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Homemade Dogbones

Started by ron freeman, August 08, 2013, 03:24:25 PM

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ron freeman

I want to make my own custom dogbones out of 1/8" thick 1" cold rolled flat bar. 
Is this safe?
Has anyone ever is this and how did it workout?
I've been told cold rolled steel has a very high tensile strength and is one step below grade 8. I want a custom ride height without spending a lot of money. I'm very good working with steel and wood.
Thanks for any help.

fetor56

You can do anything u like as long as u do it properly.

PS......personally i would go slightly thicket than 1/8''

gsJack

I've got 3 sets of links; stock links are steel, Pingel links are 7075 T6 aluminum, and Burkhart links are 6061 T6 aluminum.  All are 1/4" thick so I think that would be best for you for strength and so stock bolt length will fit.

I've  had  the Pingels on for years now, they have a 13/16" wide neck and fit has never been a problem.  I've never used the Burkhart links with the 1 13/32" wide neck but one member reported they hit a weld lump on the swing arm so the 1" wide is as wide as I'd go, the stock steel link necks are 5/8x1/4"(6mm).  Links come close to the swing arm.

http://www.gs500.net/gallery/data/500/LinkDims.jpg
407,400 miles in 30 years for 13,580 miles/year average.  Started riding 7/21/84 and hung up helmet 8/31/14.

Soloratov

As a machinist, I'll just put in my .02. The aluminum will be easier to work with, and will be perfectly fine for the application. Just make sure you use 1/4" stock. 1/8 is just to thin, even in steel. It will take you far less time and effort, even with their simple design.

weedahoe

You know, adjustable lowering links are pretty cheap on eBay
2007
K&N Lunchbox
20/62.5/142.5
chromed pegs
R6 shock
89 aluminum knuckle
Lowering links
Bar mirrors w/LEDs
rear LED turns
89 clip ons
Dual Yoshi TRS
Gauge/Indicator LEDs
T- Rex sliders
HID retrofit
GSXR rear sets
Zero Gravity screen
Chrome Katana rims
Bandit hugger
Custom paint
Sonic springs

john

I made my own out of plate slightly thicker than stock.  Why risk it.  Easy to make -just have to make sure both are the same.  I tack welded mine together before drilling.
There is more to this site than a message board.  Check out http://www.gstwin.com

Fear the banana hammer!

ron freeman

Thanks for all the input. What do you all think about 3/4" wide, 1/4" thick cold rolled steel?

Soloratov

That would do the trick. Have at it!

gsJack

OK if your going to shape them like dogbones but if you mean 3/4x1/4" straight all the way end to end the 12 mm (approx. 1/2") holes would be kinda close to the edges.  The shock in tension of the bones when the suspensin bottoms is why they have that shape.  I'd rather try at least a 1x1/4" cold rolled bar to make a shapless pair of links the easy way.  Clamp them together while drilling to get lengths equal.

407,400 miles in 30 years for 13,580 miles/year average.  Started riding 7/21/84 and hung up helmet 8/31/14.

ron freeman

The 3/4" wide cold rolled is the widest we have at my job but I can get 1" wide 1/4" thick cut from plate steel off our shear. It's mild grade steel I think.

ron freeman

I was able to 1" wide x 1/4" thick regular flatbar. Will this work. It's just plain old carbon steel flat bar. Thanks for the help. :D

weedahoe

Carbon steel is going to rust. I assume you're going to get these powder coated because I don't see spray paint holding up under the bike
2007
K&N Lunchbox
20/62.5/142.5
chromed pegs
R6 shock
89 aluminum knuckle
Lowering links
Bar mirrors w/LEDs
rear LED turns
89 clip ons
Dual Yoshi TRS
Gauge/Indicator LEDs
T- Rex sliders
HID retrofit
GSXR rear sets
Zero Gravity screen
Chrome Katana rims
Bandit hugger
Custom paint
Sonic springs

ron freeman

If I get them fabricates soon enough I'm going to get them zinc plated but if not I'm going to put them on our powder coat line. I'd prefer to ha e them zinc coated though. Thanks for the input guys, it's been a real help.

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