Seattle.
It would be more convenient if you first moved to BC. Maybe Vancouver.

I think adidasguy gives me too much credit. I can't replace a bent valve, I just put on a whole new head (yay for cheap GS500 parts).

Also, I only know what I know because I made a similar mistake and had to replace everything. If I had used the motion pro tool I would have saved myself all the trouble and learning experience.

In the end, even with all the tools and new top end I bought, it was still cheaper than taking the bike to the shop for a valve adjustment. I hope you have a good experience with your shop.

I've done 22 valve checks with 11 shim changes over my 170k GS500 miles using a screwdriver in place of the special tool.  Bought the tool once and tried it and it didn't work well for me.  My son took it and reworked it by filing the nose some and used it after I gave him my old 97 GS.  Screwdrivers work best for me.  Old dog new trick thing I guess.   

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v443/jcp8832/ValveShimTools.jpg

I'd never consider pulling the cams for a valve shim change, only time I've pulled the cams and head was to replace a broken exhaust valve causes by a tight bucket on the 02 GS.  If you find out how your exhaust buckets went tight let us know, I find that one baffling off hand.  I've seen old Suzukis that had the cams pulled for engine repair end up with stripped cam shaft cap bolts after many years.

Your on the right track with the new wider exhaust valve shim gaps, keep them .08-.13 mm if you want long engine life with fewer shim changes.  I put this together for my reference on GS engine timing marks for installing cams and for checking valve clearances:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v443/jcp8832/gs500signalgenerators.jpg

If anyone had the cam timing jump when releasing the chain tightener they must not have had the chain pulled tight between the crank gear and the exhaust cam gear when setting it on the 1 mark and counting the 18 pins between the cam gears 2 & 3 marks.

Quote from: Bluesmudge on June 04, 2012, 02:39:47 PM
I think adidasguy gives me too much credit. I can't replace a bent valve, I just put on a whole new head (yay for cheap GS500 parts).

Also, I only know what I know because I made a similar mistake and had to replace everything. If I had used the motion pro tool I would have saved myself all the trouble and learning experience.

In the end, even with all the tools and new top end I bought, it was still cheaper than taking the bike to the shop for a valve adjustment. I hope you have a good experience with your shop.

Yes negative outcomes are the mother of innovation and progress.

I think I will be in the same boat as you, I am sure this repair will be costly; but I have learned from it.

Quote from: gsJack on June 04, 2012, 03:54:47 PM
I've done 22 valve checks with 11 shim changes over my 170k GS500 miles using a screwdriver in place of the special tool.  Bought the tool once and tried it and it didn't work well for me.  My son took it and reworked it by filing the nose some and used it after I gave him my old 97 GS.  Screwdrivers work best for me.  Old dog new trick thing I guess.   

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v443/jcp8832/ValveShimTools.jpg

I'd never consider pulling the cams for a valve shim change, only time I've pulled the cams and head was to replace a broken exhaust valve causes by a tight bucket on the 02 GS.  If you find out how your exhaust buckets went tight let us know, I find that one baffling off hand.  I've seen old Suzukis that had the cams pulled for engine repair end up with stripped cam shaft cap bolts after many years.

Your on the right track with the new wider exhaust valve shim gaps, keep them .08-.13 mm if you want long engine life with fewer shim changes.  I put this together for my reference on GS engine timing marks for installing cams and for checking valve clearances:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v443/jcp8832/gs500signalgenerators.jpg

If anyone had the cam timing jump when releasing the chain tightener they must not have had the chain pulled tight between the crank gear and the exhaust cam gear when setting it on the 1 mark and counting the 18 pins between the cam gears 2 & 3 marks.

I will be sure to keep you updated. I do have a question for you. Did you ever take pictures of a shim change using a screw driver, it would be great to see it in operation. I did try to work with a flat head screw driver; but I could not get the shim bucket to depress just kept slipping the screw driver off the bucket.

I was shocked as to how well the in take buckets moved and turned. No matter what I did I could not get the exhaust buckets to move. edit: I want to be clear, the exhaust buckets did move up and down under the cam lobe; there was no rotating them to get access to the gap so that you could pull the shim.

I will let you know.

Thanks 

Sorry, I didn't take any pictures of changing shims with screwdrivers and don't expect to have the cam cover off again on my current 02 GS.  Tried it early on with my 97 GS  13 years ago after a couple other members here said they used screwdrivers.  I ended up using a wedge tool from my old Honda 750 for my shim changes all these years, it's shown in my first link in my last post.  If your slipping out with the screwdriver sounds like you are trying to pry the bucket down, try using the screwdriver as a wedge pushing it straight in to hold bucket down while placing the 1/4" wide screwdriver blade vertically on the edge of the tappet outside the shim on the far side out of the way.

