Quote from: Frankiechops on March 05, 2022, 04:17:19 AM

To add insult to injury, saddle bags I ordered before all this business arrived in the mail today. They look great sitting on the sofa 🙄.

Saddlebags huh. Well if the missus is a slight little thing you can mount em on her to check if its a "yay" or "nay" if she'd gain weight.
Just do it on a warm night, so the garage or driveway or back yard is comfortable.

Cool.
Buddha.

Quote from: Frankiechops on March 05, 2022, 04:17:19 AM
The visibal cylinder wall looks nicely cross hatched with no scratches.

That's great news, your cylinders are good shape, so that should cut your down-time significantly. The only place you
need to use sealer is the valve-cover gasket, and you don't need much. Honda sells HondaBond, Yamaha sells Yamabond etc
they are all the same product. Threebond 1194 (grey gasket goo)

Quote from: The Buddha on March 05, 2022, 04:08:36 PM

Quote from: Frankiechops on March 05, 2022, 04:17:19 AM

To add insult to injury, saddle bags I ordered before all this business arrived in the mail today. They look great sitting on the sofa 🙄.

Saddlebags huh. Well if the missus is a slight little thing you can mount em on her to check if its a "yay" or "nay" if she'd gain weight.
Just do it on a warm night, so the garage or driveway or back yard is comfortable.

Cool.
Buddha.

A safer test run

Nice. Animeal cruelty something something. And he gets to stay in the doghouse.
Cool.
Buddha.

I'd suggest to not use a silicone sealer like threebond on the valve cover rubber seal, it will either get glued and destroyed when you remove it or it will fill the grooves on the head/cover and you will take hours to scrape it off next time you do your valves.

I'd suggest something like Hylomar (thin smear on both sides of the gasket, let the solvent flash off for 10 minutes and then assemble). The hylomar can be easily cleaned off and will not cause the seal to get damaged on disassembly.

Quote from: herennow on March 06, 2022, 01:51:31 PM
I'd suggest to not use a silicone sealer like threebond on the valve cover rubber seal, it will either get glued and destroyed when you remove it or it will fill the grooves on the head/cover and you will take hours to scrape it off next time you do your valves.

I'd suggest something like Hylomar (thin smear on both sides of the gasket, let the solvent flash off for 10 minutes and then assemble). The hylomar can be easily cleaned off and will not cause the seal to get damaged on disassembly.

I've used Hondabond and Threebond. The main reason the manufacturers re-brand this stuff for use in their dealerships is that it is so easy to remove/clean up. A little actetone or MEK, and it comes right off.

I've never used anything on the valve cover gasket. Its such a nice squishy o-ring type seal already, what would something like Hondabond be accomplishing? 54,000 miles and I've never had the valve cover gasket leak.

Bluesmudge, maybe if you had a valve cover gasket leak, you'd have had to use a sealant. Just saying!

FWIW I put a brand new valve cover gasket on to replace a leaking one and it leaked too. I used normal black RTV to seal it and it doesn't leak. Which is just to say, not everyone's perfect.

Quote from: mr72 on March 07, 2022, 12:31:43 PM
Bluesmudge, maybe if you had a valve cover gasket leak, you'd have had to use a sealant. Just saying!

FWIW I put a brand new valve cover gasket on to replace a leaking one and it leaked too. I used normal black RTV to seal it and it doesn't leak. Which is just to say, not everyone's perfect.

No. A valve cover gasket leak = new valve cover gasket.
The sealant I would use is more of an adhesive that glues it to the cover (instead of physics gluing part of it to the head and parts of it to the vavle cover). That way you can take it off and more importantly put it back on without it getting out and escaping and getting pinched. And yea these *****Bond or 3m gasket maker etc etc works well as does any branded or otherwise "rubber cement" or similar. Just make sure the valve cover gasket is clean from oil, and dry as a mofo before using it and use a new valve cover gasket - not one that's already soaked in oil - unless you clean it in acetone or something. Remember, dry and clean - both faces before mating.
Cool.
Buddha.

Hey guys

The new/used cylinder head should arrive tomorrow, along with gaskets, so thought I'd check in. I have cleaned the cylinder block. Just wondering if there was anything else I should do. I've got the Haynes manual so I'll be following that, but just in regards the the used head, should I drown it in oil for a while or something? 

Cheers

I recommend to scrub the built up carbon on piston tops and vacuum off. Then remove the rust on the barrel tops. That rust scares me.

Clean the new head dome chambers. Without disassemble.

Be gentle but firm

Do not use any spray cleaner on the block innards. Just dry clean on the pistons. Rustm may apply derust stuff with a small paintbrush.  Or remove with abrasive, but don't let any fall in.

Do not dip the heads in oil. I was told to wash aluminum vw heads long ago, scrub and let dry. Any water will dry out. Heat helps on that drying.

Thanks man, there's no rust, don't be scared. Just poor lighting. I'm a bit paranoid about scrubbing the piston heads without any debris getting stuck between the piston and cylinder. Chris says not to turn the engine while the head is off so the low cylinder would be a real bugger. Thoughts?

I think you are done with this part of the job, I wouldn't try cleaning any carbon off the piston tops etc.

For the old head, I would remove the valves, springs, retainers, buckets, and shims and put them in 4 labeled jars, 1  for each valve IN1, EX1, IN2, EX2
Once stripped you can can clean the head however you like. Replace the cam-caps as they are line-bored can only be used with the same head.

Are you going to use your current cams? Whatever cams you use, you should use your original cam sprockets, as they wear-match to the cam-chain over time.

I don't have the valve clamp/vice so I don't think I'll be doing any of that

The BaltimoreGS vids show you how to pop out the valve keepers (she calls them cotters) with a socket and a mallet. Works like a charm.

Thanks Chris, I saw that but was wondering how the hell I get them back in. I've worked it out. So, this 'reputable eBay wrecker' has turned out not to be so reputable. The head is off a 2003 model, not 2010, and who knows who many KMs. At least the valves aren't bent. I'm fighting with him at the moment. But...now I know how to remove the valves, would there be an issues with just swapping the bent valves with the straight valves and keep my existing head and springs? Could it possibly be that easy?

I think the 2003 head is the same as the 2004+ heads. If it has a tach-cable drive, it is a previous generation.

The early versions 2003-05 had noisy cam issues, so you want to use your original 2010 cams and the special spacers and wave washers.

If the ebay head is the right gen, it is probably better to just bolt and go. The worn valves match their seats; if you swap them you will need
to have them lapped to match the old seats in their new home. It's kind of a crap fix. The real deal is to buy new valves and take them to
an engine builder with a seat cutter where they use the correct beveled blade to cut the seat to match the angle of the sealing area of the valve (factory spec).

But time and money factored in I think the best option would be to use the 2003 head as is and put the 2010 head on the shelf.

Yeah, it's the previous gen with the tach cable attachment. The input is all sealed up so it's essentially the same as my 2010. I've pulled it all apart and cleaned it up. I'll put it back together with the 2010 cams on and wack it on

Cheers 👍

You can always rebuild the bent-valve head at your leisure with new valves and seats etc. while still using the bike with the "reliable ebay" head on it.

Quote from: Frankiechops on March 11, 2022, 03:46:05 AM
Yeah, it's the previous gen with the tach cable attachment. The input is all sealed up so it's essentially the same as my 2010. I've pulled it all apart and cleaned it up. I'll put it back together with the 2010 cams on and wack it on

Cheers 👍

Dude the cams and cam caps and head all wear together, swapping them is a risk I wont take. But someone here oughta have done it, and can post their result.
Cool.
Buddha.