I also can conform the above. While you have the oil pan of clean the oil strain as well.

Quote from: Kookas on July 16, 2018, 11:34:59 AM

Quote from: J_Walker on July 16, 2018, 07:41:50 AM
what kind of sick joke is restricting a GS500? Mine unrestricted can't even pull away from most new cars... 

I would say 0-60 in 5.5 seconds is still pretty competitive against low-end and mid-end cars (and this is a low-end bike). True that it won't beat anything vaguely sporty, but it at least puts up a fight. I haven't yet beaten a car that was actively trying, but of course, only drivers who know their car is fast would be interested in trying to race a bike, so it's a biased sample - they were all tuned hot-hatches

That said, restricting it is pretty stupid, yeah, it's the equivalent of a modern 300 in real terms. The 0-60 and top speed are pretty much identical to a Ninja 300. Actually, the reason I bought this was exactly because I don't need to restrict it, whereas the more popular SV-650 I would have to.

Really? 0 to 60 in 5.5 seconds? Mine does 0 to 60 in well under 4 seconds. Around 3.4 seconds 0 to 60 and i think it's quicker than that. Though it is highly modified. It will do over 60 in second gear. I smash V8's off the line no problem at all, let alone some little rice burner.
Hell, the other week we went down the great ocean road and my mate was on his GSXR1300 Hyabusa and i absolutely smashed him in the twisty's.

Quote from: sledge on July 16, 2018, 01:09:35 PM
Stock FZs 600 Fazer = 95hp
Stock GS500 = 51hp
Restricted GS500 = 33hp...(and inferior to the Fazer)


Can't say I am surprised to hear you say you feel there is something 'missing' 

So what happened to the Fazer??

51 hp at the crank about 37 at the rear wheel

As for the original question, the holes on the bottom of the carb are open on the stock carb but, if you buy a dyno jet kit they say to block one hole and they provide a plug to do so. That increases the vacuum in the diaphram and raises the slide quicker, which will provide better acceleration if the bike is tuned correctly.  I'm not 100% sure having that hole blocked as a huge issue, and i don't think it's your problem.
As for the hole in the upper part of the slide, i myself have never seen that before. My bike certainly doesn't have a hole there and i don't recall ever seeing a picture of a slide with a hole there.
The jet sizes you have in the carbs are standard sizes for an R or S model bike.
Give the carbs an ultrasonic clean and see how you go. I have an ultrasonic cleaner and they cannot be beaten for cleaning carbs.
Make sure you set the float hight correctly.
Have a look inside the carb boots and make sure there aren't any restrictor washers in them.

Quote from: crackin on July 19, 2018, 05:13:47 AM
Really? 0 to 60 in 5.5 seconds? Mine does 0 to 60 in well under 4 seconds. Around 3.4 seconds 0 to 60 and i think it's quicker than that. Though it is highly modified. It will do over 60 in second gear. I smash V8's off the line no problem at all, let alone some little rice burner.
Hell, the other week we went down the great ocean road and my mate was on his GSXR1300 Hyabusa and i absolutely smashed him in the twisty's.

Damn, under 4 seconds?! That's definitely not the stock time. What's your setup?

Dyno jet carb kit and K&S lunchbox filter, ran the bike in the dyno a couple of times to things right. Making 43HP at the rear wheel. The bike is stripped down to only the essentials, it weighs 160kg wet. Enigne is bored 1mm oversize, but that does next to nothing in the scheme of things. Open stainless baffle and custom made 15 degree merge on the stock headers. Vortex rearsets which allow me to run GP shift for fast, solid clutchless gear changes.
I may have miss quoted myself saying it does over 60 in second, probably just click in third, LOL
Anyways, I am the Gobshite of the forum and every forum needs one 

Just did a couple of runs and speedo is indicating 110 in second gear.

So I checked my valves. I have a feeler gauge that shows only from 0.05mm with 0.05mm range.
Both intake valves are less than 0.05mm.
Right ex. valve is more than 0.1mm but less than 0.15mm.
Left ex. valve is more than 0.05mm but less than 0.1mm.

