Installed a Kat' 600 rear and Progressives yesterday.  Here are a couple of things that made my day interesting:

1.  the previous owner of my bike painted over the fork brace because it was starting to rust.  well, the allen bolts were stuck onto the brace with paint.  those bolts also round off if the wind hits them just right.  i left them on, because i didn't have any replacements...but this looks like a job for the Dremel.  by the way, if i ever find the guy who sold me this bike, i'm making him stick his hand in a deep fryer.

2.  stock springs on a GS are total ass.  i was insulted as i pulled them out.  why the h*ll would you make a bike so lovely in every other regard, but use *these* things for fork springs.  they wouldn't dampen a fart properly.

3.  my fork oil was *black*.  see above re: deep fryer.

4.  vive Kerry!  i used the five minute epoxy tool, and it worked like a charm.

Now, i didn't get a chance to ride that much, but I can already tell the bike handles like a totally different beast.  I love it.  Here's what i did specifically:

Replaced fork seals
15w fork oil 130mm from top with fork fully compressed
Progressive springs
Stock spacers cut to .75"
Kat 600 rear shock (5 preload, 2 rebound)

I'm a little curious about the Kat shock settings.  I'm about 185 lbs with gear, so I wonder if these are the right settings.  Any advice on this?

high quality post up there!  

laughter and facts bundled together... ah, sweet nectar of life...  :mrgreen:

actually I am curious as how to replace the seals on the fork. I can understand changing oil & springs but the seals lose me?    I dont  think I am picturing it correctly.  :dunno:

is it just like a gasket that you pull out?



(this is where Kerry will probably step in with a set of how-to pics)

Nope, I haven't taken a real set of How-To pics yet.  (Sorry!)  I'm finding out that when I wrench with someone else I don't want to slow down the process.  This set will have to wait until I do my OWN fork seals, I'm afraid.

But in the meantime, some good info sources are available that will give you some idea of what's involved.

First, a Haynes or Clymer manual would be a very good investment.  The manuals have walked ME through almost everything I've learned; I just take "supplemental" photos as I go through it.

Second, start HERE in joefromsf's thread about replacing his seals.  The tool he came up with will easily get you to the point you're wondering about.

Third, from that point use this BikeBandit diagram as your guide:

*

Gently pry up the dust seal (item 7).
* Remove the metal retaining clip (item 6).
* Pull up repeatedly on the inner fork tube (item 8 ) until the oil seal (item 5) is forced from the outer tube (item 1).
* If the oil looks "yucky" you should dump it, clean everything, and pour in new fork oil.  Stock weight = 10W, some prefer 15W.  The springs you use will be the biggest factor in determining the amount of new fork oil to put in.[/list:u]Hope this helps!  It was kinda from memory, so additions & corrections & helpful tips are welcome....

The factory manual calls for 99mm oil level. How did you come up with 130mm?

As for the seals. You remove the clip under the dust seal. Then when you get the bolt out of the bottom and pull the fork apart, the seal will be forced out. Just give a couple good pulls to knock it out.
Put some grease inside the new seal and slide it on the fork tube (after it's reassembled). Then take the old seal and slide it down on top of the new seal. Tap the old seal with a hammer (without hitting the fork tube) and get the new seal 90% in place. Finish it off with a punch on the outer edge to get it seated all the way.

Quote from: Bob BroussardThe factory manual calls for 99mm oil level. How did you come up with 130mm?

Which factory? Suzuki or the manufacturer of the progeressives? The progressives take up more room, so you have to leave more air in when filling up. The progressives that are common in Europe state around 130 mm as well, if they give info.

Thanks Kerry!  

I got 130mm from the posts here about the new fork oil level to use with the Progressive springs.

I used Kerry's 'method' to get the old seals out.  

Drain fork
Pry off dust seal
Remove retaining clip
Extend fork forcefully

The extending motion uses the washer underneath the fork seal to drive it out.  It's really quite easy once you have the fork apart.