I hate to ask in here as I have already asked on my build thread. But can anyone tell me how to get rid of the sphagetti around the carbs on an 04' My 89 had none of the afflictions my current carbs seem to have. I have something with both electrical connections and vac lines right beside it and about 10 tons of useless rubber connecting in and around the carbs. Im sure I need to find somewhere to connect the bottom of the carbs to a vac source but what of that nightmare, do I need to have and what needs to be blocked. Please help me out on this. The Pair is already gone, but as can be seen on my post in the project section, theres a ton of crap left. Sorry, if I have offended anyone clean air lovers out there, but its 20 years old. None of the emissions crap works at this point, and I just want it out of there so I can get the bike started.

Cheers,
Mike

Since I am currently working on the carbs on my '04, I'll post a few pics of what is blocked and what vac line I'm using for the petcock...probably easier than trying to describe or list the changes.  There is also no PAIR system on my bike and I'm pretty certain I've performed the "spaghetti removal" correctly, as I have done it on all my bikes in the past.  Sorry I can't post pics tonight, I just got cleaned up after playing carburetor games for most of the evening. Lol.

Well, my day got away from me and I was not able to get any pictures. However, having just had the carbs in my hand a day ago, I should be able to adequately describe what mine look like. 

Looking at the carbs from the engine side, as opposed to the air box side (when they're off the bike and you're holding them in your hands) there are four fittings that needs to be dealt with.  The two on the top (one on each carb) that come out of the molded white plastic pieces can simply be blocked off. If your carbs are the same as mine, there's also what appears to be a blank stalk attached to the same piece on each carb. 

Further down on the carbs facing the engine, there is one additional brass fitting on each carb. On my bikes, the fitting on the left carb (as you would be sitting on the bike) is blocked off, and the fitting on the right side carb (as you would be sitting on the bike) runs to the petcock to operate the vacuum.  If my memory serves, I think you will find that the fitting on the carburetor is a different diameter than the fitting on the back of the petcock (so you can't run a piece of tubing straight from the brass fitting to the petcock), so I use one of the leftover "T" fittings from the original spaghetti and simply block off half the T, because it's a step down fitting, and allows you to use different size tubing on each end. 

You should be able to get it all done with four vacuum caps and simply reusing the original tubing as long as it is in good shape. 

I will do my best to post some pictures, but I am almost certain that this information is correct.

Hope it helps.

B. 

Oh man, I just looked at the images from your other thread. Lol. I forgot how much extra crap is there.

The black canister is gone, the electronic "doodad" is gone and really the only thing remains is the single line going from the right carb to the petcock.  It's funny, I don't even remember what that electronic thing is. I researched everything the first time I took the system off and now I just duplicate it each time. After looking at your pictures I got worried though, so I went and looked at my other bike just to confirm that they are the same. Without taking off the tank it looks like I've done the same thing on both bikes.   I suppose I really should remember what I am taking off my bikes.

Damn... I hope it's not the turbocharger.  Lol.

Best of luck. 

B. 

Bruce,
Thank you very much! Im pretty sure I understand most of that. Im sure after looking at it all for a min or two, Ill get it all. Again, thanks.

Mike

Yes, the only vacuum line the carbs need is the line to the petcock (unless you switch to a manual petcock and then you don't even need that).

Everything else should be capped off. I think technically, the white caps don't need to be capped off because those only open up during certain conditions for emissions and if you have unplugged the TPMS sensor from the carbs they will never open up, but best to cap it all off to be safe.