Hi folks,

Rebuilt the GS this winter and at literally 99% complete I've encountered a showstopping snag.

After getting the clutch lever all situated and adjusted, with the clutch lever pulled in I am unable to roll forward in first gear without significant force. I've adjusted everything IAW the manual and common sense with no real change.

I have reset all adjustments, backed out the clutch release screw adjuster and then turned in until I connect with the clutch pushrod and then backed it out 1/4-1/2 turns. I then adjust both the sidecover adjustment and handlebar adjustment to remove slack from the lever until I get the desired freeplay. This doesn't allow me to roll forward with the clutch in. If I turn in the release mechanism adjustment screw 2-3 more times, I get the desired response with the clutch in but also with the clutch out as it's engaging the pushrod enough to engage the clutch.

I've looked at the worm gear and the ball bearing housing and discovered three of the 11 (?) ball bearings in the sleeve are missing although I can't imagine this would contribute to the unserviceability I am experiencing as the worm gear still seemingly operates as it should. It seems it would simply cause a bit more friction in the mechanism but not cause a failure as I am experiencing.

I know the clutch itself is fine as I am able to adjust the release mechanism to operate the clutch.

I am at a loss here and exceptionally frustrated. Please help!

Try GSJacks method to adjust -

http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=59361.msg679741#msg679741

http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=59173.msg676066#msg676066

Carried out IAW his directions with no significant change. When the clutch is pulled there is still substantial resistance. Not enough that the tire drags over the floor mind you, but I have a feeling if I started the bike there'd be power to the rear wheel with the clutch pulled in.

Maybe the plates are binding? Someone else will chime in who knows what is going on.

Quote from: Twisted on March 24, 2012, 04:38:42 PM
Maybe the plates are binding? Someone else will chime in who knows what is going on.

I thought that could possibly be a problem but I am able to screw in the mechanism adjustment on the sprocket cover (to press the clutch pushrod) and get free movement of the wheel in 1st.

I had a similar issue, my clutch hub nut came loose and kept backing its way off. Constant adjustment, difficulty shifting gears, until I pulled out my dip stick and gently pryed on the transfer gear behind the clutch assembly. Mine moved almost a quarter inch. It should have very minimal, meaning barely discernable play. After pulling it apart, tightening nut and replacing lock washer all has been well.

What he said ^
also did you replace the push rods, clutch plates? Are they in spec?

Quote from: knowles on March 24, 2012, 05:29:13 PM
What he said ^
also did you replace the push rods, clutch plates? Are they in spec?

The engine wasn't opened past the valve cover during the rebuild and it operated fine prior to taking it off the road for the winter.

Someone might have before you, when i bought mine they said that they put a new clutch in it. they didnt put the lock washer clutch shaft, so the nut spun loose . i had to replace the whole clutch basket, and clutch cover after having it for less than a year. did you change the oil? might have the plates sticking.

Quote from: knowles on March 24, 2012, 06:30:22 PM
Someone might have before you, when i bought mine they said that they put a new clutch in it. they didnt put the lock washer clutch shaft, so the nut spun loose . i had to replace the whole clutch basket, and clutch cover after having it for less than a year. did you change the oil? might have the plates sticking.

That doesn't explain why it would work last fall and not now, but I'll check into it.

I put new oil in it this morning. Also, I'm able to disengage the clutch by overadjusting the clutch release mechanism so I know the plates aren't stuck.

I'm going to start it up tomorrow and get the oil hot to see how the clutch responds I think.

That's probably all it is, cold heavy oil driving it.  Put a GS on the centerstand cold in cold weather and start it up in neutral and the heavy oil will drive thru the transmission and keep the rear wheel turning even while holding the clutch in too.  Just starting up on cold days with bike on ground if you are in neutral holding the clutch in the bike will sometime jump forward when you click it into first while still holding the clutch in unless you are holding the brake.  Should still operate properly after warmed up a bit if it did so before you shut it down for the winter work.  I do a lot of cold winter startups riding year around here in NE Ohio.

Jacob - Did you ever find the cause of your issue?

I'm experiencing something similar - bike was acting fine until about a week ago when I noticed some drag on the wheel with the clutch pulled in.  I got the bike home, did the 3 point clutch adjustment and the cable snapped.

So, it had sat in the garage until the new cable arrived in the mail today.  I installed it, adjusted it and crossed my fingers that it would solve my troubles.  Alas - I'm now having the same issue you were.  Pulling in the clutch moves the release mechanism, but the clutch won't engage.  If I tighten the release mechanism screw all the way in, then the clutch stays engaged, so I'm assuming it's not the plates sticking.  The oil was just changed 100 miles ago, so I don't think that's my problem either.