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Legend of Seamax

Started by cbrfxr67, June 13, 2019, 09:27:42 AM

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cbrfxr67

That sounds scary as fook Blue! 

Buddha, I thought about trying to figure it out but after pushing it 1.5 miles, throwing that ignition in the trash was tooooo satisfying :icon_lol:

Security bolts were, interesting.  I tend to forget to take pics until I'm already started,... So for anybody doing ignition swap for whatever reason, unless someone already changed the security bolts,..


Yes you have to take it off,... Not really a big deal.  Couple fork clamp bolts and the big center bolt and however your gauges mount,....


Flip it over and admire the security bolts.  Breathe in and think htf am I going to get those out.


Personally left hand drill bits always seem to work for me.  I picked up some irwin quick easy outs that are double ended that work pretty well but did not work for this.  Started with small lh bit and went bigger until it caught and took them out.


Figured some allens would work fine,...


Tightened them down,..


Torque everything down,..


Yay, and I actually have a steering lock that works now.  I used an EMGO #40-71030, new off ebay for $24.59


This was probably 2 weeks ago.  Been working great since. :icon_mrgreen:
"Its something you take apart in 2-3 days and takes 10 years to go back together."
-buddha

Bluesmudge

#61
Are you going to mess with the locks on the seat and tank to make them all match?
Is the EMGO key blank the same as the stock Suzuki key?

cbrfxr67

Heyyyy Blue,...
I'll leave it two keys.  I just don't care that much to mess with it,... Rather put my new brakes on
"Its something you take apart in 2-3 days and takes 10 years to go back together."
-buddha

iamhiding

how have i only just seen you've wound up with seamax's bike :icon_lol: it's possibly the only example of a faired gs that i actually quite like  :thumb:

so... gsxr1000 swap  :icon_twisted: :icon_eek: look forward to seeing how that goes. i put some thought into these silly swaps occasionally and from eyeballing i reckon an inline 3 fz/mt09 engine would be the way to go, quite small, lightweight and so unbelievably punchy. like that last mental cbr600 build showed, the engine needs to be offset so far for the chainrun, an i3 or big single would alleviate the engine offset by a fair margin i'd assume. ah i dunno but looking forward to seeing what happens with it.
current project list:
//cbr 600 f3 fighter
//gsxr 1100 mental oldskool supersport
//gs500 daily rat tracker cafe fighter that changes every couple of month... cafe fighter?

seamax

Once in a while when I catch up on this thread it makes me really happy that she was given to you. I'm happy she's on the road again and and cruising.
Keep us posted. I love reading the adventures, mishaps and future mods.   

cbrfxr67

Seamax!  The legend himself stops in!  :icon_mrgreen:


Not much of any updates.  I still haven't put my brakes on.  Been riding about 4 days a week and little bike on the other days.  This pic was after got home last night and checked oil just to see how it looked.
Had the rear brake light switch bind up a few weeks ago.  Was making the light stay on and I took it all apart, made a new little offset bracket and reinstalled.  Been ok since that,...
One of my fairing mounts broke a couple weeks back.  Heard this vibrating obnoxious sound start to get louder and louder.  At least it was obvious where it was coming from.  Welded it up, shot with some high solids black and good to go,.... :icon_mrgreen:
"Its something you take apart in 2-3 days and takes 10 years to go back together."
-buddha

cbrfxr67

#66
Fun, fun,... Went to leave this morning and >clunk<,...  Starter turned over a few times and then -click- nothing.  Hmmm awright.  It's been a little colder and last week seemed like my battery wasn't happy. 

Put it on the charger and took off on the wee bike.  Came home to 100%, hit the button and -click-.  Hmmm again.  More like, farrrg.  Jump the solenoid with a booster on it just in case and, nothing.  Seriously my starter crapped out?  I didn't have any time to mess with it.

Thinking about how the starter sounded it was kind of clunky sounding.  I dunno,..  I'll report back with more as I mess with it :dunno_black:

-------------------------------------------------------------------------
Went and jumped the solenoid with a screwdriver and it turned over.  Ah ha,...!  I guess my Lisle starter jumper is broke cause it didn't work.  Replaced the solenoid with one out of parts bin and all good :icon_mrgreen:





I had considered going to pick up this turd in San Marcos.

On marketplace, she wants 750.  Hmmm still thinking about it since mr72 won't pass me that scooter,.. :hithead:
"Its something you take apart in 2-3 days and takes 10 years to go back together."
-buddha

cbrfxr67

Been out riding,...not much to post for awhile.  Plus my job has a new firewall that blocks all the dang pictures.

Got a leak on clutch cover so I've been riding around bikini style for 2 weeks.



Battery started crapping out and being cheap, I started looking for free stuff at work.  We get jumpboxes back all the time.  Some with agm batteries in them and some with these lithium paks. 



