Just found a crack in the engine 

Gutted is an understatement 



Chris

That sucks, I'm sorry!


Where on the engine is this?

Also, how?  Did you crash?

On the front of the crankcase, on the right hand side where it bolts to the frame.

Chris

Ah, I see it now.  The photo is technically upside-down.

Did you hit something?

Yeah my phone keeps doing that.

I sent it up the road a while back, and didn't notice it then, it could've happened then. Might have been there before that to be honest. I've only now really started trying to clear the dirt and grime off the bike. The oil is leaking from the new tach drive, which is infuriating by itself. Just put so much time, effort and money into it and those little cracks seem like a death blow.

I know what you mean about that dirt and grime... soon as I saw the pic I knew exactly where that little "shelf" is on the bike, right behind the pipes. Sooooo much crud gets tossed there from the road unless there's a long enough fender (and my stupid self ran without one for a while)... I'm glad I read your project thread before I saw this one. I hope that stuff mr72 suggested will work out for you! First thing is though is to see how deep the cracks are. I'm rooting for you 63!!

Thanks SBW. I'm keeping my fingers crossed.

did she overheat? i wonder if the crack is just a surface crack, could it handle say being welded? might be some hope there iirc the engine case is aluminum.
Aaron

Quote from: yamahonkawazuki on December 21, 2016, 12:40:05 PM
did she overheat? i wonder if the crack is just a surface crack, could it handle say being welded? might be some hope there iirc the engine case is aluminum.
Aaron

I've just found this thread. So I'm less concerned, I didn't know what was on the other side of that, but now I know it's the mounting bot I'm not as worried.

Looking down the profile of the bike though I does seem to lean to the left a little, and the wheel seems to favour the left, while the fender favours the right. I think te frame might be a little twisted.

Quote from: yamahonkawazuki on December 21, 2016, 12:40:05 PM
did she overheat? i wonder if the crack is just a surface crack, could it handle say being welded?

You generally can't weld cast parts, or so I am told. That's why I suggested the plastic steel putty which is certainly as strong as cast aluminum. I used it in my Miata to mount the transmission to the engine block (engine had a broken mounting ear). I think it'll hold up fine on a GS with far less stress.

Does this look like it's leaning to anyone else?

Kind of hard to tell, to be honest. But if the bike went down at speed, frame bending/twisting is a possibility.

Quote from: the_63 on December 22, 2016, 07:10:20 AM
Does this look like it's leaning to anyone else?

looks completely sideways to me!! Way more severe than I would have expected.

  
It's only subtle but I don't feel like it's level. There are too many horizontals in the garge lining up for the floor or the roof to be wonky. Seems like the brake side (right) is a few mm higher. Also the centre tread of the tyre is situated more to the right than the fender.

I've checked the other motor mounting points and none of them are cracked or twisted like I'd expect if the frame had bent. Maybe when I put the forks back in I didn't line them up properly...

My front wheel isn't precisely centered in the fork either, FWIW. I'm sure the fork could be aligned better on mine.

Quote from: mr72 on December 22, 2016, 08:37:37 AM
My front wheel isn't precisely centered in the fork either, FWIW. I'm sure the fork could be aligned better on mine.

It's just because it's not symmetrical. I'm so relieved that those cracks aren't detrimental. 

Chris

I've welded the cast crap that passes for aluminum in these engine cases a plenty. Even where it sees oil, even where stuff like starter and idler pivots go (on a savage) and heck even the cam chain tunnel in the savage. You just need to scrape the living day lights out of it for 1" all the way across where you wanna weld. That spot is nice and thick. It'll take plenty of heat. Just make sure the welder has a clean area to work on, and good access - a tig welder isn't as huge as a wire feed welder, but you want to shave inside the thing too, so he can work in a V instead of a tiny slot.
Find a good welder and it will essentially be fine, just look fugly as sheite - but will be OK.
Cool.
Buddha.

Buddha what do you think of using Devcon PSP for that? Compared with welding? It's much cheaper and DIY. Enquiring minds want to know.

Quote from: mr72 on December 22, 2016, 06:58:55 AM

Quote from: yamahonkawazuki on December 21, 2016, 12:40:05 PM
did she overheat? i wonder if the crack is just a surface crack, could it handle say being welded?

You generally can't weld cast parts

A few weeks ago I got well and truly pissed off with the amount of BS that was being spouted on this site and as a result kinda lost interest. Tonight I drifted back and hit on this thread.

If as we are being told cast parts particularly engine cases can't be welded someone had better tell this guy.....http://www.allmetalweldingservices.co.uk/MobileOnsiteMotorcycleWeldingRepairs.html

Keep up the good work, nice to see I havent been let down, remember people.......every forum needs input from the experienced 

[quote author=sledge link=topic=71219.msg856309#msg856309 date=1484434000

A few weeks ago I got well and truly pissed off with the amount of BS that was being spouted on this site and as a result kinda lost interest. Tonight I drifted back and hit on this thread.

If as we are being told cast parts particularly engine cases can't be welded someone had better tell this guy.....http://www.allmetalweldingservices.co.uk/MobileOnsiteMotorcycleWeldingRepairs.html

Keep up the good work, nice to see I havent been let down, remember people.......every forum needs input from the experienced 
[/quote]

Cheers Sledge, turns out I'm in the caption area for this guys mobile welding too 

Chris