Quote from: DoD#i on May 19, 2010, 05:39:05 PM
Not that it was particularly unclear, but yes, that's correct. One float bowl on the bottom of each carb, thus one on each side to drain, and then check for fuel flow on prime.                                 

This is embarrassing but what should the petcock valve be on normally when the motorcycle is just sitting (not running)?

On. It's a vacuum petcock, so On shuts off when not running. So does reserve, but leaving it in reserve by habit will bite you. Prime bypasses the vacuum system - but you should not leave it in prime while parked as you can, by a series of unfortunate events, fill the cylinder with liquid gasoline and kill the engine via hydrolocking.

Okay, I've drained one float bowl. Looked like a Budweiser color. Turned the petcock to prime, then filled directly from the fuel line above the petcock valve. When I opened the screw again. Gas came out in more of a Bud light color but not as much came out as in the original drain. Is that ok?

Anyone?

Looks like you got some good advice here, personally I would not take apart the carbs unless I was sure that was the problem. Try to get the bike to start with out taking it apart. Seems like you have some old gas in there, I'd try to flush out the old crud as much as possible, ya want good clean fuel comming out of there.  Get a can of carb cleaner and clean everything on the outside of the carbs, and clean the inside of your airbox too.  Also, before you take apart the carbs, I think I would want to check the valve clearances first to see if they are within spec, that could be the reason it stopped working; and not it has also been sitting for a while with old gas and oil inside.  Keep trying to get the bike to fire up and maintain idle. Good luck and nice bike!

Quote from: Allen on May 19, 2010, 08:26:35 PM
Looks like you got some good advice here, personally I would not take apart the carbs unless I was sure that was the problem. Try to get the bike to start with out taking it apart. Seems like you have some old gas in there, I'd try to flush out the old crud as much as possible, ya want good clean fuel comming out of there.  Get a can of carb cleaner and clean everything on the outside of the carbs, and clean the inside of your airbox too.  Also, before you take apart the carbs, I think I would want to check the valve clearances first to see if they are within spec, that could be the reason it stopped working; and not it has also been sitting for a while with old gas and oil inside.  Keep trying to get the bike to fire up and maintain idle. Good luck and nice bike!

Thanks, that's kinda the feel I've been getting from everybody.

So I drained the float bowls here are some pictures of the difference in color...

Old gas out

New gas in


I also checked the spark plugs and they looked perfect...


This prompted my to call the old owner (he finally answered) and he told me the spark plugs and oil were changed about 1K ago. But still months old. When I go to check the oil level though this is what I find...


How could all the oil be gone or am I not doing something right?

Yeah, you should replace all fluids, keep flushing the gas til it comes clear and then some.  Clean everything in site, check all connections.  I would also unscrew both plugs and hit the starter to verify both plugs are firing.  Put it on the center stand and fill fresh oil and filter.  Make sure it is getting good clean gas, clean air, and a good spark. Clean it good on the outside first and try to get it to start up.  Are there any reasons the PO suggested why it stopped working in the first place? Or did it just sit in storage?

Quote from: Allen on May 19, 2010, 08:48:17 PM
Yeah, you should replace all fluids, keep flushing the gas til it comes clear and then some.  Clean everything in site, check all connections.  I would also unscrew both plugs and hit the starter to verify both plugs are firing.  Put it on the center stand and fill fresh oil and filter.  Make sure it is getting good clean gas, clean air, and a good spark. Clean it good on the outside first and try to get it to start up.  Are there any reasons the PO suggested why it stopped working in the first place? Or did it just sit in storage?

He said that the carbs are dirty. He said that when we started it the first time after awhile of it sitting he would have to spray carb cleaner directly into the airbox. That when it was running he had keep the engine above 2500 rpms to keep it from stalling.

I know now that the the battery is very dead, unchargable basically, so that is a problem. I charged it for 30 mins and hooked that battery up. It turned over a few times but the headlight would go very dim when I did so it seems like a crappy battery.

What if he thinks its the carbs, but doesn't really know?  I mean, I thought my bike ran poorly because of the carbs too, ended up being tight valve clearances, do you have any feeler gauges?  I'd keep charging the battery and try a few more times to get it to fire up, maybe some starter fluid.  If no luck I'd remove the valve cover and just check to see if the clearances are within spec.  You may need another battery, the one you have may be enought to turn on the lights and get it to turn over a little, but may not have enought cranking amps, but just keep charging it and trying for tonight.

check the water level on the battery, you may need to fill it with water then it will hold charge.

Where are you located?

If you're local, I'd be happy to come help sort things out.

I think hes about 2900 miles away or 2 days ride away.

Quote from: Allen on May 19, 2010, 09:56:12 PM
I think hes about 2900 miles away or 2 days ride away.

Hahaha yup. Wrong side of the country. How high should the water be? It's a little under half full now.

The battery has lead plates inside, they usually are about 1" below the top of the battery. They should be covered with battery fluid at all times, so the normal level is about 1/2" above them. If your battery is only about 1/2 full and its been like that for a while, it is dead, deceased, pushing up daisies. Its probably nailed to its perch.

Num?
Keep this simple and make it easy for yourself, lots of people in here want to help you out but you are in danger of getting information overload and losing track.

Priorities:

Buy a manual and read it cover to cover, then read it cover to cover again.
Buy a NEW battery and fit it
Top the engine oil up.
Check both plugs are sparking
Ensure you have clean fuel flowing into and through both carbs.
Check the choke is free, cable and mechanism.
When the above is done and everything checks out try and start the bike on full choke with the tap set to prime and a shot of easy-start.

Forget about valve clearances at this stage, it was running before it was laid up and clearances dont go out of tolerance while bikes are laid up.

Most important: FORGET what the previous owner has told you and dont bother him again, he doesnt know what he is talking about and now that he has got your cash and rid of the bike will tell you anything you want to hear.

When the bike is running reasonably well and starts on the button evertime THEN you concentrate on the other issues.

About the oil level reading... you won't get a good reading on the oil level unless the bike has been warmed up. Ride around for 15 minutes, let it sit for 2 minutes, and do it again.

Agreed, we want to get it started before you take anything apart. Its a nice bike and will give you many miles and years of service.

Priorities:

Working on it - Buy a manual and read it cover to cover, then read it cover to cover again.
Today - Buy a NEW battery and fit it
Hopefully can do today - Top the engine oil up.
After battery - Check both plugs are sparking
Check - Ensure you have clean fuel flowing into and through both carbs.
Check - Check the choke is free, cable and mechanism.

When the above is done and everything checks out try and start the bike on full choke with the tap set to prime and a shot of easy-start.

About the oil level though...

Even though the bike hasn't been run, shouldn't there be at least a little bit of oil on the dip stick? When I checked the level the stick was bone dry.

Side question: Where can I buy new allen head handle bar bolts that attach the bars to the triple tree?

Quote from: numnutz on May 20, 2010, 05:14:36 AM
About the oil level though...

Even though the bike hasn't been run, shouldn't there be at least a little bit of oil on the dip stick? When I checked the level the stick was bone dry.

Yes. If there's no oil on the dipstick, add oil before you try and start the engine. Careful not to overfill