This bike came with long ignition keys. One key snapped off and the other is ready to break.
These things are about 19mm too long.
The long key is just inviting breakage.
Is there any good reason to have such a long key?

I searched the forum for shorter key, but didn't find what I'm looking for.

Right now it has an ILCO X241 key. (Fits, but Too long)




I looked at the ILCO catalog online and there is the ILCO X179 . It looks promising.

Both keys pictured here



I'm stopping by a hardware store with a good key blank selection, but they're  just going to want to copy the long key unless I make a specific request.

Has anyone tried the shorter key?

Any other suggestions?

I've used the shorter keys for years. No issues that I can pin on the shorter key, although my '06 ignition has started to seem "sticky" and sometimes have issues getting it locked/unlocked. I'm going to try going back to an OEM long key blank to see if the longer key somehow offers more engagement.

I'd suggest chucking some graphite dry lubricant down there if it's becoming sticky. Also, depending on the age it's possible the wafers in there are simply worn, meaning inserting the key isn't pulling the wafers in properly, resulting in the barrel being unable to turn properly.

As far as longer vs. shorter keys go, I use a GSX1100 ignition barrel on my Katana which uses the same sort of long key as my 450 (which looks a similar length to your photo), but the fuel tank cap and seat lock are both proper Katana items which use the shorter Katana key. Swapping wafers around lets me use the same shorter Katana key in the GSX1100 ignition barrel with no problems at all. As long as the shank isn't too short to let the key fully insert into the barrel you should in theory have no problems.

I also need key blanks for my 89. Thanks for reminder.

I have bad luck with graphite lube and any electrical anything, as I have shorted out switches with it. Dielectric grease is fancier than WD40 and probably stays there longer. Chain Lube would work too.

Quote from: johnny ro on September 22, 2020, 03:52:20 PM
I also need key blanks for my 89. Thanks for reminder.

I have bad luck with graphite lube and any electrical anything, as I have shorted out switches with it. Dielectric grease is fancier than WD40 and probably stays there longer. Chain Lube would work too.

Update, I just bought a set of three, on amazon, with Suzuki Emblem in the plastic head. $10 shipped, deliver two days from now. Cool.

Quote from: johnny ro on September 22, 2020, 04:02:00 PM

Quote from: johnny ro on September 22, 2020, 03:52:20 PM
I also need key blanks for my 89. Thanks for reminder.

I have bad luck with graphite lube and any electrical anything, as I have shorted out switches with it. Dielectric grease is fancier than WD40 and probably stays there longer. Chain Lube would work too.

Update, I just bought a set of three, on amazon, with Suzuki Emblem in the plastic head. $10 shipped, deliver two days from now. Cool.

Those are cool with the Emblem.

I just learned that the local locksmith passed away.
The local hardware didn't have them, but will cut the blanks if I supply them.

I've ordered two of the ILCO X179 aka SUZ12 blanks from eBay for $6.42 with shipping and tax.

I ended up ordering key blanks from eBay and having the hardware store cut one blank.

It looks good and works well. The only disadvantage that I can see is the small key might be more difficult to turn if wearing heavy gloves.




Some reference info.

The short key: Ilco X179; Ilco EZ SUZ12; JMA SUZU-11D; Silca SZ10R; Taylor X179 Suzuki 2M;

The long key: Ilco: X241, Ilco EZ: SUZ18, Jet: SUZ18, JMA: SUZU-12D, Curtis: SU-18, SIlca SZ14RAP-S




Thanks for the replies