So how accurate is this engine to valve clearances if they are a little bit out of spec?

Maybe I just have to get a more accurate feeler gauge. I try to take shims off tomorrow and measure what size they are. I have already 4 shims from my spare engine so hopefully i dont have to buy new shims.

Quote from: j0nes on July 22, 2018, 01:48:54 PM
So I checked my valves. I have a feeler gauge that shows only from 0.05mm with 0.05mm range.
Both intake valves are less than 0.05mm.
Right ex. valve is more than 0.1mm but less than 0.15mm.
Left ex. valve is more than 0.05mm but less than 0.1mm.

So how accurate is this engine to valve clearances if they are a little bit out of spec?

Maybe I just have to get a more accurate feeler gauge. I try to take shims off tomorrow and measure what size they are. I have already 4 shims from my spare engine so hopefully i dont have to buy new shims.

if i remember right, it isn't that accurate, +-0,6mm is ok, or atleast was in the book

Lähetetty minun G8341 laitteesta Tapatalkilla

Quote from: Meukowi on July 22, 2018, 10:19:26 PM

Quote from: j0nes on July 22, 2018, 01:48:54 PM
So I checked my valves. I have a feeler gauge that shows only from 0.05mm with 0.05mm range.
Both intake valves are less than 0.05mm.
Right ex. valve is more than 0.1mm but less than 0.15mm.
Left ex. valve is more than 0.05mm but less than 0.1mm.

So how accurate is this engine to valve clearances if they are a little bit out of spec?

Maybe I just have to get a more accurate feeler gauge. I try to take shims off tomorrow and measure what size they are. I have already 4 shims from my spare engine so hopefully i dont have to buy new shims.

if i remember right, it isn't that accurate, +-0,6mm is ok, or atleast was in the book

Lähetetty minun G8341 laitteesta Tapatalkilla

or +-0,06.. dont quote me on that

Lähetetty minun G8341 laitteesta Tapatalkilla

Yes you need more accurate feeler gauges. Max clearance is .08 mm and min clearance is when they start knocking.
You did have the crank in the correct position/positions I assume.
You can have the shim's machined at your local head reconditioning shop with no issues (I do it all the time) but you need to be able to tell the how much to take of each shim you give them. Those guys usually work in thou, so you will have to convert your measurements. I usually have 2 thou removed and very occasionally 3. Make very sure they remove hte metal from the underside of the shim, the side with the stamp on it.
You need to check to see if you have any clearance at all on your intakes. Your exhaust's are probably going to be ok even though the right one is out of spec. In reality its only a couple of hair thickness' out. But if it flies out at high revs, I'm not responsible but I highly doubt it will.

Okay so the clearances were :
L exhaust: 0.08
R exhaust: 0.1-0.13
L intake: less than 0.03
R intake: less than 0.03

I didn't have valve tool so I put a zip tie to sparkplug hole to lock valves. It was easy to do intake side but little bit harder to exhaust side so i left it to 0.1 clearance.

So intake clearances are now:
L 0.06
R 0.07

I also cleaned carbs but should everything be like this in a needle:

You don't need that metal washer on your needles, you have adjustable needles.

Quote from: j0nes on July 28, 2018, 09:03:04 AM
Okay so the clearances were :
L exhaust: 0.08
R exhaust: 0.1-0.13
L intake: less than 0.03
R intake: less than 0.03

I didn't have valve tool so I put a zip tie to sparkplug hole to lock valves. It was easy to do intake side but little bit harder to exhaust side so i left it to 0.1 clearance.

So intake clearances are now:
L 0.06
R 0.07

I also cleaned carbs but should everything be like this in a needle:

i think the correct order is thic plastic white  at the bottom, needle, metal washer and spring holder

Lähetetty minun G8341 laitteesta Tapatalkilla

Okay so i got everything together and replaced some O-rings to carburetors. Made a manometer and synced carbs. Its running idle smoothly now. I tested the bike a little bit at sand road and i think it accelerates much better now. My speedometer isnt hooked up so i dont know how fast it goes and I didnt even change to sixth  gear so i dont know does it go faster than before.

