leo, worst case senario. you will have to drill it out, and then retap it with a larger threaded bolt. thisng that will help it get out


EZ out, (reversed drill bit) you just keep drilling and it will grab and pull it out. but you have to be very carefull to make sure you drill the bolt out, and not drill another hole in it.

Quote from: rangerbrown on June 24, 2006, 06:21:29 PM
for every one,   soak it in plenty of wd-40 or other penatrating oil. overnight and all day this will help them come out with out breaking.   i would like to sugest if you pull them out, throw them away, and replae with Stainless steel. wont rust and will not get stuck.  just FYI

Make sure you use a high quality stainless steel bolt (304 grade).

Cheaper ones are prone to heat cycling fatigue and may break.

good call, forgot the grade

I sent an email to the bloke on ebay with the Jardine exhaust system and he said only from 04-06 for this exhaust although the ad said 03-06 what difference is there in the exhaust system for the later models I thought they were all the same i know the fared ones have  an oil cooler do they have a bigger oil pan as well and do we think that it will bolt onto the unfaired versions?

no it should work, i dont know why they dont say 89-2006 because it will fit

Quote from: galahs on June 24, 2006, 07:19:19 PM

Quote from: rangerbrown on June 24, 2006, 06:21:29 PM
for every one,   soak it in plenty of wd-40 or other penatrating oil. overnight and all day this will help them come out with out breaking.   i would like to sugest if you pull them out, throw them away, and replae with Stainless steel. wont rust and will not get stuck.  just FYI

Make sure you use a high quality stainless steel bolt (304 grade).

Cheaper ones are prone to heat cycling fatigue and may break.

Stainless screws are much softer than a grade 8 capscrew.

then why are SS the standard replacement on exhaust

Because they are more easily available.

any pictures or sounds yet as I hoping to get one of these myself

Nope not yet. It will be a while. My bolt extracter broke off inside the header bolt.  My drill bits don't want to drill into it. So I have to get a better drill bit and hopefully that will drill into the extractor that's inside the bolt.

Quote from: rangerbrown on June 25, 2006, 08:31:52 PM
then why are SS the standard replacement on exhaust

Because they don't rust.  But they aren't as strong. 

How did the install go?

Just got mine in the mail last night and it looks amazing and by the looks will sound it too, cant wait for it to be on, hopefully install this weekend and dyno through the week riding by the following weekend good thing is I just found a tuner who just dynoed about 5 GS's in the past 2 months so he should know what he is doing

Quote from: leo on June 19, 2006, 10:10:02 PM

Quote from: nick_villan on June 19, 2006, 10:05:35 PM
its a stainles stell can and titenium pipes i called the company

Really? Damn shows how much I know. I even held the pipes in my hand 

Have to admit it looks like stainless to me but one way or the other I'm happy

What happened to the install pics?

Quote from: leo on June 26, 2006, 05:53:37 PM
Nope not yet. It will be a while. My bolt extracter broke off inside the header bolt.  My drill bits don't want to drill into it. So I have to get a better drill bit and hopefully that will drill into the extractor that's inside the bolt.

I know this is a little old, but figured I'd throw in my 0.02 about header bolts.  First, the mild steel bolts get really hard and brittle from heat cycling.  This makes them prone to snapping (I had a Ford Probe where a couple header studs actually snapped off from only the engine vibration they were so hard) and really really difficult to drill.  I alway replace my bolts (any bolt really, not just header bolts) with 304 stainless bolts.  They are plenty strong, and aren't used from the factory only because they are expensive, but they won't seeze or rust or give you any of the other problems mild steel bolts will give you.  The one problem you may have with stainless header bolts is they may be more prone to backing out, so you have to stay on top of them and maybe safety wire them. 

Next, to drill out a snapped header bolt, you will need a good hard drill bit, plenty of oil, and drill very slowly because that bolt is soooo freaking hard by this point.  It will take a while to drill into it, but if you don't take your time, you'll just keep dulling bits.

Quote from: LimaXray on July 07, 2006, 08:53:48 AM

Quote from: leo on June 26, 2006, 05:53:37 PM
Nope not yet. It will be a while. My bolt extracter broke off inside the header bolt.  My drill bits don't want to drill into it. So I have to get a better drill bit and hopefully that will drill into the extractor that's inside the bolt.

I know this is a little old, but figured I'd throw in my 0.02 about header bolts.  First, the mild steel bolts get really hard and brittle from heat cycling.  This makes them prone to snapping (I had a Ford Probe where a couple header studs actually snapped off from only the engine vibration they were so hard) and really really difficult to drill.  I alway replace my bolts (any bolt really, not just header bolts) with 304 stainless bolts.  They are plenty strong, and aren't used from the factory only because they are expensive, but they won't seeze or rust or give you any of the other problems mild steel bolts will give you.  The one problem you may have with stainless header bolts is they may be more prone to backing out, so you have to stay on top of them and maybe safety wire them. 

Next, to drill out a snapped header bolt, you will need a good hard drill bit, plenty of oil, and drill very slowly because that bolt is soooo freaking hard by this point.  It will take a while to drill into it, but if you don't take your time, you'll just keep dulling bits.

I'm still stuck with this. I'm tired of working on it. I'm going to have somebody weld on a stud and just use a nut to hold on the exhaust. Ghetto? Ask me if I care right now.

hell as long as it works, who cares