Probably inches. American measurement so yeah lol. Not sure,  it doesn't matter too much, it's a straight through thread so it can be a tiny bit off as long as it doesn't hit the carb body or mess with anything.

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Quote from: Crasm on March 02, 2014, 12:25:13 PM

Quote from: radodrill on February 27, 2014, 08:03:45 AM

Quote from: Jayke on February 27, 2014, 07:22:26 AMOnce I've had the bike apart once, I'll be fine with tearing it down. This is my first time when I do it soon so yeah! :p

Most certainly the case; and with your new lunchbox it will be a lot easier (can stay attached to the carbs).  Also, the stock screws on the carbs are a pain to get out; best to replace them with stainless Allen screws; IIRT M4x.7 on the bottom and M5x.8 on top

Im guessing by the bolt sizes given m4x0.7 and m5xo.8
Thats in cm ?? Such as the 0.7 is 7mm in lenth for instancr

That's merely the thread size; M4x.7 means Metric screw with a 4mm nominal diameter and 0.7mm thread pitch.  Since the threaded holes on the carb body go straight through, any screw ~8-12 mm long will work.

Quote from: Jayke on March 02, 2014, 12:27:33 PM
Probably inches. American measurement so yeah lol. Not sure,  it doesn't matter too much, it's a straight through thread so it can be a tiny bit off as long as it doesn't hit the carb body or mess with anything.

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All Japanese (and most sport bikes in general) use metric fasteners

Ahh right i thought is was thread length not thread pitch
Cheers for clearing that up.

Is there any reason why the pitch and size is different from the carb bowls to the top covers??

Quote from: Crasm on March 02, 2014, 02:28:23 PM
Ahh right i thought is was thread length not thread pitch
Cheers for clearing that up.

Is there any reason why the pitch and size is different from the carb bowls to the top covers??

Not sure why Mikuni made them that way; my guess would be that since the top has only 2 screws per cap they went with bigger screws to account for the additional stress on the threads.

Rado - thats something else i didnt know.

So 4 bowl screws on each carb and 2 tops screws per carb??

Thanks again

Quote from: Crasm on March 02, 2014, 03:58:47 PM
So 4 bowl screws on each carb and 2 tops screws per carb??

That's correct; Qty 4 - M4x.7 12mm for the float bowls, Qty 2 - M5x.8 12mm for the caps, and on the 03+/04+ Qty 2 - M4x.7 8mm for attaching the throttle position sensor (TPS) to the bottom of the right float bowl.

Glad you got it sorted, rado is the man! Just went down to delkevic and bought a 350mm oval system. £250 cash in hand. Hope it's worth it!!!!

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Quote from: radodrill on March 02, 2014, 04:27:26 PM

Quote from: Crasm on March 02, 2014, 03:58:47 PM
So 4 bowl screws on each carb and 2 tops screws per carb??

That's correct; Qty 4 - M4x.7 12mm for the float bowls, Qty 2 - M5x.8 12mm for the caps, and on the 03+/04+ Qty 2 - M4x.7 8mm for attaching the throttle position sensor (TPS) to the bottom of the right float bowl.

Cheers buddy

Bought 10 of each off a supplier my work uses cost me £1

Sounds about right! I got 50 each for 5-6 quid. Wish I could bought less.

Alas, the gs with a delkevic on it. No baffle. Sounds f%$king awesome. Runs alot better with this than the motad on with these jets. May need some fine tweaking, not sure. No popping, power feels greater than with the motad. Happy days!

Ps ; just thought I'd mention, the mid range, about 5-7 feels a tad flat, possibly because I settled for a 62.5 mid main rather than a 65, what are you guys thoughts ?

(picture is minutes old)

Bloody hell mate you dont hang around lol
Same system as mine . . . Looking good !!
You fit it yourself or get a shop to do it??
Did you come across any problems like the ones i mentioned in my last pm to you??
And im glad your happy with it , i said you would be impressed with the noise!!

Well I live 10 minutes away from the delkevic place so I managed to get it easily - I ended up fitting it myself, wasn't too bad, as I have had my motad off before a few weeks back. Went together quite well, baffle is out just put a nut on the end of the screw that holds the baffle in as it has a whistle without.

It seems very loud though over 7k lol, definitely more power than before. Made the wheel want to come up when I hit the throttle in 2nd, just a few more jobs to do and we will be good!

And yes, definitely recommend delkevic, great sound!

