Here it goes...ok, i need help

[numnutz]

Hey there riders,

I bought my first motorcycle yesterday. A 2004 GS500F. It doesn't run but was told by a friend (who I bought it from) that all it need is a carb cleaning and new battery.

So I started the teardown today. This is my first experience with motorcycle motors, pretty much motors in general so I'm hoping for some help. Here we go..

Getting her off the trailer...


Okay here come the questions...

Question: The mechanism in the middle right of the photo is what allows you to take off the seat. I can't figure out how to disconnect it so that I can take that side panel off. I can someone help me out here?...


Got the tank and other side panel off just fine...


Question: These are the top of the carbs right? My goal is to "clean the carbs" so that my bike will start...


Question: This picture is taken underneath the carbs. Like I said I want to make sure the bike will start so... Above that wire (right where it gets fat) there is a opening and it kinda looks like it opens to the internals of the carb. Around it looks like there has been some overspray of some kind and it has collected dirt. Is that an opening where I can spray carb cleaner and then possibly not have to remove the carbs themselves?


Question: This picture is again taken from the top of the carbs. I think these are caps to the carbs?. When I tried to take the screws off they wouldn't budge. As you can see I stripped them a little bit. I sprayed them with WD-40 as well. Any suggestions?


Another picture of the screws that won't move...


Please help me out guys! I'm out of my element here.

[The Buddha]

Yea those bolts are made out of cheese and tightened at the factory by their resident gorilla (or is that godzilla) to 10,265,387 ft/lbs of torque and with red loctite.
Break out the drill boy and start drilling. Why you think buddha charges 5 bucks for each of these boogerated screws.
Cool.
Buddha.

[romulux]

You need to completely remove the carbs from the bike before you try to disassemble them or you'll have parts flying all over the place.

No, you can't just spray up from the bottom into those holes.  That hole doesn't lead anywhere I don't think...

Gotta get the carbs off the bike.  Remove the airbox, remove the carbs, disassemble the carbs, clean them with spray or bucket carb cleaner.

As for the stuck philips, my go-to tool whenever a philips won't budge is an impact hammer.  They're about ~$20 or ~$30.  It's a mechanically actuated driver that you hit with a hammer made of heavy metal.

[numnutz]

Yea those bolts are made out of cheese and tightened at the factory by their resident gorilla (or is that godzilla) to 10,265,387 ft/lbs of torque and with red loctite.
Break out the drill boy and start drilling. Why you think buddha charges 5 bucks for each of these boogerated screws.
Cool.
Buddha.

You the man

Drill ?!? That scares me a little. This is my first rodeo so could you be a little more detailed in how to go about drilling them out?

[smaeda]

To take off the side fairing, look at where the cable is attached to the bike right above the rear wheel. See the ball looking stopper? Just lift it up from the groove.

[DoD#i]

Also, those are not phillips, really - part of why they strip so easily when attacked with a phillips driver. They are JIS (Japanese Industrial Standard) - if you get an impact screwdriver and JIS bits, you might yet be able to get them out. Replace them with real screws.

http://www.rjrcooltools.com/vessel.cfm

The details on the difference:

http://www.rjrcooltools.com/jis.cfm

[numnutz]

You need to completely remove the carbs from the bike before you try to disassemble them or you'll have parts flying all over the place.

No, you can't just spray up from the bottom into those holes.  That hole doesn't lead anywhere I don't think...

Gotta get the carbs off the bike.  Remove the airbox, remove the carbs, disassemble the carbs, clean them with spray or bucket carb cleaner.

As for the stuck philips, my go-to tool whenever a philips won't budge is an impact hammer.  They're about ~$20 or ~$30.  It's a mechanically actuated driver that you hit with a hammer made of heavy metal.

Impact driver? Like one of these - http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00915232000P?vName=Tools&cName=HandTools&sName=Screwdrivers&psid=FROOGLE01&sid=IDx20070921x00003a

How does it work? It seems like this could risk cracking the carb itself.

[numnutz]

Also, those are not phillips, really - part of why they strip so easily when attacked with a phillips driver. They are JIS (Japanese Industrial Standard) - if you get an impact screwdriver and JIS bits, you might yet be able to get them out. Replace them with real screws.

http://www.rjrcooltools.com/vessel.cfm

The details on the difference:

http://www.rjrcooltools.com/jis.cfm

Never heard of this so thank you. Are these sold at sears or home depot?

