I'm a noob and I know my terminology is probably WAY OFF, but I need some help gentlemen (and ladies)...

I've taken off the odometer/speedometer cable (which ever one is on the left side of the bike?)
I've removed the caliper and secured it with a ziptie...
I've slackened the fork bolt on the right side of the forks...

Last step is to remove the axle bolt correct?  I've been cranking on that thing and it is stiff!!  It will budge, but only if I lightly hit the socket wrench with a rubber mallet.  So I did for a bit, but it didn't really change... it remains stiff and I can't budge it by using socket wrenches alone. 

Am I doing something wrong?  Did I forget a step?  Is there an easier way with primitive tools?

I appreciate any information.  I'm desperately trying to get the wheel off so I can remove the fender, but I don't want to damage anything by trying to "force" it off.

Thanks in advance,

-Mike

You sound good, other than you didn't say you removed the axle nut. The axle has it's own head, and on the opposite end it's threaded and has a nut and cotter pin.  Remove the pin and nut, and then tap the axle out. You'll have to find something that's the same size or smaller as the axle to tap it out with.  Sometimes you have to hit the tap as far in as the inside of the rim, but usually it will come out easily if the rim and fork holes are lined up.

I had to do the same thing to get the castle nut off since I don't have an impact wrench, that sucker was on there good. Once you get the castle nut off though if you just support the front wheel a bit to get the weight off the axle it should just slide right out.

Isn't there a pinch bolt on the bottom of the fork as well ?

Only on one side, and it doesn't put pressure on the axle.

Quote from: lucky4034 on June 04, 2012, 06:59:28 PM
I'm a noob and I know my terminology is probably WAY OFF, but I need some help gentlemen (and ladies)...

I've taken off the odometer/speedometer cable (which ever one is on the left side of the bike?)
I've removed the caliper and secured it with a ziptie...
I've slackened the fork bolt on the right side of the forks...

Last step is to remove the axle bolt correct?  I've been cranking on that thing and it is stiff!!  It will budge, but only if I lightly hit the socket wrench with a rubber mallet.  So I did for a bit, but it didn't really change... it remains stiff and I can't budge it by using socket wrenches alone. 

Am I doing something wrong?  Did I forget a step?  Is there an easier way with primitive tools?

I appreciate any information.  I'm desperately trying to get the wheel off so I can remove the fender, but I don't want to damage anything by trying to "force" it off.

Thanks in advance,

-Mike

You must completely remove the nut which has the cotter pin through it (TIP: use a breaker bar or something of the like to start thread rotation).  Once that nut is completely removed, then attempt to remove the axle using a rubber mallet to start moving it by hitting the bolt from the same side you removed the nut, and then pull it the rest of the way out (TIP: support the tire before tapping the axle out to relieve the added forces from the weight of the tire).  There shouldn't be a need to hit the axle with a rubber mallet over the top of the socket wrench if the nut has been completely removed (TIP: Lube your axle before putting it back on)

Here is a video which shows how another member removed the front wheel (TIP: Rims scratch really easily against ANY other metal object, so be careful)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RcwHQw7Ou20

- Bboy

You guys are great    Thanks!

I'd rather look like a newb and ask then do something to damage the bike.

Cheers,

Mike

Guy used a vice grip............really...............come on

lol, I didn't say that is how you should do it... just shows how he did it (Just shows the difficulty level of removing the axle for someone else = the take-home for the OP)
<.<
>.>

- Bboy

I use channel locks for the back castle nut because I don't have a socket big enough for it.  Vise Grips seems a little odd though...  I'm not really worried about ruining the nut considering it's a $1 or $2 part at the hardware store.

Quote from: bombsquad83 on June 05, 2012, 07:24:11 AM
I use channel locks for the back castle nut because I don't have a socket big enough for it.  Vise Grips seems a little odd though...  I'm not really worried about ruining the nut considering it's a $1 or $2 part at the hardware store.

if you carry a pipe wrench everywhere you go, keep on using those channel locks !

Quote from: ohgood on June 05, 2012, 10:46:55 AM

Quote from: bombsquad83 on June 05, 2012, 07:24:11 AM
I use channel locks for the back castle nut because I don't have a socket big enough for it.  Vise Grips seems a little odd though...  I'm not really worried about ruining the nut considering it's a $1 or $2 part at the hardware store.

if you carry a pipe wrench everywhere you go, keep on using those channel locks !

I don't know about you, but everywhere I go channel locks are a lot more likely to find then a 22 mm socket.  That nut is not supposed to be torqued down so tight that you can't get it off without a death grip on a set of channel locks anyway (36-58 ft-lbs, quite the range isn't it?).  I've used it several times and the nut looks just fine. 

To be fair, I'm aware that I'm cheap and lazy and I need to just go buy a 22 mm socket.

Are all GSs supposed to have castle nuts and cotter pins?

I bought my bike with 450 mi so I've pretty much had it since new and it doesn't have them front or rear.

I always torque them to spec but should I look to get new axles?

They have castle nuts here in the US, but self-locking nuts in Europe and possibly other countries.

Newer GS's have self locking nuts on front and rear axles. Older have castle nuts. I'm not sure what year they changed.

Yeah. I have a 2009 and they have self-locking nuts on front and rear. Took me a bit to figure out as all the write ups for chain adjustment, removing the front/rear tire, etc refer to removing the cotter pin.