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I like that weird wistle from the baffle bolt hole lol 
Aint delkevic in stoke?? I always thought it was based at that massive bike shop in stoke cant remember the name of it now?.
My headers havs blued quite badly but my link and can are still mint im guessing its from the heat air cooled motor
So keep an eye on that.
Ive also got to change my header bolts again to stainless as i replaced the bolts with new mild steel ones when i fitted my new exhaust.
Cant wait for the weekend now so i can get this jetted up and the lunch box back on!!
Steve from motocarb emailed this morning to say the jets are in the post so its looking good for saturday!!

I haven't rode it without the bolt in yet, just heard it when I first started it and did it lol. Yes, it's in Stoke, which is where Im from. It's above dk motorcycles in Newcastle.

Mine have gone a little yellowish as of yet, will see, I don't mind blue pipes really - is it bad if they blue? I know you can blue metals with blowtorch.

I need new bolts too, if you find the type let me know

Great to hear about motorcarb, think I'll wait to see what you feel about the 65s. See how the mid range feels and if it's good I'll try them too - bet you're excited huh

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Thats the one dk motorcycles!! Aint been there for ages i might take my bike there and see what they say about my headers i personally think its a little to much blueing on mine but well c .

Www.projex-uk.co.uk check that if your interested in dyno runs or dyno set up

Quote from: Jayke on March 03, 2014, 12:27:04 PMPs ; just thought I'd mention, the mid range, about 5-7 feels a tad flat, possibly because I settled for a 62.5 mid main rather than a 65, what are you guys thoughts ?

Is there a jump in power as you hit 7K RPM?

You may very well be able to adjust by simply raising the needles a little bit

Dk are great, never had a problem with em, have a nice selection of bikes and gear too!

Will give that site a check, cause I am indeed interested, when everything is done I will be getting her dyno'd

Rado - from 1-5k maybe the power is great, then the power from around 5-7k feels very flat compared to it, asif there's something missing. Messing with the needles is the only thing I didn't do when I rejetted,  had alot of trouble with getting one of the carb tops off, even after sawing a place to use a flat head. Wouldn't come out! I assume that's where the needles are, anyway. I can't be sure!:) - video is being uploaded now of the sound difference. Will post it up

As for the power jumping at 7k, I don't think so. Didn't notice anything really. :/

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Hole or flat spot passing through 5-7K shows that you need to slightly lower the needles or possibly upsize the main; this is because the top end is leaner than the bottom end.  This is why the whole discussion of the EU/UK having different needles due to the much smaller main.  By lowering the needle you'll reduce the fuel flow when the slide is partly raised (low end) but not affect the top end.  That's the reason why I asked for clarification on the symptoms to see how it would have to be adjusted.

But yes the needles are in the slides under the top caps.  You'll want to remove the cap (careful there's a spring under there) then pull out the diaphragm with the slides; in the well of the slide there is a white plug holding the needle in place (there's another spring between the plug and the needle)

Quote from: radodrill on March 03, 2014, 05:03:35 PM
Hole or flat spot passing through 5-7K shows that you need to slightly lower the needles or possibly upsize the main; this is because the top end is leaner than the bottom end.  This is why the whole discussion of the EU/UK having different needles due to the much smaller main.  By lowering the needle you'll reduce the fuel flow when the slide is partly raised (low end) but not affect the top end.  That's the reason why I asked for clarification on the symptoms to see how it would have to be adjusted.

But yes the needles are in the slides under the top caps.  You'll want to remove the cap (careful there's a spring under there) then pull out the diaphragm with the slides; in the well of the slide there is a white plug holding the needle in place (there's another spring between the plug and the needle)

Well the only thing I didn't mess with as I said was the needle, so that could explain it. I could get 3 screws off on the top, one would just not have any.

Guess I will have to take another look. Gonna check the plugs tomorrow to see how its running, cleaned them off before I went for a long ride earlier.

Need a better test, went out at 6pm ish, so was rush hour and no places to try it out.

Here is the comparison

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N_m_YA80HyU&feature=youtu.be

As I said, to get it perfect you need to do some tweaking and address bot the top and bottom of the carbs.

BTW, we also want to hear hard revving rather than just blipping the throttle a bit.

How does it respond to slow/slight changes to the throttle?  If you slowly increase the throttle it should follow smoothly without hesitation; twist fast and hold, it should quickly ramp up as soon as you start twisting.