That pic you posted looks like they removed the top plate completely and put the clip-ons above the top triple clamp. Problem is then, as you can see in the pic, where to mount the dash. Looks like that person just bolted a couple pieces of metal to the clamp and the dash to them but kinda looks unstable to me.

@Phil - if I pull the bars towards me, do I need to drill any new holes into the bar for the electrical components? Did you need to adjust any of the components (brake, clutch, horn, etc) on the bars?

Quote from: wildcat333 on February 28, 2012, 12:15:34 PM
@Phil - if I pull the bars towards me, do I need to drill any new holes into the bar for the electrical components? Did you need to adjust any of the components (brake, clutch, horn, etc) on the bars?

no drill. just something to pry the caps off, and the right sized hex wrench.

You cant actually "adjust" them, since they are fixed in place, by the little plastic stick, that fits into the factory drilled hole for them :-}

But I didnt find the need to adjust them anyway. we're only talking a 45degree tilt. Everything is more or less the same.

Dont be shy, just try it out! if you dont like, tilt em back, and the bike is non the worse.

One thing I *would* suggest, though:
actually ride with em one time afer the adjustment. Dont just look at it, and say to yourself, "oh, that doesnt look like it made any difference at all, may as well just put em back...
*Try it*.

I was amazed at how different it felt, while looking almost identical.
We're talking probably only 2-3 inches of bar-end movement, so it looks and feels like nothing when you're adjusting. But a world of difference when you're riding.

Quote from: Phil B on February 28, 2012, 02:43:45 PM

Quote from: wildcat333 on February 28, 2012, 12:15:34 PM
@Phil - if I pull the bars towards me, do I need to drill any new holes into the bar for the electrical components? Did you need to adjust any of the components (brake, clutch, horn, etc) on the bars?

no drill. just something to pry the caps off, and the right sized hex wrench.

You cant actually "adjust" them, since they are fixed in place, by the little plastic stick, that fits into the factory drilled hole for them :-}

But I didnt find the need to adjust them anyway. we're only talking a 45degree tilt. Everything is more or less the same.

Dont be shy, just try it out! if you dont like, tilt em back, and the bike is non the worse.

One thing I *would* suggest, though:
actually ride with em one time afer the adjustment. Dont just look at it, and say to yourself, "oh, that doesnt look like it made any difference at all, may as well just put em back...
*Try it*.

I was amazed at how different it felt, while looking almost identical.
We're talking probably only 2-3 inches of bar-end movement, so it looks and feels like nothing when you're adjusting. But a world of difference when you're riding.

I'd definitely like to see this.  I've got superbike bars right now, but I'd really like a sportier setup.  Now I'm wondering if I could just rotate them a bit.. 

If not, I'm probably going to go with clubmans, solely for the price.

Looking at the picture of "superbike bars" on the wiki... ironically, you'd be better of with stock bars, for the rotation trick. since superbike bars are "flatter", you'll get less benefit from the rotation

Bah.. l'm a forgetful fellow.. i may never remember to photo these tings during day time. So here's some bad nighttime pics

FROM ABOVE: (directly above bars, looking "straight down")

From RIDER's head perspective:




For best results, first loosen bars... then turn fork all the way left... then rotate till they touch the tank.. then rotate them a bit away from you so you have room for fingers and horn doesnt honk


Oh!  the one thing that CAN be simply adjusted, I think I may have adjusted:  I think I slightly re-rotated the position of brake and clutch levers. Those are free to rotate once you losen the nut/bolt or whatever, I think.
The stuff like indicator and ignition controls are not free to rotate around the bars, though. One and only one position they fit into.

Keep in mind, if you do the above trick to get the bars as close to the tank as possible w/o touching, that WHEN you go down, the bars have less space to bend before they nik your tank.

Just sayin.

Quote from: xunedeinx on February 29, 2012, 12:27:33 AM
Keep in mind, if you do the above trick to get the bars as close to the tank as possible w/o touching, that WHEN you go down, the bars have less space to bend before they nik your tank.

Just sayin.

Yikes. Ugh.

Quote from: xunedeinx on February 29, 2012, 12:27:33 AM
Keep in mind, if you do the above trick to get the bars as close to the tank as possible w/o touching, that WHEN you go down, the bars have less space to bend before they nik your tank.

Just sayin.

Iif you care about that sort of thing, then get frame sliders. (PROPER ONES) or engine protector thingamajiggers.
They hit the pavement before your bars do.

"problem" solved.

...added a few more pictures of the new-old-stock I found and the note that they do not interfere with the "F" fairings.

http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=59176.msg676469#msg676469

I had clip ons mounted under the top clamp on my F model. I had to machine a bushing to that goes under the the top clamp and the steering stem, you would also need a longer bolt to finish the mod. Bar sat about a 1/2 lower than if the bars were on top. Fork were lower to where I liked them. The way I built my gs it would fall into the turn with little effort, made it fly in the canyons. And to answer mr.mcninja or what ever the name was we do stuff to our bikes cause we can, we mod to make the bike their own.