Hi I'm wondering if anyone can tell me how I know when the clutch plates need to be replaced I just noticed that it seems like I need to let the clutch out a bit further than normal before it grabs on some gear changes not all. I've put 115k k's on the bike so wondering if it would be getting to the point that I would need to replace the clutch plates? Thanks

they never seem to wear out but 115K is getting on there. Just do a good three point adjustment and if your clutch slips on hard acceleration, then it might be due for a change. Id guess they are probabaly still OK.

I would do it in this order:
Adjust free play with 3 point clutch adjustment
If that doesn't work, check your clutch springs against the length spec
If that doesn't work, check your clutch plate wear.

I found my clutch springs were out of spec at 55,000 miles but the plates were still well within spec.

Agree with the above. I have 96K miles on my 2002 and the clutch is still good, but that may vary upon abuse.

I'm pretty light with the clutch so I hope it will still be good for a while. To check the spring you still have to take the clutch plates out right?

Will do the adjustment first

Quote from: Jimbob on February 12, 2024, 12:26:11 AMI'm pretty light with the clutch so I hope it will still be good for a while. To check the spring you still have to take the clutch plates out right?

Will do the adjustment first

No, the springs come out before the clutch plates. But you have to replace the side cover gasket either way so if you are comfortable taking the clutch plates out, it would be worth measuring them at the same time as the springs so that you have the data.

I finally had to replace my clutch. Logic said I could have done the friction plates and just scuffed up the existing steel plates and kept those. Instead I replaced everything. Get a new gasket too. Here's my story, I'm sticking to it (and my new clutch plates stick together when the bike is parked for a month so I have to zip tie my lever pulled to prevent that, but anyway):

https://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php/topic,74187.0.html

Quote from: Rallyfan on February 14, 2024, 12:51:04 AMI finally had to replace my clutch. Logic said I could have done the friction plates and just scuffed up the existing steel plates and kept those. Instead I replaced everything. Get a new gasket too. Here's my story, I'm sticking to it (and my new clutch plates stick together when the bike is parked for a month so I have to zip tie my lever pulled to prevent that, but anyway):

https://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php/topic,74187.0.html

For stuff like this where you need to get a new gasket, I'm a fan of just replacing everything with new. It will help avoid issues.

Quote from: Roofaloof on February 15, 2024, 09:22:10 AMFor stuff like this where you need to get a new gasket, I'm a fan of just replacing everything with new. It will help avoid issues.

Except a gasket is only like $15.  I don't see the point in replacing things that don't need to be replaced. All new clutch plates are pretty expensive, especially if you go OEM (which you should! Especially for the steels). The clutch plates often never need to be replaced for the life of the bike. And in general the OEM stuff is better than aftermarket for longevity/clutch performance so I would want to hold onto the OEM stuff as long as possible. Or do what I do, and buy a low mileage spare OEM clutch off eBay. Lots of GS500 parts with under 10,000 miles that are much cheaper than new.

Unless you commute daily on the bike so that you can't afford any down time to wait for parts, it makes sense to remove the cover, measure everything and only replace what is out of spec.

Ok thanks think I'll get the gasket order for when I have some down time to check them out. Also as a side note I got the rear brake pads replaced at a shop recently when they put new tires on, ever since then I have to used 2-3x more pressure on the rear lever than ever before. Also bear in mind over done close to 100k's on the bike so I've had pads replaced before but this is this first time this has happened. Gunna go have a look at the pads and check for leaks. Any other thoughts?

Thanks

When the old pads were at the limit of use you have to push the pistons in quite far to get the new pads in , this can push dirt past the dust seal and through to the main seal. This cam make the brake drag and also make the brake start to leak at the caliper. Check closely for the leaks around the caliper and also the level of fluid. Try to give it a bleed first but if not try to rebuild the caliper before buying anything.

Could also be really shitty pads?

My front caliper (21 years old and 55k km) had junk on the piston but was super clean inside and I rebuilt it with the same seals (was very careful taking them out), pistons cleaned up perfectly. I could have put new seals in for 30 bucks but it was so easy I figured I'll do it when I need to.

Ok thanks I'll keep an eye on fluid level can't see leaks at all. I think the feel a bit better today after I cleaned the disk yesterday

How many miles have you put on the new pads? New pads are always soft feeling the first few miles until the pads bed into the rotor. I bet after 100 miles or so they will feel much better.

Yeah I've out about 300km on them now and they do feel a lot better. Thanks