[Paulcet]

Impact driver? Like one of these - http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00915232000P?vName=Tools&cName=HandTools&sName=Screwdrivers&psid=FROOGLE01&sid=IDx20070921x00003a

How does it work? It seems like this could risk cracking the carb itself.

Yeah, that's it.  Yes, you could risk breaking something.  You have to make sure there is something solid behind it before you go hitting it.  If you have a drill, just use a bit about 1/4" in diameter, drill the heads off the screws.  Or, if you have left-handed drill bits, sometimes they will just grab the screw and turn it right out.  Or, use a dremel to cut the screw head off, or cut a slot in the head then use a flat blade screwdriver.  Or, use a pair of vice grips to squeeze the bejeezus out of the screw head and turn.

Lots of options.  The only one everyone here will agree on is for you to replace the cheese-screws with philips-head or socket-head cap screws.

[numnutz]

Impact driver? Like one of these - http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00915232000P?vName=Tools&cName=HandTools&sName=Screwdrivers&psid=FROOGLE01&sid=IDx20070921x00003a

How does it work? It seems like this could risk cracking the carb itself.

Yeah, that's it.  Yes, you could risk breaking something.  You have to make sure there is something solid behind it before you go hitting it.  If you have a drill, just use a bit about 1/4" in diameter, drill the heads off the screws.  Or, if you have left-handed drill bits, sometimes they will just grab the screw and turn it right out.  Or, use a dremel to cut the screw head off, or cut a slot in the head then use a flat blade screwdriver.  Or, use a pair of vice grips to squeeze the bejeezus out of the screw head and turn.

Lots of options.  The only one everyone here will agree on is for you to replace the cheese-screws with philips-head or socket-head cap screws.

Perfect. Thank you.

Should I take the airbox off before the carbs?

[sledge]

This is all going to end in tears 

[numnutz]

This is all going to end in tears 

I'm not mad because I have been on forums before but on every thread I have posted you have been a jerk. I'm only 18 and coming to forum members for their help and knowledge. I saved all my money for this bike and working with what I have so I'm kind of tired of your smart comments. If you don't have anything nice to say please just refrain from posting in my threads anymore.

Thanks.

[xanthras]

Dude before you go impact drivering or drilling try vice grips. I ran into trouble with mine and the vice grips worked like a charm. Also, Lookup basic carb theory on the net, it should help a lot. There is also some free manuals floating around the forum.  Take your time, go slow, take pictures so you know how to put it back together.

[tt_four]

I'm not mad because I have been on forums before but on every thread I have posted you have been a jerk.

Ahhh haha in your face.

Hey man you're on the right track. The carbs aren't complicated, but they're somewhat intimidating until you get through it the first time. Just pull off the airbox, then remove the carbs from the motor, then start pulling them apart when you have a nice clean space to work at. Have a couple different sized screwdrivers, some ziplock baggies and a sharpie to mark things. Only pull one carb apart at a time so you don't worry about mixing parts between the two(plus once you get through one the second will be a piece of cake). The impact driver helps, but if you have vice grips I'd just try that first. My second option would be to take a backsaw or small cutting wheel and cut a slot straight across for a flathead screwdriver. Any options of drilling it sound like a last resort to me.

Once you pull it apart, get some rubber gloves, a can of carb cleaner, and yank a bristle out of a wire brush and go at every hole in the carb and jets to get it as clean as you can. I've had to pull my carbs apart a couple times this spring to get my bike working right, but I promise once you get through it once(will take a couple hours) it will only take you a half hour to do both.

Good luck with it, and make sure to ask questions if you're not sure. 95% of this bikes problems are cured by messing with the carbs, so we're pretty familiar with them. We'll all do our best to keep sledge under control.

[tt_four]

Ooh, and the bike looks fantastic by the way. Looks like it's right off the showroom floor, with the exception of the gunk on the carbs of course.

[numnutz]

Ahhh haha in your face.

Hey man you're on the right track. The carbs aren't complicated, but they're somewhat intimidating until you get through it the first time. Just pull off the airbox, then remove the carbs from the motor, then start pulling them apart when you have a nice clean space to work at. Have a couple different sized screwdrivers, some ziplock baggies and a sharpie to mark things. Only pull one carb apart at a time so you don't worry about mixing parts between the two(plus once you get through one the second will be a piece of cake). The impact driver helps, but if you have vice grips I'd just try that first. My second option would be to take a backsaw or small cutting wheel and cut a slot straight across for a flathead screwdriver. Any options of drilling it sound like a last resort to me.

