I set intakes (actually leave them) at the .03-.08 mm Suzuki spec and now set exhausts at my wider .08-.13 mm spec.  My valve log for 180k miles on 2 GSs:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v443/jcp8832/GSvalvelogs_zps9ef7236a.jpg

If the 262 shim gives your left intake .10 mm clearance leave it and put the 262 from the left exhaust in the right intake.

Before you remove the 262 from the left exhaust check to see if you can rotate the bucket/shim with your finger with the cam lobe turned away from the shim, if you can a 250 should bring it into the new wider spec range.  A new 260 should fix the right exhaust. 

REF:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v443/jcp8832/gs500signalgenerators_zps2134172a.jpg

Quote from: gsJack on July 09, 2014, 09:39:18 PM
I set intakes (actually leave them) at the .03-.08 mm Suzuki spec and now set exhausts at my wider .08-.13 mm spec.  My valve log for 180k miles on 2 GSs:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v443/jcp8832/GSvalvelogs_zps9ef7236a.jpg

If the 262 shim gives your left intake .10 mm clearance leave it and put the 262 from the left exhaust in the right intake.

Before you remove the 262 from the left exhaust check to see if you can rotate the bucket/shim with your finger with the cam lobe turned away from the shim, if you can a 250 should bring it into the new wider spec range.  A new 260 should fix the right exhaust. 

REF:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v443/jcp8832/gs500signalgenerators_zps2134172a.jpg

Thank you very much for your advice, gsJack!

I didn't think about swapping the Left Exhaust Shim to Right Intake! Great idea!

I was able to rotate the shims and buckets on Left/Right Intake and Right Exhaust.

I wasn't able to rotate the bucket on Left Exhaust, but I think I was able to rotate the shim around though.

I will try again tomorrow to double check everything.

I don't know what to do if I can't slide a feeler gauge or rotate the shim bucket on the Left Exhaust...!

You mentioned last post you had a tight bucket on the left exhaust and was going to check it again in the morning, I assume it's still tight?  If so try checking for compression in that cylinder with the 262 shim in it.  If you have cold compression you'll probably be OK with putting in a 250 shim, at least you'll be able to get a reading on it.  With the shim out and cam lobe away see if you can turn the bucket, if so then it's just a tight valve and you'll probably need a even smaller shim.

Quote from: gsJack on July 11, 2014, 09:14:32 PM
You mentioned last post you had a tight bucket on the left exhaust and was going to check it again in the morning, I assume it's still tight?  If so try checking for compression in that cylinder with the 262 shim in it.  If you have cold compression you'll probably be OK with putting in a 250 shim, at least you'll be able to get a reading on it.  With the shim out and cam lobe away see if you can turn the bucket, if so then it's just a tight valve and you'll probably need a even smaller shim.

Yeah, I tried again checking all the shims the next day and the results are the same. I ordered an extra 2.50 and 2.55 shim in case, and hopefully they will fit and give me the necessary clearance I need. Or get find out what is the actually clearance. Good tip on rotating the bucket. I actually didn't think about that

I also decided to upgrade the air box to a k&n air filter, and I ordered 20/65/145 jets along with it. There is a slight improvement as well when I turn down the mixture screws to 3.5 turns, but the bike still doesn't feel the same stable yet.

I hope the following week I can fine tune the bike to be more stable. Didn't think installing a slip-on would affect the bike's functionality that significantly

I am very thankful for everyone's assistance and knowledge on this! I will keep the updates coming

Look at it this way: the slip on exhaust made you question your bikes performance, and now you know your valves were out of spec. Don't really want to ignore those valves.....

Quote from: Big Rich on July 11, 2014, 11:57:17 PM
Look at it this way: the slip on exhaust made you question your bikes performance, and now you know your valves were out of spec. Don't really want to ignore those valves.....

True! Very true! I am actually glad I did the valve clearance check. It's been a fun, stressful learning experience for me.

It's just the rejetting that concerns me the most, because I understand its like a black art. Just have to keep fine tuning it to get the perfect combo.

Also the exhaust is so much louder now... lol! I'm worry I am distributing my neighbors when I warm her up. I might have to find a way to make a DIY baffle for it.

Hello everyone! And thank you to everyone who help me out with this dilemma so far. Much appreciated.

The shims arrived today! I went straight to the bike to install them.

Valve Clearance Before:

Left Exhaust		Right Exhaust		Left Intake		Right Intake
Shim Size:	2.62	Shim Size:	2.67	Shim Size:	2.62	Shim Size:	2.62
Clearance:	N/A	Clearance:	0.04	Clearance:	0.10	Clearance:	0.08
New Shim:	N/A	New Shim:	2.61	New Shim:	2.64	New Shim:	None

New Valve Clearance:

Left Exhaust		Right Exhaust		Left Intake		Right Intake
Shim Size:	2.50	Shim Size:	2.60	Shim Size:	2.62	Shim Size:	2.62
Clearance:	0.07	Clearance:	0.07	Clearance:	0.05	Clearance:	0.08

I believe this resolves the valve clearance adjustments! I made sure to face down the shims so next time I check or someone else they can actually read the shim.

Thank you for everyone's help once again!

