I have the definitive answer for fitting the OEM clip-ons on your "F" model GS500.

Recall from other threads that there are 3 types:
1. 1989's which were sold world wide. These have  the lowest, most aggressive bar position of the three types.
2. Canadian/Euro type (figure "A" in the parts catalog I posted before). These are a little higher than the 1989's. These were never sold in the US.
3. The highest of all. These are the "B" parts diagram. They are higher, angle down and in a little more.

All fit on the 1989-2000 tanks.

#1 will fit 1989-2000 OK, and 2001+ with tweaking.
#2 fits fine on all bikes. Tight on a 2001+ tank, but fits with no modifications.
#3 will not fit on 2001+ tanks. Don't even try. Will fit fine on the 1989-2000 tanks.

Since #1 fits and #2 will not, here is what to do with the 1989's and how they look.

Here is how #2 fits - close, but OK. The right side is the tight side which is why I photographed that side.


#2 on the left. #1 - 1989's on the right. I really prefer #2 on the "F" because of the different riding position due to the difference in the seat and tank. Either are good on older bikes. I have 89's on Trey and #2 on Junior. I do not have #3 on any bikes and have a pile of those clips in the parts bin.
FYI: The triple top plate is the same for three all of these bar clips.


Here is how #1 fits with no tweaking - it slightly hits the tank unless you were to rotate the controls a little


Buddha has one solution to the tank slapping with the 1989's (remember: #2 fits OK): slightly bend the bar by 10%. This is a lot of work.
If you had a machine shop or were skilled with a file, you could file the mount on the top plate to change the angle of the bars. Again, LOTS of work and if you mess it up, you're screwed. You could file the clip - again a risky thing unless you have a machine shop and a milling machine to do it accurately.

Another solution, which is less work, is to shim the clip. Add a washer on the outside bolt of the two that hold it on like this:



The result is OK. It is close, same as using the #2 Canadian/Euro setup.

Nice write up Adidas, you are really making me jealous though. Any chance you found a set in the bike cave you are willing to sell me 

great write up!

here's a past post of my experience with the #1 true 1989 US clips and straight woodcraft bars on my naked 2004:

Quote from: steezin_and_wheezin on September 25, 2011, 06:08:48 PM
i have a naked 2004 with 89 clips and straight woodcraft bars. works perfect and feels great. bars/controls don't hit tank at all, though it is a little tight at full turn. it won't crush my thumb, but will squeeze it a little on each side. highly recommend it!

looks like if i put the shim washer in they'll fit even better!! great info adidas!

Quote from: ghostrider_23 on December 13, 2011, 06:06:00 AM
Nice write up Adidas, you are really making me jealous though. Any chance you found a set in the bike cave you are willing to sell me 

I have one set of #1 and #2. With 2 bike builds, they are kind of allocated at the moment. One more set of #1 is coming in. I have LOTS of the #3 clips. No extra top plates for them unless they're in the "assorted parts" drawer.

Well keep me in mine for some #2. I have a 2009F the same as you, so if you run across some that you want to let go you have a buyer. 

Some words of wisdom when installing them.....

Changing components from old bars to new ones is easy. Just watch routing of things. You may have to loosen the banjo on the brake to rotate the brake line a little.

WATCH OUT FOR THE BRAKE SWITCH! Those contacts will be REALLY close to the clips. A friend blew his fuse because he turned the controls too far forward and the brake switch contacts shorted to the clip. Didn't happen until he applied the brake.

I haven't had the problem, but since I've seen it - be aware of it if you blow a fuse. Check the brake switch contacts. Be sure they're insulated and not touching the clip. Bend them a little if needed or rotate the brake control towards you (lever up) just a smidgen or add a small piece of some thing that insulates. I can give a picture if needed, but you'll see that when you put things on and look closely at it.

Because if the alignment pins on the bars, there is a left and a right. You can always drill extra alignment holes for the controls or in case you got bars with no holes or two left feet. 1989's have only 1 notch for the screws to the clips. Others have 2 notches. File an extra notch if your bars are not the ones for your clips. If you use after market bars, file the notches as needed. They are required so the bars do nit rotate of loose or come out.

Bar Ends: If those bars are OEM, the bar ends screw on and do not use rubber bushings. BEWARE! Those screw holes do NOT go all the way through. They bottom out. Check it with a stick or piece of wire so you know the depth. I say this because when you screw on the bar ends and it gets tight - DON'T SCREW ANY MORE! I learned the hard way and broke off a screw thinking it was just tight and rusty. (That was my FIRST set of clip-ons and had extra bars).

Well, there are my words of wisdom.

You can bend it with a pipe bender or a vice and a pair of steel rods of 1/2 inch dia and a longer pipe ...
What you think I have any real equipment
Cool.
Buddha.

What is the official name of the "Canadian/Euro" style bars (option #2)?  I'd like to do some more research on options #1 and #2 and I want to make sure I reference them properly by name.

Thanks and great walkthrough of clip-ons!

Everything you need to know:

http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=59176.msg676469#msg676469