So I'm trying to rebuild my rear brakes. Of course, every thing I see is seized solid. I managed to get most stuff free, but thanks to the exhaust position, I can't get a proper tool on the banjo bolt, and of course I can't get a proper tool on the body bolts to split it.

Nothing is even close to moving with just a spanner or tiny ratchet.

The pad pins are also seized solid, it's like they're welded to the caliper.

It might help to remove the exhaust, but I'm not convinced you could do it without pulling the engine, given how close the outer bolts are to the sub-frame. Certainly none of my tools would get on those bolts.

Has anyone ever managed to rebuild this thing?

For pad pins: thin nosed lock pliers, clamp on, dribble wd40 both ends, agitate regularly over several hours, eventually they break free.

Learn lesson: replace pins with shiny new ones, use coppaslip on locating seat and guide hole thereafter, regularly agitate pins ESPECIALLY if you ride on salted roads. Never ever get caught out again!!

Best of luck with rest, might be easier to get whole assembly?

Good luck and happy trails (eventually), grunts

What makes you think the exhaust can't be removed without removing the whole engine? Assuming your header bolts aren't completely corroded like mine, you should be able to get an Allen key in them from the side and front, or a hex bit on a wobble extension from the front.

Alternatively, you could remove the rear wheel and work on the caliper in any position you like.

Speaking of corroded pins, I'm planning on getting some stainless or titanium replacements as the (glavanised/chromed?) original ones keep rusting.

You could also remove the top shock bolt and block under the rear tire

Thanks for the tips guys. I will admit to being somewhat frustrated at the time of writing this post!

In the end, I've pulled the wheel off, doused the lot in WD40 and used my smaller mole grips to agitate it side to side, up and down etc. and it has indeed come loose, eventually.

Can you buy better pins in the right size, or will I need to cut something else down?

I do still have the small issue of the banjo bolts, but I might just raise the torque arm so I can get a proper tool on that, or not bother at all and rebuild the brakes on the bike with the hose attached. I'm hoping it isn't actually Loctite'd, but it's clearly not OEM (the hose is SS) so I wouldn't be too shocked.

My only worry with getting different metal pins is the whole "galvanic potential" or whatever of differing metals. Might make it corrode worse?

I'm not sure about the rear pins to be honest. Pro-Bolt definitely do a titanium replacement from the front caliper pin and potentially have one for the rear pin, but I haven't validated the size yet (see the "Suzuki Own Make" pins in this PDF).

A very small amount of copper or waterproof grease would solve any galvanic corrosion concerns, but I'm more concerned about the pads being able to slide freely on the pin than it taking some muscle to remove them.

Releasing the torque arm bolts to raise the caliper is a good idea, or if you've got a vice that you can bring over to the bike then you could clamp it in that too.

If you get one of those, it's worth comparing them to the rear pins - I'm wondering if they might be the same. Especially since that PDF only lists two pins for Suzuki and the TIPINBP015 is the one that looks right. I might get the measurements and send them a message.

WHY?
£5 https://www.ebay.co.uk/usr/haylingmotorcyclespares2013?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2754

Just make sure you agitate/rotate the pins with thin nosed pliers regularly and they will never, ever seize again.

Read "Zen and the art of motorcycle maintenance" by Robert M Pirsig and you will understand that regular maintenance is better, cheaper, more sensible than just throwing money at something and hoping it will disappear.

THINK before you reach for your wallet...

Kookas, just a tip for future reference.
There's this thing mechanics call 'The heat spanner'. It's not actually a spanner at all, but the application of heat to a nut or bolt to help loosen.
A small Mapp gas torch, or a heat-gun to apply heat will often release an over-tight nut or bolt.
(Obviously you have to be careful not to burn anything like plastic or rubber that's in the vicinity).

Quote from: Joolstacho on May 07, 2019, 07:05:48 PM
Kookas, just a tip for future reference.
There's this thing mechanics call 'The heat spanner'. It's not actually a spanner at all, but the application of heat to a nut or bolt to help loosen.
A small Mapp gas torch, or a heat-gun to apply heat will often release an over-tight nut or bolt.
(Obviously you have to be careful not to burn anything like plastic or rubber that's in the vicinity).

Yeah I don't have that part of my tool-kit yet, but how would you avoid the heat from the caliper damaging the seals? It seems like a pretty delicate area.

Yes that's why I added that last line proviso.
You don't always need a lot of heat. Sometimes a heatgun can help. I have a gas torch with a very small jet, so it can be aimed at a small area.