Next thing i have to do is get the lights work. Wires are so messed up so i dont know what previous owner has done to the bike. Rearlight works only when brake and turn signal lights works only sometimes. But i will wait so i get new ignition switch because i dont have any at the moment and im running it just putting wires together Should rear light even work if im running the bike only connecting 2 wires. Because if i look the wiring diagram rear light wires go to the ignition switch and i havent connected those wires.

Quote from: j0nes on July 30, 2018, 05:18:19 AM
Should rear light even work if im running the bike only connecting 2 wires. Because if i look the wiring diagram rear light wires go to the ignition switch and i havent connected those wires.

Sounds right to me. The rear light is on any time the ignition is on.

Quote from: j0nes on July 30, 2018, 05:18:19 AM
Made a manometer and synced carbs. Its running idle smoothly now.

When you hook the Manometer up to your carbs, you want to rev the engine to at least 2,500 rev's and hold it there, and set equal vacuum in each carb. I rev my engine at 4,000 rev's to balance the carbs, but that;s just me. I'm psycho.
The idle should be good if the carbs are balanced,clean and the air/fuel screws are set right.
You don't ride the bike at idle, so who care;s how it idle's, it's all about tuning for midrange power. We want to go fast right?

I have tested the bike alot and results are: Max speed is 140 km/h. It accelerates much faster than before but there is one problem. On the sixth gear when i drive 100 km/h you can only give a little bit throttle. Otherwise it starts going slower. Feels like it doesnt get enough gas. But this happens only on the sixth gear. You can pull full throttle from 4000 rpm on fifth gear and it still accelerates well to 140 km/h but if i change to sixth gear engine loses all power. Is it just old engine and valves or pistonrings leak? I dont think changing jet would help this.

Quote from: j0nes on July 28, 2018, 09:03:04 AM
Okay so the clearances were :
L exhaust: 0.08
R exhaust: 0.1-0.13
L intake: less than 0.03
R intake: less than 0.03

I didn't have valve tool so I put a zip tie to sparkplug hole to lock valves. It was easy to do intake side but little bit harder to exhaust side so i left it to 0.1 clearance.

So intake clearances are now:
L 0.06
R 0.07

I also cleaned carbs but should everything be like this in a needle:

Haynes says the clearances should be between .03 and .08 for all valves but people on this forum usually suggest running the exhaust valves as high as .1

I think maybe you have and issue with the float height. Have you checked them?

Quote from: sledge on July 16, 2018, 06:23:13 AM
It will be a GS500EU, restricted in the factory and sold as a low powered version for learners in some European countries.

They can be converted to full power versions but it involves more than just work to the slides. I know what is involved but won't be telling you because I don't quite understand why you bought it knowing it was restricted and I don't condone what could be an illegal act on the basis yours will be probably registered and insured as a restricted model.

If you want a full fat version just go out and buy one 

I'm interested to know how this bike is be restricted from the factory.
What do you care about legalities? Are you a bikie or a copper?
Don't be such a stick in the mud, just tell us all.

Why do I care about the legallities?

Because I am a sensible and responsible motorcyclist and have been since 1982. As such I am concerned about the safety and wellbeing of others who lack and have yet to develop these qualities. And if you believe that makes me a 'stick in the mud' it says far more about your mindset than it does mine.

I am also particularly concerned about those who ask for help and advice in this forum and blindly accept everything said in here as fact when a lot of it is utter garbage, often spoken by people who don't know what they are talking about themselves and should know better. And in the 15 years I have been a member of this forum I have seen plenty of them!

For many years I turned my hobby into a sideline and found I could buy GS5s that needed work and sell them on for a small profit. I have lost count of the exact number that have passed through my hands but it's around 60-70. That's where my knowledge and experience relating to the model comes from.