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RPM problems

Started by Grizzi, May 20, 2004, 03:27:26 PM

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Grizzi

I have a big problem.

If i am parked and in neutral and i then crank the handlebar a bit , my rpm thends to go from the normal 1200 rpms in idle, to 4000 rmp and it doesn't drop. The only way i can get i to drop is to turn it off and then start it again.

I have checked the handlebar and it's not stuck, but something tells me that it might be the carps, can any1 confirme this and maybe tell me what to do cause it's really anoying.
OMG i envy the people that dont have to pay cartaxes up to 180 % (Denmark go home)

Ed_in_Az

Your throttle cable may be pinched or it may need to be lubricated.
Retired from biking

dgyver

If you are moving the handlebars and the rpms change, better check the throttle cable for being loose at the carbs or binding somewhere. Check the choke cable as well.
Common sense in not very common.

Kerry

If the choke cable is "too tight" (usually because of how it's routed) you can tell by watching the choke lever.  When I mounted my handlebar risers I had to re-route both the choke and throttle cables.  Before I rerouted the choke cable I could watch the choke lever "turn itself on" as I turned the bar ... to the left, I think.

In the stock configuration both cables are routed from the handlebar grip to the front of the bike (below the headlight) and then around the fork tubes and back underneath the fuel tank.  I rerouted the cables so they don't go around the fork tubes anymore - they describe a curve in the air from the handlebar grip to directly under the fuel tank.

(Note: If the bike is totally stock and "nothing" has been done to it, you technically shouldn't need to re-route either cable.)

My bet is that your throttle cable is incorrectly adjusted.  It needs more slack!  Try the adjuster on the throttle grip end of the cable first.  if you run out of adjustment there, pull the fuel tank and goof around with the adjustment at the other end of the cable - where it attaches to the carburetor assembly.
Yellow 1999 GS500E
Kerry's Suzuki GS500 Page

aslam

Of course this seem like symptoms of the infamous lean condition.  Maybe carbs check for air leaks on intake.  Also I had a similar problem like this that was fixed by adjusting valves.

ASLAM.

dorian chapman

This is not related to your problem.  But I have a similar concern.  I've started to notice since it has started to get warmer here, that once the bike is warmed up and I've been out riding for 15 mins or so, If i crank the throttle at a stop sign or stop light, while in neutral (or just have the clutch in) The RPM's will shoot up to 4 or 5 etc. but they take a long time to drop back down to idle. Like much longer than when i was riding around in the winter months.  I jsut wanted to know if this is normal or not. It's a 2003 GS, with 2000 km's on it

Grizzi

I dont think u guys really got what the problem was.

My problem is similar to dorin champmans

Qoute:

This is not related to your problem. But I have a similar concern. I've started to notice since it has started to get warmer here, that once the bike is warmed up and I've been out riding for 15 mins or so, If i crank the throttle at a stop sign or stop light, while in neutral (or just have the clutch in) The RPM's will shoot up to 4 or 5 etc. but they take a long time to drop back down to idle. Like much longer than when i was riding around in the winter months. I jsut wanted to know if this is normal or not. It's a 2003 GS, with 2000 km's on it
OMG i envy the people that dont have to pay cartaxes up to 180 % (Denmark go home)

Jasco

If you turn the handlebars back straight will the rpm's drop to normal?
"No sprinkles. For every sprinkle I find, I shall kill you."  Stewie Griffin

MarkusN

Quote from: GrizziI dont think u guys really got what the problem was.

My problem is similar to dorin champmans
so by "crank the handlebar" you meant "twist the throttle"? Then it sounds like false air being sucked through the intake mainfolds. Check those for tightness.

