Hey everyone,
I am happy to say that I recently purchased my first motorcycle, a 1990 GS500E, earlier this spring.  I took a MSF Safety course and got my license soon after that.  So far, I am having a good time tinkering with the bike and riding it.  I rode dirt bikes when I was younger, so I was not entirely new to the scene.

I got a good deal on the bike because it was not running when I bought it.  The bike would turn over, but wouldn't fire.  Within about an hour of having it home, I had the carbs torn apart with the help of my dad (guy with lots of tools and mechanical skill).  One of the first things I learned is tearing it apart is the easiest part!

After cleaning the carbs thoroughly in a cheap ultrasonic cleaner, they looked much better.  Bike fired up without too much of a problem but there was still quite a bit of work that could be done (isn't there always?).

Here is just a quick rundown on some of the things we've done in the past few months:
-cosmetic: painted handlebars, exhaust, front fender, rear sprocket, footpeg brackets
-tank: cleaned using electrolysis with decent results
-carbs: thorough cleaning, rejet, tune up (idle, mixture, float height, sync)
-oil: new oil and filter
-replacement parts: carb boots (airbox side), carb T seals, carb o-rings

Bike runs pretty good now, though it might be a bit lean.  We had an inline fuel filter installed, but the bike was occasionally cutting out when driven at highway speed.  We drained the tank through the filter, but it didn't seem to flow much faster when we took the filter out.  However, it drives and sounds much better now.  I also noticed that the main petcock diaphragm has little holes in it, so I have been running the bike in prime (silly that you can't buy that piece).  Might still need a few tweaks, but overall running very nice.

Picture the day it came home:


First flush of the tank after electrolysis:


I'll do my best to get more current pictures up soon.

I must say, this forum has been really helpful so far!  Thanks to everyone who has contributed!

Welcome Cyclone,
Something with a bike that old (how many miles on it?) be sure you flush brake lines and check your valve clearances.  It's actually easier to check the valves than cleaning carbs IMO, and it's needed fairly often on these bikes (every 4-6K). 

Quote from: ace50 on June 25, 2014, 09:31:06 AM
Welcome Cyclone,
Something with a bike that old (how many miles on it?) be sure you flush brake lines and check your valve clearances.  It's actually easier to check the valves than cleaning carbs IMO, and it's needed fairly often on these bikes (every 4-6K). 

Hah, I was going to mention clearances as well, and it is definitely easier than cleaning the carbs when you have the newer models with PAIR and the piston lift system.  I only cleaned the jets, but looks like you have done quite a bit more work there, so a valve clearance check should be no biggie.

My clearances were all tight after 10k (I got her at 9.5), and she runs like a different bike now that they're back in spec.  If you have idling issues or have to choke her for a long time (my two issues) then I'd seriously look into it.  The hardest part is not being able to ride her while waiting for new shims.

Welcome to the gang.

welcome!

Thanks for the heads up guys.  The bike has 26k miles.  I actually did check the valve clearances already, just forgot to mention it.  The intake clearances were toward the lower end of the spec but still fine.  The exhaust side clearances were a little too big (0.1mm if I remember correctly?)  If I understand it correctly, is this very critical since the valves will just be closing a little early?

Now that I'm finished on the "must" projects to get the bike roadworthy, I will be going through all of the routine maintenance suggested in the Clymer manual, which should probably be considered a must as well.

Exhaust clearance slightly above specs should be fine and the valves will run cooler and hold their adjustment longer.

regards
Mech

Quote from: Old Mechanic on June 25, 2014, 03:40:41 PM
Exhaust clearance slightly above specs should be fine and the valves will run cooler and hold their adjustment longer.

I third the motion that slightly large exhaust clearances are a good thing.  Apparently the .03-.08 clearance is a little too tight for the exhaust valves and you'll end up constantly changing shims if you try to keep it there.  I have mine at 0.1mm right now and she runs way better than before (under .0015" on all clearances).  If you did go with spec I'd keep it at 0.08 at the very minimum.