In the end:

1. Timing was off. Timing fixed changed compression from 140 to 190 psi.
2. Right intake valve has some issue. Not sure what - but the bucket did have some off scratches and scrapes on it.

Replaced the head with Junior's original one. He's running much better.

In the process, carbs were swapped  to rule out that as the problem. Then Junior's carbs (which I had not opened before) were opened, cleaned and 40 pilots put in and new needle valve. mains were replaced with new ones of 122.5 (same size).

Now all back together and running pretty good. Will need to re-check valves and re-torque head bolts (normal after a head change).

With the higher compression, there is a much deeper sound from the V&H exhaust. Pretty nice!

When I check the valves and torque the head bolts, I'll probably re-check the carb float levels. probably other things because once you have the tank off, you might as well check out everything.

Tomorrow he will he a good cleaning. Right now he is covered in spilled oil and stuff. He needs a bath.

Quote from: Tombstones81 on August 20, 2012, 11:38:16 PM
If you end up taking the head off, I would remove the valves from the questionable side.
Then check them for even the slightest bend, and also check the valve guides.

You've probably taken valves out before, but just incase... its so easy, even without a stupid compression tool.

Get a long socket that fits nicely around the top of the valve. (bucket off)
Then you can either simply push down on it until the pins come off, or if its giving trouble that way, smack the top of the socket with a hammer. (but not enough to break anything and Be Careful!)

I've done it both ways without a single problem.

To go back in.
Put the parts back in.
Line up the pins in the middle and push down (by hand) with the same socket until they go back into place.
Need to place something below the valve to keep it from dropping out btw.

One of the members here has a video on youtube, thats how I leanred how to do it that way.

But im sure you know how or have the proper valve compression tool.
So im just wasting text, i dont care 

air fitting that screws into plug hole. make sure both valves are closed, and apply pressure. valves will remain closed. even without outside support. TDC works best. less of a chamber to fill/pressurise

Quote from: adidasguy on August 24, 2012, 10:50:22 PM
In the end:

1. Timing was off. Timing fixed changed compression from 140 to 190 psi.
2. Right intake valve has some issue. Not sure what - but the bucket did have some off scratches and scrapes on it.

Replaced the head with Junior's original one. He's running much better.

In the process, carbs were swapped  to rule out that as the problem. Then Junior's carbs (which I had not opened before) were opened, cleaned and 40 pilots put in and new needle valve. mains were replaced with new ones of 122.5 (same size).

Now all back together and running pretty good. Will need to re-check valves and re-torque head bolts (normal after a head change).

With the higher compression, there is a much deeper sound from the V&H exhaust. Pretty nice!

When I check the valves and torque the head bolts, I'll probably re-check the carb float levels. probably other things because once you have the tank off, you might as well check out everything.

Tomorrow he will he a good cleaning. Right now he is covered in spilled oil and stuff. He needs a bath.

Awesomesauce my friend. ride him for a few hundred miles and check plugs, but methinks it will be fine. heres an E-Beer on the house 

Gave Junior some new clothes today now that he is running good again.



Original new in the box fairing which I believe is a 1998. Bought from the UK over a year ago. Always wanted to see what it looked like.

Riding: cool. Smaller than  the "F" fairing so the bike still feels small and sporty. I will have to change the 89 bar clips for the Euro type 1's because of clearance of  the brake lever with the fairing when turning fully left.

^^^ I HATE YOU!!!! (in a good way!) hahaha

If I had that fairing kit, I would get another GS500 just for that!!!!!

Dunno what it is about that look, I just freakin LOVE IT!!!

Lucky SOB! hahahaha

VERY nice!!!!

Riding him, that fairing is like it is not there. It is very small and compact compared to the "F" fairing which is HUGE in comparison.
Junior really wants me to do twisties - even with the new (new old stock) fairing.

He still feels small and flickable.

This fairing is by TCP - obviously for Suzuki - but doesn't show in any parts catalogs like the headlight cowling and belly pan we are familiar with.
I have a used fairing by 5 stars. Basically the same design except the headlight is a single bulb where this one is separate high and low beam. Headlight housing shape is the same.

When I change the bars to the Euro type 1 I will swap the left control for one with the PASS button. I might put on the European right controls with the headlight switch. I have the fog lights. Then I could run with just the fog lights on if I needed to.

Thanks for the complements.

I never could have made Junior run again if it weren't for the West Seattle guys and everyone here on this board. I am no longer afraid to tear into the engine or carbs. This winter: open up Juniors old bottom end with the bad bearing and see what's really in there.

Yeah, the bike was Crazy nice before.

But now as far as an unmodified to hell GS500, that is probably the Nicest one I've seen!