Once you pull it apart, get some rubber gloves, a can of carb cleaner, and yank a bristle out of a wire brush and go at every hole in the carb and jets to get it as clean as you can. I've had to pull my carbs apart a couple times this spring to get my bike working right, but I promise once you get through it once(will take a couple hours) it will only take you a half hour to do both.

Good luck with it, and make sure to ask questions if you're not sure. 95% of this bikes problems are cured by messing with the carbs, so we're pretty familiar with them. We'll all do our best to keep sledge under control.

Sweet. Great post. Thanks!

Ooh, and the bike looks fantastic by the way. Looks like it's right off the showroom floor, with the exception of the gunk on the carbs of course.

Quick detailer by meguiars works wonders It's just a spray liquid that you wipe off with a towel. Check it out. Also partly the camera. Nikon D90. Costs more than the bike.

[sledge]

You are way out of your depth Num` and hitting this thing from the wrong angle, there is no sugar coating the fact. You need to step back and start applying some logic to all this. I will give you a tip take it on board or not its your choice.....Before you start pulling things apart risking damage and generaly wasting your time and money put a new battery in it and see if it turns over and sparks. If it does....THEN start thinking about the carbs.

Over to you 

[numnutz]

You are way out of your depth Num` and hitting this thing from the wrong angle, there is no sugar coating the fact. You need to step back and start applying some logic to all this. I will give you a tip take it on board or not its your choice.....Before you start pulling things apart risking damage and generaly wasting your time and money put a new battery in it and see if it turns over and sparks. If it does....THEN start thinking about the carbs.

Over to you 

Okay now that's a positive comment that I can use and work off of. Thank you.

I have charged the current battery to full. Hooked up the battery and the bike does turn over. The battery however can not hold a charge and after a few times getting it to start the battery is dead again. I am going to purchase a new battery tomorrow.

When I purchased the bike the peacock valve was open and he said that it had been open for a few months at least. This without a doubt means that the carbs are going to be screwed up regardless of anything else that is.

[twelvepoint]

Yes, if you have a Dremel tool with a cutoff wheel you can turn the Philips screws into slotted and get a lot more torque on them. Any screws like this, throw away and replace with Allen screws. As a general rule of thumb, be careful with any screw going into aluminum and don't overtighten. Aluminum is sticky and strips easily.

As some folks have said, don't just assume you need to take the carbs apart in order for the bike to start. You may be missing on checking a few things. Make sure fuel is getting into the bowls of the carbs. The petcock (not "peacock", haha) has a vacuum component that relies on a fitting from one of the carbs, and if that's disconnected, you get no fuel.

Other thing is make sure you're getting a spark. Definitely pull out the plugs and check the condition.

The carbs fit into hard rubber boots mounted to the engine. Give the boots an examination to make sure they're not messed up. That could affect your performance.

That bike looks like it's in very nice shape. Before March, my bike hadn't started in 3 years and although it ran rough, it still started. Take your time, try and not pull stuff apart unnecessarily, and keep posting with your progress.

[numnutz]

Yes, if you have a Dremel tool with a cutoff wheel you can turn the Philips screws into slotted and get a lot more torque on them. Any screws like this, throw away and replace with Allen screws. As a general rule of thumb, be careful with any screw going into aluminum and don't overtighten. Aluminum is sticky and strips easily.

As some folks have said, don't just assume you need to take the carbs apart in order for the bike to start. You may be missing on checking a few things. Make sure fuel is getting into the bowls of the carbs. The petcock (not "peacock", haha) has a vacuum component that relies on a fitting from one of the carbs, and if that's disconnected, you get no fuel.

Other thing is make sure you're getting a spark. Definitely pull out the plugs and check the condition.

The carbs fit into hard rubber boots mounted to the engine. Give the boots an examination to make sure they're not messed up. That could affect your performance.

That bike looks like it's in very nice shape. Before March, my bike hadn't started in 3 years and although it ran rough, it still started. Take your time, try and not pull stuff apart unnecessarily, and keep posting with your progress

I doubt your bike was left outside and uncovered with the petcock left open for months.

Everything looked good underneath the tank. Is there a picture of the vacuum component? Or a diagram?