Grizzi

Yes i meant twist the throttle, if i do this with the clutch pulled or in neutral the rpm's will rise to 4000 and stay there.
OMG i envy the people that dont have to pay cartaxes up to 180 % (Denmark go home)

Briggs

I would say that you probably bent a rod or snapped your crank shaft. Thats what mine was doing when my rpms would raise up for no reason.







j/k
1989' GS500 - V&H Exhaust, K&N Pod, 137.5, 40, no washers
89' GSX-R rear rim, 150/60, and Katana shock

BadBatzMaru

Quote from: BriggsI would say that you probably bent a rod or snapped your crank shaft. Thats what mine was doing when my rpms would raise up for no reason.







j/k
:mrgreen: mean :mrgreen:  hahahha...  :thumb:  :thumb:

vacuum leak maybe? or could be that your idle is set to high.. ie calibrated for cooler weather and not when the engine was fully warmed up... but since you say it idles ok then a blip on the throttle sends it to 4k and slow to come back its probably vacuum related. try the WD40 trick. Spray wd40 around suspect area, ie carb boots etc, and see if the RPMs rise.. if so, the you've got a vacuum leak

dorian chapman

Mine RPM's don't stay at 4000, they just take longer to drop than I remeber.  Afterwards the bike will idle at 1.5  I did have it tuned up in January, so maybe they set it up for the colder weather ?!

GRU

i had the same problem after i rejetted my carbs with biger jets....i fixed it when i tightend the air filter to the carbs and when i set the air/fuel mix screw to 3 turns out

richard

Based on a lot of time troubleshootoing a similar problem,
sounds like it's probably one of two things:

1.  your throttle cable *might* be too tight.  If it's just tight enough, it can cause idle to hang, even though when you first start it it idles normal.  I had this prob after reinstalling my carbs once.  As Kerry said, check your adjuster screw on the throttle on the handlebars... easiest thing to check, actually.

2.  your bike is "lean" for some reason.  Common reaons include:  carbs need to be cleaned, leaky boots on carbs/intake/air box, incorrect valve adjustment.

My bike had this problem and it was fixed by adjusting the valves.  I'd recommend first checking the throttle cable tightness, but that's probably not what it is, just an easy thing to check.  If that's not it (likely), then pull your carbs and clean them.  it doesn't take too long, and everyone should take them apart sometime, just to see whats inside. ;-)  While you have the bike that far apart, check the valve clearances... another good thing to learn to do.

If those things don't fix it, I'll be pretty surprised... and we can try something different.

While you're at it, of course, keep a sharp eye open for cracks, loose seals, etc.
Richard

'96 GS500

Great news! I just saved a bundle on car insurance by switching to a motorcycle!

CRXDrew

I'm having the same problem as the orginal poster. (Yes I know this is a very old post)

Any other suggestions?

-I have checked my throttle, there is slack.
-I have also checked the boots for tears etc.
-I have also cleaned the carbs a few times.
-choke is not sticking

On stock jets. Could rejetting to 40 on the pilots help?
New to motorcycles.... old fart with Turbo Hondas. :)

scratch

Do the revs increase when you turn the bars to the right?
The motorcycle is no longer the hobby, the skill has become the hobby.

Power does not compare to skill.  What good is power without the skill to use it?

QuoteOriginally posted by Wintermute on BayAreaRidersForum.com
good judgement trumps good skills every time.

CRXDrew

Quote from: scratch on May 13, 2006, 08:33:26 AM
Do the revs increase when you turn the bars to the right?

nope, plenty of slack in the throttle cable
New to motorcycles.... old fart with Turbo Hondas. :)

scratch

Are the clamps around the carb boots and air boots tight enough?
The motorcycle is no longer the hobby, the skill has become the hobby.

Power does not compare to skill.  What good is power without the skill to use it?

QuoteOriginally posted by Wintermute on BayAreaRidersForum.com
good judgement trumps good skills every time.

corndog67

Clean and lube your cables with a cable lube device that clamps on to the end of the cable.  Make sure the cables aren't pulling tight when you  move the bars from stop to stop.  If they are pulling tight and changing the rpms when you turn the bars, you might have to re-route them.  You don't want kinks, and you don't want them to open the slides at an inoportune time. 

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