Now I am just waiting for those mikuni pilot/main jets to arrive. It was rather extremely difficult to find a place that would ship to Canada without $25+ shipping

Buddha ships to canadia, India and china ... only charges $5 more for shipping.
Anyway 145 with K&N and slip on may be lean. With 65, you should be good with 20/147.5. On the screws 3.5 turns is OK. You need to worry after 5 turns ...
Cool.
Buddha.

Quote from: The Buddha on July 18, 2014, 06:50:20 PM
Buddha ships to canadia, India and china ... only charges $5 more for shipping.
Anyway 145 with K&N and slip on may be lean. With 65, you should be good with 20/147.5. On the screws 3.5 turns is OK. You need to worry after 5 turns ...
Cool.
Buddha.

Hello Buddha!

Thanks for the suggestions and the offer!

Someone mentioned to me you sell a kit... I should've PM you instead about those jets.

If I do end up needing a 147.5 jets would you be able to sell me a pair? What else do you sell for GS500 E/F? For future reference

Hello,

I've done a few changes and tune up to the bike.

Installed K&N Lunchbox with Yoshi TRS exhaust now.
Jets used are 20/65/145 (Pilots/Mid Main/Main) - 3.5 Turns.

I am experiencing some high idle and a weird sound at idle (sounds like the bike is farting somewhere).

I have a video recording of the sound, and was wondering if anyone know what is causing this sound?
https://vid.me/sSx

Quote from: iceman86 on September 08, 2014, 06:08:29 PM
Hello,

I've done a few changes and tune up to the bike.

Installed K&N Lunchbox with Yoshi TRS exhaust now.
Jets used are 20/65/145 (Pilots/Mid Main/Main) - 3.5 Turns.

I am experiencing some high idle and a weird sound at idle (sounds like the bike is farting somewhere).

I have a video recording of the sound, and was wondering if anyone know what is causing this sound?
https://vid.me/sSx

I have  Yosh TRS too on a 96 with 02 carbs but with airbox and stock filter.
High idle - make sure you dont have any air leaks or exhaust leavs etc etc, and give the air screws another 1/2 turn (how much is it hanging)
farting elsewhere - exactly where and under what circumstances ... details.
Cool.
buddha.

Hello,

I started up the bike just now to identify the farting sound.

The sound is coming out of this tube right here:

(The long tube hanging out on the side of the bike.)


(The tube hanging off screen on the bottom left - seems to be connected to the front of the carbs intake slot area).

------

Update:
After some closer observation I believe the hose is the vacuum hose that should be connected to the petcock.
Video Reference: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AJh1hxNf7BA#t=1013

After I slide the hose back in place to the petcock I notice the sound was still occurring, and this time it was the left side of the K&N Lunchbox making the sound.
I realize this hose was sucking air in. I put my thumb over it and the bike steadily climb up in rpms leading to high idle.

I have no idea what is causing this farting sound to occur

Dude I am nearly sure that tube gotta be plugged up or connected to some ridiculously complicated and in accessible charcoal cannister ...
Put your finger over it and check for vacuum. If the farting stops, well you've found the Butthole of your bike. Plug it and you'll be OK.
Cool.
Buddha.

Ok! I finally sorted out the hose issue I had.

1) The hose I mention above was indeed a vacuum hose that is suppose to be connected to the backside of the petcock (refer to this video)
*It wasn't the charcoal canister, Buddha! I checked and notice a hose was already connected in there .

2) The below hose was also not connected on the left carbs. I plugged it back in.

(Image taken from Vertigo from this post/thread, thank you! Just using it as reference)

I went for a 20mins ride around to test out the bike. The results for the time being is the following:

1) Start/Warm Up are quicker now (have not experience high idle yet).
2) Throttle is a lot more responsive
3) Exhaust is roaring like a beast when I want it to!
4) No farting sounds, but still a few pops coming from exhaust on hard acceleration I think.

Thanks for everyone's help! Particularly the great Buddha of course! I'll keep yall posted if anything changes

Quote from: The Buddha on July 04, 2014, 07:40:01 PM
If it drops to below the set idle rpm when you release the throttle and comes back to idle - you're rich.
If you are lean after fully warm, the bike will idle @ 3K or somewhere round that, if it idles 1200 or so when cold.
If it takes longer than 30 seconds in summer to where it will hold idle without choke - you're lean.
OTOH, if it will start without choke in summer - you're prolly a wee bit rich ... if it will do that in winter you're very rich.
Cool.
Buddha.

I'm having hanging idle at 3K after warm up and backfire in carbs, valves are fine. I shortened my stock exhaust nearly two years ago and problems since than. thanks for this tip, I guess I need rejet too 

hanging idle means the idle is set too fast. Most likely cause of that is you set the idle mixture before the bike was fully warmed up, or there is some other cause of low idle like vacuum leaks. Reset the idle mixture after you have ridden 20 minutes on the road (not on center stand), and then set the idle as low as it will idle, don't necessarily try to aim for 1200 rpm. Then if you have hanging idle after it's very warm (long ride), lower the idle speed a tiny bit at a time until it goes away, or likewise if you have idle droop (drops below the specified idle speed and then returns) then raise the idle speed a touch. Takes a bit of tuning with your right hand while at stop lights to get it truly dialed in perfectly, but the key is to not make any idle adjustments until it's completely and fully warmed up.

It will likely run very poorly when taken completely off choke until it has been running like 5 minutes, so don't assume something's wrong if you try to take it off choke after 30 seconds and it stalls at idle.