I had an exhaust valve run with minimum clearance for a long time on my 97 GS and it started requiring shim changes every valve check until it was down to a minimum 215 shim before 80k miles.  When I had the tighter of the 2 exhaust valves on my 02 GS start requiring shim changes at 31k and 39k miles I started setting exhaust valves to my new .003-.005" (.08-.13 mm) exhaust valve spec then went about 40k miles without a shim change.  I changed it once more to the .005" max at 86k miles last year and don't expect to change it again, didn't even check them this year with 94k on the clock now.  It's a contest now on which lives longer, me or my 02 GS.     Here's the whole record:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v443/jcp8832/GSvalvelogs.jpg

Well Jack, Thanks again. I will have to give it a try next time. Here to you out living your GS.

Best wishes and thank you

Well guys, motor is pooched. He fished out one of the dowels that did some serious damage to the crank. Manage to pull the dowel out and loosen up the motor only to have get really tight in places.

Can't do anymore investigation with out splitting the cases. Now the question is do I pull the motor and break it down myself and replace the crank shaft$$$$$$$$$$$$$ or buy a used motor?

thoughts, opinions?

Thanks

If I were to buy a used motor I would break it down anyways to check it out and replace wear items.

agreed, that is the plan.

Thanks

anyone know if an 07 motor will work on an o4 bike

Any motor will work. Just be sure the timing pickup is a single one for 04+ electrical systems. Change it out of necessary from your present motor.
Be sure the engine intake boots are the correct ones for your carbs, or use your existing ones (put in new o rings for a good seal)

The basic motor is the same. The intake boots changed when the carbs changed. The timing pickup was double, then went single in 2004. Added oil cooler in 2004. But the basic core of the engine is the same. You can swap those things around as much as you want.

Quote from: adidasguy on June 06, 2012, 05:21:39 PM
Any motor will work. Just be sure the timing pickup is a single one for 04+ electrical systems. Change it out of necessary from your present motor.
Be sure the engine intake boots are the correct ones for your carbs, or use your existing ones (put in new o rings for a good seal)

The basic motor is the same. The intake boots changed when the carbs changed. The timing pickup was double, then went single in 2004. Added oil cooler in 2004. But the basic core of the engine is the same. You can swap those things around as much as you want.

very much appreciated, now I have to find one.

Thanks

Update:

Good morning all!

So I have a new motor on the way, found one locally that came out a freshly wrecked 2009. Before it was pulled out of the bike I went to see it and it ran perfectly. I had them pull it out for me and ship to my home. I should get it tomorrow (forgot to mention it had 10K km's on it).

Feeling good about my purchase, I got home and pulled out the motor out of the 2004. I stripped it down and found the missing dowel, actually one was very deformed, crushed by the lower cam gear and the other one (yes there were two down there) was sitting up against the back side of the chain. It was intact and almost perfect (save for a few scratches).

Was able to turn the motor with out binding on the gears of the chain. It looked good down in the crank case, no missing teeth, no shavings in the oil etc.

Upon separating the cylinder head from the cylinder I noticed that the two gaskets looked really ratty, if also looked like they had been replaced before. The cylinders looked great there were good cross hatches visible, no scoring etc.

I have ordered all the necessary gaskets and o rings to put it back together. Before I tackle that project I was looking for some advice.

Before I snap it all together should I replace the piston rings?

Should I clean the carbon and build up out of the cylinder head?

Should I clean off the top of the pistons?

What is the best way to clean the surfaces before applying the upper and lower cylinder head gaskets?

Should I use a chemical sealer between the gaskets and the mating surfaces?

How much oil is required for a complete rebuild (all fluids are out of the engine)?

If I sell the engine, what is good price for a 2004 with 34K km's on it?

Thanks

PS. How does one post pictures on this forum?

New motor arrived last Friday. Took about an hour to install it and get it ready for oil. Checked the shims and they were perfect.

Motor came complete from the air box to the Pair system plus all the wiring for the entire bike. what a deal for $899.

Bolted it in, filled it with my favorite dino-oil and ran it for a while. Bike starts right up, turn the choke down after less than min and she idles nice and smooth with no hanging etc.

Last thing left to do is bock off the pair system (usa motor installed in a Canadian bike), then we are complete. Will not re- jet (have all the parts ready to for that task) until the winter- so no reason to lay the bike up any further this summer.

For all of you that commented and helped by responding and offer guidance and advice; thank you. For those of you that followed the topic - hope you got some sound advice.

Have a great day, ride safe