doing it without the tool, but may take longer than buying one! 

Ive never seen it done on a bike, but when work is done on reciprocating engine planes, pulling the jug requires significant work and paperwork, so the string method is used.

-in this case, you would pull the valve cover, both camshafts, and the tappets and shims, keep em organized
-next, after pulling the plug in the respective cylinder, bring it to BDC, then start feeding 1/4" rope into it, until its 1/2 full or so of the rope.
-Bring as close to TDC as possible, dont torque it though.
-lock the crankshaft by whatever means possible
-now with any type of pushy/levery tool you can think of, compress the valve springs, and remove them.
- now, with the rope in there, the valve stays put!

I know you're going to have to pull the head anyways, but if you ever want to replace the springs later or valve seals or whatever, now you can save time and gaskets!

Along the lines of the rope trick, if you are just changing a valve spring you can get an adapter to fill the cylinder with compressed air to hold the valve shut.

Since you are going to have to pull the head to change the valve, neither of those methods matter.  Removing the spring is easy, just find a socket that is about the size of the spring retainer and whack it with a hammer.  The spring keeper ("valve cotter" in Suzuki lingo) will pop out in a whack or two.  Make sure you don't lose the 2 halves.  You will need a valve spring compressor tool for re-assembly though.  If you don't have one already, buy or download a repair manual for specific details.

Adfalchius is supposed to be disassembling a GS engine to replace the valve seals and piston rings next Saturday, hopefully we will shoot a video of it.  Good luck with yours   

-Jessie

Thought of you today Tombstone:  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uOAGx1867sk

Since you have a broken valve you may need to put the broken end back in the seat to get this method to work.  All you need is a 19mm socket and a hammer     Re-assembly will require a valve spring compressor tool.  Good luck!

-Jessie


Cylinder head with the shim and bucket removed



The valve, valve spring, spring retainer and spring keeper/cotter once removed

When I replaced the broken exhaust valve on my 02 GS the head of the valve with a part of the stem was laying loose on the piston when the the head was lifted.  I could not budge the tight bucket at all to remove it so I took a long pin punch and drove the remaining part of the valve stem back up thru the guide from inside of head and drove out the bucket, springs, and keepers all together and they all fell apart when out of course.  I did the reassembly of the new valve and bucket with a borrowed valve spring compressor.

I used the spring compressor to remove the intake valve from the same cylinder since it had a small nick on the edge and so I could lap in both valves for that cylinder to make sure they both had good seal.  I got some valve lapping compound and lapped in the valves by just turnning them with my thumb, didn't bother getting one of those lapping tools with the suction cups.  Both valves lapped in quickly and easily.  I didn't touch the 2 valves on the other cylinder since the engine only had 21k miles on it then and now it has 91k miles with no further engine trouble.

Here's the valve spring tool I use.  It is pretty much just a big fancy C-clamp   

-Jessie

I'm working on that stuff today. I know I should bring out the camera but am more interested in getting Flick going. I will ask the BF though what we are doing and maybe snap a few pics!

Mary

you guys and gals are awesome!
Some serious Karma for everyone! (and I dont mean the forum numbers!)

but, getting pretty much a replacement top end from Cbrfxr67
http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=58225.msg668364#new
posted in recent replies on my build thread.

and I should have taken the top of my motor out before ordering a new bucket and exhaust valve.

the head on the inside of the valves got dinged up too.
I honestly didnt expect the bottom to have come out.
which it did and dinged up that and messed the piston up good


so if the parts and head from cbr works, then I didnt need to order the valve and bucket.

but at least I learned how to install new ones tho and have an extra one if I ever need it, or anyone else.

appreciate everything from everyone on here tho