After watching some guy on YT pump one of these paks full of juice and it only swelled up, instead of exploding, I gave it a try.  Going on three months now and seems ok.  Definitely a quarter the weight of a battery. 

I need to figure out a new front fender,...
"Its something you take apart in 2-3 days and takes 10 years to go back together."
-buddha

cbrfxr67

Random pic for the heck of it,...



Nothing much new.  Well two fairing mounts did break and I rewelded them. Oh and lowered the front a teeny bit.  Did oil change while I was at it.  Sewed up some wiring, chasing 'why when I pushed my high beam the horn went off'  :laugh:.  Ended up swapping the control and back to good again.

Been riding and smiling and splitting and enjoying  :icon_mrgreen:
"Its something you take apart in 2-3 days and takes 10 years to go back together."
-buddha

ShowBizWolf

Happy Holidays to you cbr!!!  :cheers:
Superbike bars, '04 GSXR headlight & cowl, DRZ signals, 1/2" fork brace, 'Busa fender, stainless exhaust & brake lines, belly pan, LED dash & brake bulbs, 140/80 rear hoop, F tail lens, SV650 shock, Bandit400 hugger, aluminum heel guards & pegs, fork preload adjusters, .75 SonicSprings, heated grips

cbrfxr67

Thanks Sho!

Wish you the very best and peace this Christmas season!

"Its something you take apart in 2-3 days and takes 10 years to go back together."
-buddha

cbrfxr67

Random pics for the heck of it,... :icon_mrgreen:



"Its something you take apart in 2-3 days and takes 10 years to go back together."
-buddha

Armandorf

#72
Quote from: cbrfxr67 on October 21, 2021, 10:56:20 AMHeyyyy Blue,...
I'll leave it two keys.  I just don't care that much to mess with it,... Rather put my new brakes on


sorry for the offtopic, whats your impression of the brakes?

i have the front ones, dual, with gsxr tokico black calipers(gsxr 600/750 k8 front end)  and a hayabusa front cylinder.

for me they are perfect, i really like the feedback they give, but never had anything of this level to compare.

My only worries could be the possible excessive wear on the disc but i dont brake (hard) very often, i cut gas way earlier before my stops.

i tested them mainly practicing emergency stops and the weak link is my tire now (metzeler m33)


@cbrfxr67, how is going that project?

im curious about how he made all the wiring harness fit in that thin tail. if you could post pics about it.
i had to do a wiring conversion from 89 to 2008 and i still cant figure out some routes.

cbrfxr67

I still haven't put the brakes on.  Was waiting for something to happen to necessitate taking it apart.  :icon_mrgreen:

The wiring doesn't seem too complex.  Most of the wiring is tucked under the seat.  I can take some pics sure thing,.. :thumb:
"Its something you take apart in 2-3 days and takes 10 years to go back together."
-buddha

MSerfozo

Quote from: cbrfxr67 on February 20, 2023, 01:13:57 PMThe wiring doesn't seem too complex.  Most of the wiring is tucked under the seat.  I can take some pics sure thing,.. :thumb:


I would also like to see pics of what you did with the wiring.  Thanks!  :bowdown:
Being shot out of a cannon will always be better than being squeezed out of a tube. That is why God made fast motorcycles, Bubba....
- Hunter S. Thompson

cbrfxr67

Nothing much but riding for awhile and then the FuN began. 

Starter locked up one day and I push started it.  Then same thing a couple days later.  Put it up on the lift and started looking, only to find,...




GOATS!


Dug out a better looking generator and cover from phlogistian's trove to reinstall.  Had to wait for gasket to come in.



Getting ready to put back together.


Cover from phlogistian has og suzuki on it.  Better than the ugly one I had previously.


Decided to fix the weepy valve cover gasket and checked valves while I was at it.  Valves a ok in spec.


Cleaned up an extra cover from upstairs and got that back together.



Was starting to sew everying up and fairing was hanging down a bit.  I'd noticed it a few days before and figured I would see soon enough what was going on.



Nasty crack through the mounting plate.  So, will repair this with some welding later and then hopefully reassemble and be back riding. 

 8)
"Its something you take apart in 2-3 days and takes 10 years to go back together."
-buddha

cbrfxr67



Here's something super interesting, well I thought it was/is good stuff.  Phlogistian listed a treasure trove of items and of course I'm a gs hoarder and wanted it all.

Phlogistian graciously worked with me and packed it all up on a pallet!  We worked together and got it down to Houston on a freight truck.
What a grand surprise digging through this trove of gs stuff!

