You should be able to now

Your video is working now, looks like a loose starter clutch is your problem afterall and not a balancer shaft bearing like mechanic suggested.  That outer starter clutch member you are moving should be bolted tight to the rotor backside and not move.  Pull the rotor and fix it.

Another quick look at your video, not sure but it also looks like the rotor is loose on the crankshaft taper a bit.  If that's the case you can just remove the 12 mm bolt and pull the rotor off and won't need the 14 mm bolt and 36 mm spacer to pull it.

I tried removing the large bolt in the middle to pull it off with an assistant on the rear brake and the bike in gear but it would not budge at all

Removing that bolt is a piece of cake with an impact wrench like Rob used and like Addy showed on his video but I didn't even have electricity in the garage where I worked on mine so I did it the old fashion way.

Not having an assistant I used a piece of 2x4 thru the rear wheel spokes above the swingarm to hold the wheel from turning.  Used a 18" long 1/2" drive breaker bar on the bolt with a 6 point socket and leaned on that.  With bike in gear I found the clutch slipped just before the bolt broke loose so noting point where it slipped I leaned on it up to just before that point and gave it a good snap.  It finally broke loose on the 2nd or 3rd try.  If that hadn't worked I'd have looked to block gears somewhere to hold it while breaking it loose like Addy did in his video.

There's about 80-90 footpounds of torque specked for that bolt and I also found the clutch slipping when putting the rotor back on later but finally managed to get it above 80 ft/lbs. 

Gotta get it off somehow.

I might see if a friend has a rattle gun otherwise I'll do it the other way

My mate had a rattle gun i can borrow I have never used one on a bike before as there any precautions I should be aware of? Like in gear out of gear etc

Be wary with rattle guns on bike bolts, still useable but set the.gun on lowest torque first and double check direction of spin. .. then if low torque doesn't work just edge it up a little at a time... oh and make sure you have precisely the right socket!
Internal type steel bolts and nuts 'should' be ok... don't also test it on anything that goes into a case or cover.. that is not steel/steel and not a good idea. .. bunnings do sell a quite good torque wrench for reasonable money (blue plastic case) and they come with a shaft size adaptor for smaller drive size too...
Ideally prefer a torque over a rattle. .. and ring spanners  over crescent wrenches. ..  and ALWAYS the EXACT size! unless you already have a munted bolt head. .. then you use what works to get the bastard out! Lol

Oops forgot. .. if you do rattle it off. . Hand torque it back on again ! ... rattles are NOT precision focussed

Hi Jimbob,

I had the loose rotor saga which I had to repair twice due to my lack of knowledge.

Couple of pointers, the "rope in the piston" trick actually works very well to lock the crank, and the locktite I mention in my post will prevent having to go back in a second time as I did.

http://www.gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=67052

Good luck
Brett


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+1  Brett

There was some debate a while back on whether to lap or Locktite the rotor on the taper or both.  I did both last spring repairing my loose starter clutch and it's been good since. 

Here's a video of a guy lapping the taper on a Lambretta crank that might be of interest to anyone that's never lapped anything:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bezP0s0NtLc

After lapping mine and cleaning off the lapping compound I put the rotor on the crank firmly by hand and found it difficult to get back off.  It had a good sucking fit and held tight without the bolt.

My vote, lap and Locktite.

I have loctite ready for when I put it back together how does the rope in piston work?

I got the main bolt out with the rattle gun but I'm having difficulty remove the rotor even with a different bolt and spacer. Any tips?

All good got it didn't know that much force was going to be necessary

So tightened up and it seems good so far. Do you guys put blue loctite on these bolts to stop them from unwinding? Also what does the spring and then 2 metal parts do? Are they suppose to put pressure on the bolts or something?

Locktite I mentioned in my post was 666 (if I remember correctly), it guess on the taper. I also put some mild std locktite on the bolt. The piston/string method is also mentioned in the post.

The only springs I can think off are the ones that push the dogs out to catch the crankshaft when one starts.


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Quote from: Jimbob on October 03, 2014, 01:57:13 AM
So tightened up and it seems good so far. Do you guys put blue loctite on these bolts to stop them from unwinding? Also what does the spring and then 2 metal parts do? Are they suppose to put pressure on the bolts or something?

You tightened up the existing 3 bolts?  Should be new bolts when you had a loose clutch and I used blue threadlock on them and also on the lapped rotor taper when assembling.  Two man job, I held the rotor with my hands while my wife pulled the torque wrench up to 15 ft/lbs on the 3 bolts holding the clutch to the rotor.

Like bmf said, the only springs are the three pushing the locking rollers (dogs) into the wedge shape in the clutch, they lock up the clutch when starter motor is driving the crank and then roll free in there after engine starts and runs away from the starter motor.  Showed those parts from my bike in a previous post above.

Be sure the starter clutch is working right before you put the side covers back on.  After I put the repaired rotor/clutch assembly back on I grabbed the big gear on the back of the rotor and turned it ccw and it turned the crank and then cw and it turned free and did that repeatedly and it all seemed to be working OK.  When assembling the clutch it can be a bit tricky getting the hub on the big sprocket back into the clutch assembly without one of those spring loaded parts getting out of place. 

Okay well I will get 3 new bolts, you can't use the existing bolts with loctite? One of those rollers was lose and I had to put it back in. Do they ever cause issues if one is looser than the others?

I just ordered the new bolts but they will take a few days