Hence why I said if I just so happen to have one or get one in that shape Way down the road, another GS500 would certainly be in the works!

wow gorgeous.
so how did you find the timing was off,and how to fix?

Quote from: Phil B on August 26, 2012, 03:50:20 AM
wow gorgeous.
so how did you find the timing was off,and how to fix?

Werll, there is the optical illusion of the head being at an angle. Your brain wants the timing arrow to point forward - not down at about a 15* angle which is what is required to be level with the top of the head. Also the diagrams have the head horizontal, not at the angle it really is at. So your brain wants it horizontal. Then, the chain will stretch when the CCT is installed. That will make the cams go counterclockwise (backwards) a little. add to that the timing rotor can shift a little (a couple degrees) if it all gets wrong, you can end up 1 sprocket off and most likely backwards.

You have to recheck everything after the cam chain tensioner is put in and the motor rotated through a couple cycles so everything settles in and the chain tension is correct.

Yea Junior!

looks too good adidas!! Best fairing ever designed for the gs in my opinion.

Glad he's back up and running right, now he looks flossing!

Thats very cool that you were able to figure this out. Kudos to you! I guess I can take some of the blame for this happening in the first place 

Quote from: adidasguy on August 26, 2012, 10:33:30 PM
Werll, there is the optical illusion of the head being at an angle. Your brain wants the timing arrow to point forward - not down at about a 15* angle which is what is required to be level with the top of the head. Also the diagrams have the head horizontal, not at the angle it really is at. So your brain wants it horizontal. Then, the chain will stretch when the CCT is installed. That will make the cams go counterclockwise (backwards) a little. add to that the timing rotor can shift a little (a couple degrees) if it all gets wrong, you can end up 1 sprocket off and most likely backwards.

You have to recheck everything after the cam chain tensioner is put in and the motor rotated through a couple cycles so everything settles in and the chain tension is correct.

I definitely agree that setting the timing right is a challenge.  This post pretty well summarizes the pitfalls in the process.  The biggest one for me was making sure the timing stayed on after getting the CCT installed.  It's best to give the engine a turn by hand after getting everything installed and tightened to make sure everything still looks as it does in the manual diagram.

Quote from: Bluesmudge on August 28, 2012, 11:32:05 AM
Thats very cool that you were able to figure this out. Kudos to you! I guess I can take some of the blame for this happening in the first place 

Well, I think 1 link off is not that bad. 10*. There's that much slop in the chain and the position of the rotor.
I think things started to show as the valves wore in and tightened. A little off is OK if valves loose. When tight, they stay open longer. Plus that right intake valve bucket has some off scratches on it. Suspect that valve was sticking, too.

Don't feel bad. junior never would be running if you and James weren't there to help. That was an untested, used head - it will be examined later. I wouldn't have been able to do what I just did if it weren't for learning what to do from you and James.

You should feel good - this student learned well of the master!

Stop by - probably wrenching Saturday and Monday morning/noon. Plan to hit Vashon sometime this weekend.

Quote from: adidasguy on August 25, 2012, 08:10:13 PM
Gave Junior some new clothes today now that he is running good again.



Original new in the box fairing which I believe is a 1998. Bought from the UK over a year ago. Always wanted to see what it looked like.

Riding: cool. Smaller than  the "F" fairing so the bike still feels small and sporty. I will have to change the 89 bar clips for the Euro type 1's because of clearance of  the brake lever with the fairing when turning fully left.

How cold is it where you are? How does the fairing effect the air cooled engine? I'd think it would overheat

Quote from: adidasguy on August 26, 2012, 10:33:30 PM

Quote from: Phil B on August 26, 2012, 03:50:20 AM
wow gorgeous.

Yea Junior!

Oh wow... Yea Junior indeed. What a GREAT looking GS.

The fairing is fine. I suppose if in a desert and stopped in traffic it might be an issue. There is lots of space for air to circulate. It was sold mostly in Europe for the 89-00 GS500's. I found my fairing new in the original box at a place in the UK a couple years ago. Make by TCP, which I have heard is the same as 5-Stars. I have a used 5-Stars fairing and it is identical except for the stamping on the wind screen.

Right now Junior is at the motorcycle show with different seat and side plastics (see pix in main area with topic on the show).

This configuration looks good. You can be proud of your work.  Wouldn't know it was a GS if you didn't know.

Are those wheels the original color?

Junior is a '92, which had white rims stock; however, they are a stock color of rims offered on 96-00 (maybe some other years to) models.

- Bboy

Everything is stock, original paint except the tail/seat, which is Gimbel and had to be painted but used the Candy Antares Red OEM paint from Colorrite.
Rims are original color 96-00 vintage.
89-95 = white rims
96-2000 = gray
2001-2002 = silver
2004+ = black

I am jealous of nearly every GS I see on this site.