News:

Protect your dainty digits. Get a good pair of riding gloves cheap Right Here

Main Menu

Fuel Line Problem

Started by k.rollin, December 13, 2012, 01:08:15 AM

Previous topic - Next topic

k.rollin

I'm trying to replace my fuel lines, but I'm having issues with getting the proper fit. On my 2004 GS500F, the fittings on the tank petcock are 7mm but the fittings on the frame petcock are 10mm. So far I've tried using 5/16" I.D. and 3/8" I.D vinyl tubing without success. The 5/16" tubing won't fit on the frame petcock, even with heat/lubrication, and the 3/8" tubing leaks at the tank fittings when held on by spring type hose clamp. It is with these issues that I approach the hivemind for guidance. Should I use different size tubing, or are there barbed reducer fittings that I should use instead?

I would also really like to talk to the people at Suzuki who thought it was a good idea to use 7mm fittings on the fuel tank and 10mm fittings on the petcock. And by talk, I mean throat punch. Repeatedly. Thanks to this minor detail, I won't be making it in to work tomorrow.

BockinBboy

#1
I had gone with 5/16", which are pretty tight at the frame petcock (probably could get away without using a clamp, but use it anyway), and are snug with clamps at the tank.

1/4" was just too tight at the frame petcock to stretch and make work for my comfort.

I don't know whether actual fuel line is 'that' different from vinyl tubing in terms of ID sizing - I mean I would think that 5/16" ID is 5/16" ID no matter the material - But I didn't have an issue going with that in fuel line.

- Bboy

Edit: Wanted to add that using vinyl tubing should only be a temporary fix (like getting to work for a couple days).  As using them for any significant length of time, you are asking for problems.


Sonic Springs, R6 Shock, R6 Throttle Tube, Lowering Links, T-Rex Frame Sliders, SW-Motech Alu-Rack, SH46 Shad Topcase, Smoked Signals, Smoked LED Tailight, ZG Touring Windscreen

Watevaman

Moose Racing Clear Tubing

that's what I used and it worked fine with some clamps I got from Home Depot.
Bike: 1990 GS500E (Vance & Hines full system, K&N Lunchbox, BM Clubmaster bars, Katana rear shock, 0.90 Sonic Springs), 2000 ZRX1100 (Kerker slip-on)
Location: Virginia

Calpantera

I used 1/4 inch line with zip ties and have had no issues. Kind of a PITA to put on, I pre lubed them with 2 stroke oil. Make sure you use the thin wall stuff, it streches a bit more and will allow you to put on zip ties/clamps at the tank petcock where the two fttings are very close to each other.
Follow the path of least acceptance!

tialloydragon

I believe I used 5/16" Tygon for my fuel lines.  I have a CR250X frame petcock, so for fitting it YMMV.  I used clamps on all the contact points, even the tight ones.

I have used vinyl tubing for fuel lines before I got the Tygon.  The vinyl tubing stains and gets very rigid and hard after a while.  The Tygon stays clear (well, translucent,) supple and flexible.
Life is Full of Little Victories and Huge Defeats

weedahoe

Quote from: Watevaman on December 13, 2012, 07:06:17 AM
Moose Racing Clear Tubing

that's what I used and it worked fine with some clamps I got from Home Depot.

Those are what I bought and used on my bikes. It fits fine on the tank and I had to lube the nipples on the frame petcock with WD40 and even then force them on. Once they are there, theyre there
2007
K&N Lunchbox
20/62.5/142.5
chromed pegs
R6 shock
89 aluminum knuckle
Lowering links
Bar mirrors w/LEDs
rear LED turns
89 clip ons
Dual Yoshi TRS
Gauge/Indicator LEDs
T- Rex sliders
HID retrofit
GSXR rear sets
Zero Gravity screen
Chrome Katana rims
Bandit hugger
Custom paint
Sonic springs

mister

Use a screw type hose clamp instead...

GS Picture Game - Lists of Completed Challenges & Current Challenge http://tinyurl.com/GS500PictureGame and http://tinyurl.com/GS500PictureGameList2

GS500 Round Aust Relay http://tinyurl.com/GS500RoundAustRelay

adidasguy

I use the gray tygon from MotionPro. It is stretchy where vinyl isn't. So the tygon can easily stretch and slip on all fittings of if you used the larger size, easily squishes down with a spring or screw type clamp.

gsatterw

Just for clarification, 5/16" ID, and 7/16" OD?

and tygon?
2002 GS500
Progressive Springs|15w oil|Heavy Duty Fork Brace|R6 Rear Shock|Cbr900rr Rear Sets|Reverse Shifting|'89 Factory Clipons|R6 Throttle Tube|K&N Lunchbox|V&H Exhaust|Jets: 22.5/65/147.5|3 turns|Shorai Li/Fe Battery|Iridium Plugs|Blue SS brake line|Blue Levers|Blue Chain

weedahoe

tygon is the yellowish colored fuel line.

5/16 ID
2007
K&N Lunchbox
20/62.5/142.5
chromed pegs
R6 shock
89 aluminum knuckle
Lowering links
Bar mirrors w/LEDs
rear LED turns
89 clip ons
Dual Yoshi TRS
Gauge/Indicator LEDs
T- Rex sliders
HID retrofit
GSXR rear sets
Zero Gravity screen
Chrome Katana rims
Bandit hugger
Custom paint
Sonic springs

k.rollin

It's all resolved now; I went to the local dealership and got some 5/16" I.D. PVC line, verbally assaulted it, and it now fits fine at both ends. Still want to throat punch the folks responsible though.

weedahoe

You can credit the manufacture for doing it to try to make you buy OEM proprietary fuel lines
2007
K&N Lunchbox
20/62.5/142.5
chromed pegs
R6 shock
89 aluminum knuckle
Lowering links
Bar mirrors w/LEDs
rear LED turns
89 clip ons
Dual Yoshi TRS
Gauge/Indicator LEDs
T- Rex sliders
HID retrofit
GSXR rear sets
Zero Gravity screen
Chrome Katana rims
Bandit hugger
Custom paint
Sonic springs

crzydood17

Best way to get fuel lines on is to use a pair of needle nose pliers, stick them in 1 end and start stretching. That is how I always did it, until I just went and bought some brand new OEM lines that fit perfectly...
2004 GS500F (Sold)
2001 GS500 (being torn apart)
1992 GS500E (being rebuilt)

Calpantera

#13
My bike had the gray MotionPro lines on it when I got it. Got the same stuff but it was a PITA to put on the tank petcock, and shortly there after one of the lines popped off when I was lifting the tank. I ended up replacing those two lines with the thin wall stuff and made them as long as I could so I can leave the tank connected and still prop it up to a decent height for access. The old MotionPro stuff was pretty stiff but held up really well.
Follow the path of least acceptance!

SMF spam blocked by CleanTalk