Thanks for that Phlogistian and for sharing the story behind it all!  That in itself was legendary!
"Its something you take apart in 2-3 days and takes 10 years to go back together."
-buddha

Bluesmudge

#77
Thats a serious case of goats! I can't tell from the little pictures, was it caused by the epoxy delaminating, or the magnets coming off the rotor, or the starter clutch bolts sheering off and then bouncing around causing damage? Either way, I assume you are going to drop the sump and clean it out?

When I had the starter clutch bolts sheer off I switched to the 1989 version of the generator rotor because the magnets don't have all the epoxy on them that can flake off like the later style rotors. The 1989 version is built like all the old 80's GS bikes and nobody has goats issues with those.

cbrfxr67

Thanks blue for the info.  Got that cleaned up yes but, been having problems.

Rectifier over heated and started smoking.  Checked wiring and stator and things seem ok.  Changed rectifier and been watching it heat up to 160+ and I cut it off.  Ran a jumper from battery to rectifier to bypass ignition switch, nada.  Ran new grounds, nada.  Swapped stator for another one and same.  Changed battery, same.  Replaced wiring from stator to harness, same.  Starting to get frustrated now.  Looking at pulling out the whole harness and replacing it.
"Its something you take apart in 2-3 days and takes 10 years to go back together."
-buddha

Bluesmudge

#79
Have you spent any time on the GSresources forum? They mostly talk about the 70's/80's 4 cylinder GS bikes, but there are a lot of similarities between those an the GS500. They have a lot of discussion about improving the charging systems because those old GS bikes were known to cook Regulator/Rectifiers and stators for a variety of reasons. You should search there to learn about Single Point Ground, wiring a SH775 regulator directly to the battery, and also read their "stator papers." I'll do a really poor job here of summarizing the issues they talk about:

-An unnecessary loop of one stator leg up to the headlight off switch, which was removed after the government required moto headlights to always be on. Creates a lot of unnecessary resistance in the wiring and can be bypassed to removing 6 feet of wire from the equation. This isn't an issue on the GS500 afaik, just mentioning it so if you go searching on GSresources you don't spend time reading about that problem.

-Old connections get corrosion over time. Its recomended to go through the entire harness and undo each connection and clean it mechanically or at least with some spray contact cleaner. Then some members recomend putting a light coating of deoxit to protect from future corrosion.

-Bad grounds. They recommend something called a single point ground. I barely understand it so I won't try to explain it, but apparently it does a good job of telling the r/r exactly what the bike's electrical needs are so that it can provide the exact voltage the battery needs. By having all the grounds meet in one spot, you don't have voltage drops giving bad info to the regulator.

-Switching to a SH775 r/r. It needs to be a genuine one, there are lots of Chinese copies on ebay. If you search around you can usually still find nice used ones for under $50. This is apparently a leap forward in regulator technology compared to the shunt type on the GS500 and older GS bikes, which have to get rid of any unused power by turning it into heat. If it can't get rid of the heat fast enough, it will overheat. The SH775, when wired directly to the battery and coupled with a good single point ground, should last much longer than a shunt type r/r.


I also like their quick and dirty electrical problem diagnosis method:
"Quick Test Steps:

1.) key off................Normal 12.7 volts-12.9 volts

2.) key on (but not cranking with lights for 10 sec).....Normal 12.2-12.5 volts

3.) at idle (1500 rpm).....12.6volts - 13.2volts

4.) at 2500 rpm 13.5 -14.0 volts

5.) at 5000 rpm.....14.0 -15.0 volts

6.) key off.....slightly higher than measurements # 1 (12.8-13.0 v)

QUICK TEST Diagnosis Summary:

Basically Step #1 and #2 is making sure the battery is charged and in good health. The drop should be about 0.5 volts for normal headlamp and coil load (without cranking the starter). Anymore than 0.5V drop indicates the battery is weak even though the static voltage is OK (12.7-12.8V). If your battery is any lower it can have an effect on your charging voltages as the charging system only has so much capacity and will be drug down by a poor battery.

Step #3 is get a baseline starting voltage. This will vary some depending upon your idle and the particular R/R you have. It could be lower than the off voltage or as you idle up it will increase to 13.0 v

Step #4 by the time you get to 2500 RPM you should have close to the maximum output voltage even if you have bad connections. You are not pushing as much current and this shows that the stator is likely good.

Step #5 by the voltage at 5000 RPM being higher than at 2500 RPM you have a pretty good indication that your connections are good. If the voltage at 5000 drops from 2500 you have bad connections. If you already checked the grounds then it is likely in the positive legs between R/R(+) and Battery (+) check fuse box and the large bullet connector to the battery. The voltage climbs above 15.0 V it is likely the R/R not regulating and is bad bad.

Step #6 If after running for a few seconds in a charging state the voltage to the battery should have risen a bit. If it is lower than where you started then you did not charge at all, Again this will vary some what depending upon how long you let the bike run."

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