Thanks guys.  I'm 99% certain I have one washer on the needle now, and I have a baggy full of em in the garage.  I'll stick another on each, reset to 3 turns out and see where we are at.

They do use a different needle in the uk. It has a c-clip with adjusting notches like the dynojet ones.

I cannot speak to the taper of the needle, however. 

I would love to know the stock number of that UK needle and needle jet so we could go to that set up, or determine how to approach it with washers.  Anyone know?

I'm not sure if I've fixed anything.  So I've replaced the exhaust gaskets, because I had checked the exhaust bolts and they were tight, so thought I would go the extra step.  I didn't notice anything wrong with them, other than just being old and used.  New and old below.



I added another washer under each needle, and reset the mixture screw to 3 turns.  Took it for a spin around the block and was getting similar behavior as before.  The exhaust popping and flat spot (although it seems to be lower in RPM's now, around the 3k mark).  I reset to 3.5 turns out, and got similar results.   However, it is noticebly better with the choke on.  I am linking a video below trying to show the difference when the choke is on (just a smidge) and off.  Apologies for the cell phone video...

http://youtu.be/-hGhssbBKTE

Any thoughts?  For the time being, I can ride around with a little bit of choke on and be careful during the flat spot (notice I'm hoping the two are related).


BREAK

On a "what stupid thing have you done today" note:   when I took the bike around for a spin, I noticed the front end was squishy.  Took it back and found it at 13 PSI.  Dummy.  Thought "well, might as well check the back tire, too".  The tire pressure gauge wouldn't even get a reading!  Couple pumps of the bike pump, and back up to 36.  *face palm*

BUMP

Any ideas?  Would a tight intake valve be causing my issues?

Thanks for the help!

Quote from: lboaman on October 03, 2012, 11:43:57 AM
BUMP

Any ideas?  Would a tight intake valve be causing my issues?

Thanks for the help!

Comprehensive checklist:

1. Air Pressure in Tires (well..not really, but I thought I would have some fun  )
2. Air cleaner CLEAN
3. Valves in spec (most important)
4. Plugs in good condition and clean
5. No air leaks between carb and engine.  This includes boots and o-rings
6. No exhaust leaks
7. Carburetor clean (meaning no dirt, varnish, etc).
8. Battery strong (weak battery = weak spark).
9. Might be fuel flow.  Kinked hose?  Tank valve set to "partial on"?
10. Turn fuel chicken to PRIME.  Run OK then.
11. Ignition system.

Thanks Jester.  Looks like I finally have gotten to the fix.

I went back and checked my valve clearances again.  The right intake was tight, so I swapped it back with 265.  Started it up, same problems.

I thought my carbs were pretty clean, but I gave it one last ditch effort.  Sure enough after a good cleaning (well, good enough, just blew out every hole with carb cleaner), and I had a change.  Now when i started her up, she jumped straight to 4k RPMs.  Having played this game with high idle before, I was fairly certain I had an air leak somewhere.

Couldn't find anything with the WD40 tests... Thought I was spraying everywhere.  As I was fiddling with the mixture screws, I noticed one of the hoses connecting to the emissions canister was coming loose (the ones that T up).  The hoses were pretty old and brittle.  Cut some new ones and started back up with no high idle.   

Been riding around for past few days and it's running pretty good I must say.  I'm thinking that extra washer under the needle has made a bit of a change, because it seems like theres a little more 'umphhh'  <- technical term.

thanks for the help!

Glad you got it fixed.  I'll add vacuum leak to my checklist.